Ever since I sold my beloved 8-3/8" blued 27-2 30 odd years ago I've wanted another. In a couple months my home will be paid off freeing up some cash so I'm finding the old itch returning. I see older 27s are bringing upwards of $1400.00. Bud's offers the 27 Classic for $885. How are the Classics? I'd like to find one locally to look over but so far I've had no luck. FWIW it's going to be used for informal paper punching and fondling.
Thanks

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I told you not to use Lifebuoy

The one's I've seen and owned were very nice. I had a M57 classic, and that had bank vault lock up on all 6 chambers. BC gap was perfect, finish was excellent.

I've been thinking about getting a M27 classic with the 4 inch. If they were to come out with the M27 classic with the 3.5 inch, I'd buy two of them!!

Hi Acorn,

If you're ok with the new production classic models, it should be great.
A lot of folks don't care for the thinner wood grips or the trigger lock system. They pretty much shoot the same, but the older models command more because of the workmanship of the past.

With Buds. you should research a little and keep an eye on the current prices almost daily. The've had a lot of wild price swings lately. The 629 dropped to 708 and then leaped up to 784 in a few days. (S&W #163606)

I do not own any of the newer "classics" from S&W but I do own newer stainless steel revolvers from S&W. As far as shooting pleasure (i.e. quality of function and shooting accuracy) I like them as well as vintage S&W revolvers, so I would imagine the new "classics" are just as good.

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Scoundrel & Ne'er-Do-Well

Since you had a nice model 27 years and years ago when they used the old process blue finish, I think it will be harder for you to accept the new production models. You didn't say whether you prefer the 8 3/8 barrel over a 6 1/2" barrel or not, but if you do want a long tom you will have to go with an older gun. Also, I find the newer style top strap checkering looks like poo as compared to the older style used on your old -2 gun you sold.

I personally rather the older guns, pre-MIM, when they used the forged triggers and hammers and button rifled barrels on my model 27's. But that is just me, and on other models those features don't bother me; just the classic models such as the 27.

I’ve fondled a few of the 27 Classics, the most recent was last Tuesday. The goofy lock notwithstanding, the poor attempt at checkering the top strap and barrel rib is laughable; however I am sure the mechanics are solid.

Thanks all. I was unaware of the half arsed checkering on the Classics. My old 27 was a thing of beauty. I know comparing the two may an apples and oranges thing but I am coming to realise that I have filet mignon tastes but hamburger income.

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I told you not to use Lifebuoy

I can't comment on the comparison to older N frames, but my M29 Classic is a brilliant pistol. Shoots great, and has a very nice trigger. I did swap out the grips, but that's a personal preference and others love that grip.

That said, if you watch the classifieds here I'm pretty sure you can get a shooter M27-2 or -3 for under $1000, maybe well under. You just have to be patient.

I think I'd hold off on buying a classic and watch Gunbroker to find a 27-2 or 27. Sure its going to cost you more but in the end you have to be satisfied with your purchase. For me I don't get attached to the newer guns. but the older guns just have that FEEL. Better triggers, bluing, metal fitup and wood

I think of the ‘classic’ series as a completely different bunch of guns than their namesakes.

Smith can name their products whatever they please, but the ‘classic’ model 27 has little in common with the real model 27 other than caliber and large frame (not identical frame: compare them side by side).

The ‘classic’ series are all functional firearms, but they are not reproductions of the originals.

That is totally wrong, about you can't smooth out MIM. Or "breaking through" a thin hard layer. MIM isn't like sintered parts such as Colt used in the Lawman revolvers. Sintered parts are exactly like you are attributing to MIM, but it is a totally different process to make a MIM part and MIM pretty much is the same hardness all the way through, from what I understand about the process. They also use MIM parts in turbofan aircraft engines too, BTW.

Now as far as looks go, MIM doesn't look nearly as good as the forged triggers and hammers that were used in the past.

@ACORN, BTW, if you want to have the looks of the older model 27's at a better price point, don't turn your nose up at a -3 to -5 model either. You won't have a recessed cylinder or pinned barrel, but you will still have forged internals and the old style top strap checkering. I have a 6 1/2" 27-5 and it looks pretty good and more importantly, shoots real good too.

