So I was shooting a buddies 43c and my 63 snub. After only 2-3 cylinders the cases became impossible to eject . Any solutions to stop this ? I guess polishing the cylinder throats? I don't know! Any help would be appreciated.

My 1980's Model 34 is like that. Some brands/lots of ammo are better than others. Those guns come with a brush. Sometimes I have to brush every other cylinder-full (Aguila). WW ammo will go through an entire 100 pack without brushing.
Experiment-----and keep it brushed.

You probably don't want to touch the throats, but polishing the charge holes should help. You DO NOT want to remove any material or use anything aggressive. My simple method is to cut a Q-tip in half and chuck it in a Dremmel or low speed drill. I use Flitz polish.

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Chris
SWCA #2243 SWHF #292

I used Flitz also, but on a cleaning patch wrapped around bore swab or brush. Use in a cordless drill and slowly polish the chambers, always moving the tool in and out, not keeping in one place. This will normally help, but the final repair is to have the chambers reamed with a Standard Finishing reamer. This will not cut anything from the throats, just the chamber where the brass is. There will be no change in accuracy.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

Any gunsmith should be able to do this right ? Or is there a recconended S&W smith here on the board ?

I have used a wooden dowel slightly smaller than .22 and glue 320 or finer grit wet-dry around it. Then I hand turn it in each cylinder to the length of a shell case. Only a minute or so on each cylinder. Then I polish with a small cleaning patch with Mothers Mag polish (once again, I just hand turn it). I will then go to the range and assess. Repeat as necessary. It works and with my minimalist approach I have no fear of over-doing it.

Are you cleaning the cylinder after each range visit? I have a 1980 63 and never had a problem. I use mostly CCI or Federal ammo. Recently bought a 1970s Remington 572 pump 22lr. You could feel resistance when putting a new round in. I decided it must have a build up of lead. Several cleanings with a brush and Hoppes #9 original solvent and you wouldn't believe the black gunk that came out. Smooth now. I have gone back to original Hoppes solvent after trying some of the newer brands. I think it is a better cleaner. All we had back in the day. Tried and true.

We've been here several times lately..

What ammo are you using... I'd guess anything except Federal Brand..

Give some a try(Federal).. my revolvers all hate anything but Federal.

You can start by using Hoppe's and a bore brush and start scrubbing each cylinder.

In my experience, two out of three S&W .22 revolvers are like this. I've gotten used to it because it hasn't been that bad and I'm reluctant to enlarge anything. However, a competent gunsmith could probably fix the problem easily.

S&W has a history of tight .22 lr chambers in their revolvers. You need:

Manson Precision 513-051-220 22LR CYLINDER FINISHER REAMER.

Brownells keeps jacking up the price on these, but they do a great job. Do a search on this forum for more info.

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My sgntr is mor thn 30 chrctrs

In my experience, .22s from the 1950s and on into
maybe the early 1970s the manufacturers used a
slightly thicker casing, less expansion.

But by making the cases thinner, less expensive to
produce, they expand a little or a lot depending on
the chambers and gun to gun.

May not be true, but this is what I believe.

You don't want to stick anything abrasive in there especially dremel powered. The correct fix is a cleanup pass with a fresh finishing reamer lubed with some high sulfer cutting oil to true up the charge hole to SAMMI specifications. Done by hand BTW

This is a pretty common issue with mass produced rimfire revolvers. Worn tooling can result in slightly undersized chargeholes. Any defect in the tooling will be mirrored in the wall of the chargehole too with the same end result... sticky. Poor chip control when reaming can also lend to defects in the chargehole wall.

Chargeholes should not need any polishing after a proper cleanup pass with a good sharp reamer.

Do not mess with the cylinder throats, you can quickly ruin accuracy. Throats have no bearing on the brass, they serve simply to guide/align the bullet with and into the forcing cone.

Cheers
Bill

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Because they don't make a .46

So is this a pretty simple job if I buy the reamer?

I believe it, too. Try CCI before you do anything to the cylinder.

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Formerly Model520Fan

Well... A reamer and some cutting fluid and a 'T' handle such as a tap wrench to turn it, and a headspace gauge to verify your work from the same toolmaker as your reamer. Possess knowledge of how to use these tools. Judging the 'feel' of the tool when it's cutting/biting into the steel. Taking care to clear chips often and gauge the chargehole. If you cut too deep that chargehole probably won't fire. Take extra care when introducing the tool into the chamber and never turn it backwards, doing so will instantly dull the tool.

Cheers
Bill

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Because they don't make a .46

Photo of reamer.




Photo of reamer.

Before you buy and reamers or tools..........

Clean the weapon with a solvent and brass bore brush to remove
all the junk that may be causing the problem.
Lead and wax are the main problems and maybe some powder fowling but
these will be removed with a little work on your part and it will not
remove any metal from your weapon.

You will know when the weapon is clean, when a white cotton patch comes out.......
without any black or gray on it.

Now go shoot some ammo and see what happens.

I also find Aguila stickiest and Federal least sticky. Not that anything is actually getting stuck, but it is a rap to clear the Aguila and tilting the cylinder to clear the Federal. I find the Aguila to be more accurate in my 43c making it a more complicated choice.

I would be very reluctant to do anything more than Fitz on a qtip because its obviously an ammunition dependent rather than gun dependent variable. Aguila, Olin, CCI, Geco, Federal all seem to have different coe of friction/case expansion.

