After putting 126 rounds thru my 3" 629 last weekend over a 2 hour period at a farm shoot, (half .44Specials, half full house .44 Magnums)... I'm having the damnedest time getting the soot marks off of the cylinder between the fluting near the cylinder face. I've tried cleaning them off 4 or 5 separate times now with little success. I guess it really doesn't bother me too much but I would hate for the cylinder to be permanently stained because it sticks out on the stainless steel, hahahaha! I've tried tooth brushes and CLP, M-Pro7, and Hoppes oils... I've never put more than 4-5 cylinders full in a session and had little trouble cleaning these spots with the method/oil before! Any suggestions would be welcomed! Thanks in advance!

-Ham

The 629 being stainless you can use a lead Away cleaning cloth. It will remove the stain and leave it looking new. The cloth can't be used on a blued pistol as it will remove the bluing..

Mothers mag wheel polish will work too

I second the Birchwood Casey lead away. Cut into small pieces and clean. Works great.

You can also use Flitz and the toothbrush.

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Terry Lester

Get yourself some Blue Magic (on Amazon). Put some on the cylinder face and with very little effort it will look like you never shot it. I use it after after shoot. Polishes the SS like a mirror, too.

I got myself an ultrasonic cleaning machine(Father's day coming up...easy to accidently drop the suggestion that it looks better than a red necktie!).Warm water(90*F)+ a little Dawn,10 minutes then swab the gun with a brass brush and the front of cylinder with a stainless brush(for blued guns,keep using the brass brush),for aprox 1 1/2 minute of elbow grease then 5 more minutes in the machine.
It works for my 629...or any other guns and is almost effortless.
WARNING:don't put any plated gun(chrome or other plating))in an ultrasonic machine.It'll do a good job of partially ''unplating''your prized object!

I have had very good results with Frog Lube.
Have to let it sit on the metal for about half an hour if the buildup is heavy and then a light stainless or brass brush finishes the job

You will go to the GS and pick up a bag of birchwood casey lead away.

You will think to yourself "these guys are crazy".

You will buy it, go home and rub the cloth on the cylinder thinking that it is not going to work.

5 seconds later. Mind..Blown.

Gently use it all over the gun. Avoid the laser etched SW logo if you have that version.

Admire the luster of your beautiful gun.

Sir,

It makes little if any difference, but just for clarification: you're not speaking of the face of the cylinder, but the outside of it just behind the face & between the flutes, correct?

I'm not sure why your method worked previously and not now. Did you use different ammo before? Regardless, I would suggest a BRONZE brush rather than a toothbrush. The much stiffer bristles of the bronze brush are much more aggressive than those of a toothbrush and should remove firing residue readily(This is my method and it has never failed to do the trick.). I'm not speaking here of a bronze bore brush, though you might get one to work in a pinch. What I'm speaking of is a bronze brush that looks almost exactly like a toothbrush, with its squared-off bristles. Local gunshops may not stock them; you may have to order them online from Midway or etc.

Oh, and any of the common gun solvents should work.

Regards,
Andy



P.S. The lead-removing cloths mentioned by previous posters are outstanding on stainless steel also of course; just a little more expensive than a bronze brush as I recall.

On my stainless and Nickel guns I use a Lead Away cloth. Just make sure you do not use it on a blued gun. It works great.

Flitz will work too.

I've discovered Bore Tech C4 carbon remover for myself - love that stuff - minimal scrubbing. Not sure if it's safe on blue but your 629 should be safe.

I'll have to try the Lead Away cloths. I've just been using Gun Scrubber and bronze wool. Seems to be working, but if I can just buy a specially treated cloth, that will basically wipe the soot away, then that sounds like an easier solution.

The cloth is treated and moist, and needs to stay moist to be effective. You can cut a strip off the cloth, and put the unused part back in the bag. After cleaning the soot with the strip, you can rewrap that in plastic, and reuse until it dries out.

Blued guns: Blue Magic Cleaner or Carbon Off (see the videos on YT)
Stainless and plated: Blue Magic Cleaner, Carbon Off, BC Cloths


Once you get it clean, coating it with Strike Hold will make soot easier to remove because it prevents the carbon from sticking to the metal. It bonds to the metal and forms a moisture barrier to prevent rusting.

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Guy
SWHF #474 SWCA LM#2629

I have found that "NEVERDULL" works great on mine. I used it in the Marines and it is now sold in auto stores under EAGLE 1. Have used Blue magic but this I find to be easier to use.

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ScotchBrite and Deisel fuel.

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Bob
Sic Semper Tyrannis

I don't shoot my M27 as much as I would like because I've always been afraid of ruining my blue finish trying to remove that build up between the cylinder flutes. Which "Blue Magic Cleaner" do you use to clean this off without hurting the finish. I went online but Blue Magic must make a dozen different cleaners.

I asked this very same question on another forum the other day about a non S&W stainless revolver. The answers were very similar to the ones posted here.

I haven't tried it, but someone else suggested white vinegar. BIG CAVEAT, however: according to them, this technique will be ruinous to any blued finishes. So if your gun has any blued surfaces, forget it. And I wouldn't use this method in the proximity of any other guns that have blued finishes. But it sounds like a very low cost way to care of the problem.

Blue Magic cleaner is the same used with Blue Magic gun blue. You can find it online and in many local gun stores. It will remove most anything including rust and not affect your Bluing.

Guy

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Guy
SWHF #474 SWCA LM#2629

The lead away cloth is cheap and works so much better than any of the other products, it's a no brainer.
If you have and shoot a 617, you know how dirty and high owb much lead gets around the forcing cone and top strap, I cut very small pieces of the cloth and work them in there with a dental pick.
I also clean inside the forcing cone on all my revolvers with small pieces on the end of chop stick, or wrapped around a large wooden qtip.

The leadcast bullets are coated with a moly spray. The little lead clean up is so easy now.

Carbon Off works.

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Guy
SWHF #474 SWCA LM#2629

I've been using Miracle Cloths for 30 years. They work well even when dark and filthy. Cut off the size you need. I even use it in the cylinder chambers. It's also very effective at removing bluing. I'm guessing it very similar to the Birchwood Casey Lear Remover cloth.

I like coconut oil and a Qtip on stainless to remove stains. BUT NEVER on blue guns. JIM FLYNN

I just purchased my first 629. I will pick up the Birchwood lead cloth but this is my favorite cleaning product of all: Kroil. It creeps like nothing else! I’ve use it to remove lead with just a tight fitting patch. Use your best product to clean carbon, etc. Once you are satisfied then run a patch soaked in Kroil.

Ed's Red Bore Cleaner , it's a DIY mix just google the name for the recipe, and a toothbrush. Spray some on and let it soak for a few minutes then spay again and scrub with the brush....takes it right off.
Everything you need to mix a gallon of Ed's Red can be bought at Wally Mart for under $20.00 . Good stuff !
Gary