I just ordered a Classic 27 in 6.5" barrel. I will pick it up Monday or Tuesday.

I spent alot of time looking at older 27s (27-3 and 27-4s) at a LGS. These were 6" and 8 3/8" barrels. All were in good to nice condition but they all priced over $1200. They also had the 27 Classic in 6.5". While the Classic was not as nicely made as the older ones, it was pretty good to me.

In the end I decided on the Classic 27. I will provide some feedback when I pick it up. I have a 29-3 that I can compare it too for workmanship, trigger, etc.

That will be interesting to read, zogger52. As for pricing on the newer old guns, I picked up my 27-5 off GB about 4 years ago for $700 and when I received it I found it had never been shot except for the factory test rounds. The guy who posted it for sale only included about 4 pretty fuzzy pictures in the auction, which I am sure kept more folks away from bidding on it. I took a chance and ended up getting a much nicer gun than I thought I was going to receive.

Wow , here in Indiana I doubt I could sell my 8 3/8" 27-3 for half that price.

I’m not opposed to a 27-whatever. I just had a -2 and it just exuded class. If I found a 8-3/8” in excellent shape I’d buy it if I had the $$$

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I told you not to use Lifebuoy

Look on GunBroker then. You might run across a long tom 27-2 for not much more than a new Classic. They are out there, you just have to look.

ACORN:
I can't think of a finer Revolver to lust after, than the original S&W Mod. 27, in it's many bbl. length offerings. If you want the "Real Thing", buy one of the older blued versions, and you'll surely be happy with it , as you were with your beloved revolver of 30 odd years ago. I have in my meager collection, a 8 3/8",a 6", and a 3 1/2". Here's a picture of the one I have, of the size that you had 30 odd years ago. Go for it, any one of 'em will cover the Shooting, or fondling.
Chubbo

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The part that gets me is that the guy that bought it asked me if I wanted to buy it back. I told him each time he asked, I would, but then he’d hesitate and said he’d let me know. A few months later he’d repeat the whole process. Until he died.

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I told you not to use Lifebuoy

Would love to see a range report Zogger..

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NRA Benefactor

I have a 25-15. It is a favorite of mine. Yes, the stocks that came on it had to go. Went to older targets. Now has Herrett targets on it. (came off my 28) Bob

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I have had a 4" nickel 27 Classic for many years now. I like itIt shoots great and has better nickel on it than my older Model 27s. Plus I like the look of the new 4 screw frames
On the average MIM actions are smoother out of the box than the older actions. They are also much faster to work on when doing a trigger job since the parts are so much closer in tolerances with the MIM process.

It is true that the checkering is not as pretty, but I can live with that

I just brought home my 27-9 Classic 6.5". I will post some pixs later. Some initial impressions (as compared to my 29-3 and 18-2):

-The color is more a black blue than the blued older revolvers. Once I shine it up real good I will post side by side pixs.
-It has the lock
-It has the frame mounted firing pin
-The trigger is a bit rough compared to the older 29 and 18 but after I put 500 rounds thru it we will see if it smooths out.
-The trigger poundage appears to be comparable to my older guns. I don't have a gauge to give you an exact reading
-I like the grips! I had planned to a nice set of old targets on it but now I think I will stay with the grips on it. They are all wood and slimmer than the older targets so they fit better in my small hands. They are almost like the new Altamont "coke bottle" grips (which I have a set on my K frame) but not exactly coke bottle shaped.

Hopefully I will get to the range tomorrow to try it out.

To add:
MIMs ARE through-hardened, no case-hardening used, no thin layer to break through.

Miculek told me MIM parts are easier to do an action job on (we didn't get the time to discuss in detail why), a Smith Custom Shop guy told me he didn't consider MIMs equal to forged/machined, and my Smith-certified gunsmith says he can't get quite the same action job out of MIMs, doesn't like 'em.

You make up your own mind.
I think I'd rather pay for an older "real thing" in a classic format, myself.
Denis

Fixed it for you. A lot of people have either forgot or choose to ignore the Bangor-Punta years from 1965 to 1985 and the myriad of complaints folks back then had.

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So many S&W's, so few funds!!

I own both newer and older classics I’m happy with both. Let’s not forget the older classics the actions are fitted properly. The newer classics we get to wear them in. No problem, no complaints here. I get to fondle them more to wear in the action. No problem.

The newer parts are machined to closer tolerances. Very little honing, filing, fitting to smooth them out.

Not necessarily.
The newer MIMs come out of the molds to more UNIFORM tolerances, allowing less hand-fitting, but that doesn't absolutely mean CLOSER tolerances either out of the mold or during any final machining to end size.

A hand-fit action will tend to have closer tolerances because the parts were typically mated more or less precisely to each other.

MIMs are designed to be largely "drop-in", and that can actually involve somewhat looser tolerances, to assemble with a minimum of fitting.
Denis

My experience in rebuilding high round count 1911s is that MIM parts don't last as long as those made from machined forgings. In the MIM world all parts aren't created equal and some are definitely better than others. Colt and FN parts are considerably harder than Springfields, which are quite a bit better than Taurus and the like. Take two parts made for the same use, but one's forged and the other's MIM, shoot them to destruction and the forged part will outlast the MIM every time. However, for most end users this is really an academic exercise as they'll never put enough rounds through their guns for it to matter. If replacement is necessary, the MIM parts are easier to replace and obtain than out of production forged parts.

The thing about comparing trigger jobs using the two isn't that you can't smooth and lighten MIM parts, but that they typically won't last. With the 1911, you can get that nice light trigger that breaks like a glass rod with MIM parts, but it won't last. The engagement surfaces won't retain their sharpness like a forged part. As for revolvers I can't say, since I've yet to work on one with MIM parts. Things may be different due to the interaction of the parts.


For myself, I prefer forged parts but will live with MIM if it's the only choice. I remember when investment casting was Satan's red headed stepchild and was going to ruin the gun industry. Now I read things comparing the quality of cast parts compared to MIM. Time marches on. It's also really a straw man argument to use the use of MIM in industries like aerospace and automotive to justify it's use in firearms. Parts in those industries go through checks and balances that parts in the firearms world have never seen.


I can live with MIM if I have to.

Much of what is said about MIM parts is speculation. I have a Kimber Gold Classic that has Lord only knows how many tens of thousands of rounds fired. Completely wore out the barrel bushing (not MIM) and replaced it with a Briley. The gun is going strong, shoots 1" groups at 25 yards using the Ransom Rest (with the original barrel), and the MIM parts are showing no sign of incipient failure.

Observing parts durability and failure over a range of types for more than two decades isn't speculation, it's observable and quantifiable fact. Dismissing such experience because your sample of one, of a brand that's well known to have sub par quality small parts, has somehow held together happens to be gross assumption.

I posted my impressions of my new Classic 27 in another thread as this one has gone astray.

Classic 27 1st Impressions

If this thread continues down the path of discussion, A.K.A. whining about MIM parts and locks, infractions will be issued to the appropriate parties and the thread closed.

For those who have failed to read the stickies at the top of this section, I strongly suggest you read this one:

Bashing, Crying, & Whining

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So many S&W's, so few funds!!

I have some vintage S&W firearms and some new production models. I like them both and the lock is not an issue for me if I want the gun though I prefer that it were not there for simplicity purposes. I have not had quality issues. but others have. The vast majority of Smiths are still issued without problems, but from what I have seen on this forum an increasing small number seem to be escaping the factory with various problems and needing to be sent back for warranty work.

I own an 8 3/8" M27-5. It still has the checkered topstrap, hi-gloss deep blue finish, forged steel parts, and no lock. I guess the big difference is whether it's going to be shot or bragged about.

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Ok enough, I purchased a new classic m58 and m57. Both had different feeling actions and triggers. One was tougher than the other. I pulled the side plate on the rough one and lubed all the metal to metal contact moving parts with moly. I lubed the one that was smoother too. Now both guns feel the same.

I like my actions to have the same feel. This way when I switch guns I know there the same feel action and trigger let off.

Are these the new Altimont "Cokes".

If so, and you dislike them enough to want to get rid of 'em cheap, just let me know, I'd be very interested...
Heck, who am I kidding? I'd be interested in them even if they aren't "New Cokes".