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Certified Curmudgeon

I would definitely start with the less aggressive methods of cleaning/polishing. If you don't get the results you want, consider the reaming tool. I have had excellent success reaming two K-22s from the 60's and 70's. I don't have the guts to touch the two I have in the 1937 and 1950 time slots.

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Some collect art; I shoot it!

Would you by chance be using bulk Winchester or Browning ammo (both made by Olin)?

Lately I have had some boxes (not all boxes) of that ammo sticking very bad, I couldn't push them out with my hand. This was in guns that never had sticking issues before. I quit using that ammo over a year ago.

Never had that issue with a ‘79 K22.
A really good clean.
Very light polish.
Clean and oil.
Test fire.

When I have this problem with my 617s & 63, I clean thoroughly using a NEW brass brush. When the patches are coming out clean, I run some lead-away patches through (cut to the size of 22 patches), let set for a few minutes, then run more cotton patches through. Works wonders. I'm always amazed at how much additional lead the lead-away patches will remove.

Is teaming the cylinders hard? I've never done it but I'm willing to buy that reamer from brownells!...

I believe forum member BMCM Custom does this type of work.

It is easy. I did all 5 of my K22s Read here
Reaming K22 cylinders

^^^^^
This is the "how to" if you decide to got this route

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Some collect art; I shoot it!

Could that reamer be used on autos?
Thx
Beretta Bobcats
Ruger MK IV.... we need one for fitting grips and might as well make it right.... based on some reports of triggers not crisp.... etc etc.

Sent our Blackhawk 45 Convertible to Ruger in ‘81 to replace a broken spring.... I asked the Smith if I lied and said it’s shaving a bit of lead would you make it great for us.
Worth making a brass grip frame for it so it looks as good as it shoots.

Shooting Art!
The NIB 1860 Army gets fired ASAP.... sits on the living room table.... it’ll smell nicer.
Thanks for the reminder.

I keep a .22 “Tornado” brush handy. When it starts to get sticky I makes one pass and I’m good for another two or 300 rounds.

This is what I've learned to do with mine. The lead wipe away cloths will clean out gook I/you never knew was there. No power tools, just a small patch, slotted tip, and a cleaning rod.

Follow up with a clean patch/dry patch with your favorite solvent. Repeat if necessary.

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John 3:16 .

Check out this thread, I hope you find it useful: .22 chamber reaming report

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NRA Certified Instructor & RSO

I've had the same problem with Aguila "Super Extra" 40 gr CPRN 1255fps spent brass sticking in my S&W 43C. I've had to bang on the ejection rod to get the brass out sometimes, they were stuck so tight.

Seems like high velocity brands that are closer to 1200fps work better.
Standard velocity even better.

But Aguila is the worst offender for spent brass sticking in my 43C.

My Model 18 was very bad , soaked the chambers with Hoppes9 and scrubbed with .25 Cal bore brush and CLP.

My 317 can get a little sticky after 100 rounds or so, but a good cleaning usually sorts it out.
But just thinking out loud...has anyone ever tried spraying the chambers with PAM or some kind of Teflon or silicone spray?

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Not US vet, no IDF option!

As a general rule lube in the chambers makes the sticking worse not better. Chambers should be completely dry of oil or solvent for best results

I did have one .22 round not eject from my Winchester pump rifle.

It was the American, 38 gr, CHP ammo.
I am thinking the rim was a little under sizes, for it to eject.

Nice tight group, but had to manually pull it, from the rifle.

This is what I still believe although I
have stopped shooting .22 altogether.

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Ubi Est Mea

I've experienced this on every S&W .22 LR revolver I've ever had.

I removed and cleaned the cylinders the best I could. Then sprayed the cylinder with Brake parts cleaners and let it evaporate.

Then I used a new .22 cleaning mop mounted on a and applied Semichrome paste to the mop and ran the mop in and out several times slowly through all charging holes at low rpm.

Made a couple passes and then rinsed the cylinder well with the BPC and cleaned thoroughly with standard solvent brushing and oiling.

After that the cylinder loaded and ejected much easier.

I must have lucked out. The only S&W .22 I’ve owned doesn’t have this problem. It’s a gem. 1952 or 3 CM

Purchased a reamer and fixed mine. Did several. Smith 22 are notorious for this. Most to the point they are not fun to use as is.

Buy a Korth, this problem never happens with them in .22.

Hmmm, maybe I'll grab a few of those.

I would try J B bore paste for the cylinder sticking.

If the OP is still experiencing sticky extraction after three years, he should just rent a reamer and fix the problem.


https://4drentals.com/

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“What you got, ain’t new.”

I leave a very light film of oil in the chamber.

Flex-Hone Rifle Chamber Hone 30-06 Springfield 12 400 Grit

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Plant garlic in the fall

I bought one for $50.

Keep cylinders dry. Oil can make a hydraulic effect. And before any reaming I would try a bunch of different ammo. My 17 hated some, others ejected like 007s car seat.

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Thirty characters. Exactly...

I have reamed all my 22 revolvers and can fire any ammo I want, box after box without cleaning and eject with light thumb pressure.

Life is to short to put up with a finicky 22

Earlier this year, I ordered directly from Mason Precision their 22 cylinder reamer and received in less than a week. To date, I have reamed the charge holes on my 22/32 Target model and 17-3. After reaming, both are a joy to shoot. Ammo is effortlessly loaded and emptied easily extracted. Interestingly, my K-22 shipped in 1953 did not require reaming.

I have lent the reamer to two other shooters for reaming of a k-22 and a Model 17 and they are equally pleased with the results. I highly recommend the Mason Precision reamer.