Hi all

So my S&W 686 just started to give trouble. The cylinder release latch just "sticks" for a lack of a better word. It moves a bit and then it just refuses to go that last little bit to release the cylinder.

I've checked and as far as I can see the ejection rod is not bent. The ejection rod has also not walked out, I made sure of that.

I then thought it was some dirt that might have gotten between the bolt. Took of the side plate. Took everything out. Cleaned and lubed it. Took me a good 2 hours to put it all back again. And nothing changed. Still the same result.

What could possibly be the issue?

Had the same issue with a 586... check the spring loaded locking bolt that's in the barrel lug that the ejector rod end engages. See if it moves freely when pushed. Mine was so gunked up with gun oil and burnt powder residue that it wouldn't fully retract to release the ejector rod.

Look on the underside of the barrel lug, you'll see a "weep" hole, spray the heck out of it with a spray can gun cleaner with the tube nozzle attached, you will be surprised by what/how much comes flowing out.... sludge city.

Keep depressing the bolt (I used the eraser end of a pencil) and spraying cleaner into the hole/cavity until it frees up and moves freely.

Hopefully, this will help.

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Conrad
SWCA #1830 SWHF #222

Thanks, Gunhacker. Will give that a go tonight when I get home.
I'm really hoping that is the case.

I read the reply last night but it was 12am and then my internet connection failed. Anyway couldn't get into the safe last night. Didn't want to wake the wife. I'm wiser than that.

I had a similar issue with my 629-6. The ejector rod had "mushroomed" at the knurled end, where it engages the locking bolt, causing it to stick, when I tried to release the cylinder. My gunsmith removed the rod, and used a grinding wheel to get rid of the mushroom. It's much better, but still not perfect. Next step would be to replace the rod, he says.

I second checking out the locking lug at the front of the ejector rod. i just recently had a 629 that I had to free up there.

On another gun I had to remove a bur on the hole where the cylinder release bolt comes through the frame and engages the center pin.

Could also be due to the yoke being mis-aligned.....and it doesn't take much. This not only effects free rotation of the cylinder, but it puts the center pin in a bind in the breechface, and causes the thumbpiece to be difficult to push forward.

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

Thanks for all the responses. I'm finally sitting down with the revolver tonight to see what I can see and fix what I can fix based on your recommendations.

I'll update the thread if I got anywhere. Might be useful for the next guy.

OK, so it is about a month later and finally got down to doing the job. I sprayed a good amount of ballistic oil down that little "weep" hole and started to work that release.

At one stage I felt a bit of resistance and forced it and BOOM problem 95% solved. Rinsed and repeated and it's much better now. Well it is probably fixed but now:
1) I'm paranoid
2) my thumb is raw and maybe everything feels like it is too hard to press

I think for good measure I'm going to strip it down again, get the sonic cleaner out with the gun parts liquid and see if that weep hole will cry some more for me. I'm also going to strip down the cylinder assembly and pop that in there.

Give it all a good wipe and it is dry, oil it up and put it all back together again.

Thanks again for all the good advice. Appreciate it.

Another thing to consider is the tension exerted on the center pin by the center pin spring. In magnum caliber guns in particular, the spring is a bit heavier, which results in quite a bit more tension on the thumbpiece.

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer