Hello Forum,

As title says, I'm looking for some opinions on "older" Model 66 say thru dash 5 vs. the Model 66-8.

Reason? I do better with adjustable sights. Model 10-5 (1972) vs. Model 15-3 (1969), Model 14-3 (1977), even Model 34-1 (1972), the adjustable sights just get me better results. Don't get me wrong...I really like my Model 65-3 (1986) and it gets more than fair share of range time when I'm wanting 357 Magnum action, but leave the N frames at home.

So when I saw a Model 66 for sale at 7 Benjamins and I can usually dicker well at this LGS I thought "let's go take a look".

Turns out to be LNIB Model 66-8, Internal Lock (no deal breaker for me), MIM trigger and hammer, 2 piece barrel, S&W logo rubber grips, plastic original box, all docs. I gotta say....that the trigger absolutely stinks IMHO, massive trigger pull vs ANY of my above revolvers, felt almost "military 2 stage" with lots of creep. Cylinder release also didn't feel clean and crisp like my other Smiths, felt like slight binding. Recoil shields were clean so looked like very little round count. S/N placed it about 2014/2015.

Anyway....long story short...I didn't even start the negotiation process as this particular gun just said NO to me, so thanked the manager for his time in digging up the box and all but left without a second thought.

I don't have any other "late model" Smiths with MIM triggers, hammers and what all else internals, and I have not done any research on this 2 piece barrel manufacturing method so here's why I asking for some opinions of those of you that may have these "late models" as to what you think:

Basically, are they worth it? Certainly not as collectible, or investment but as good shooters, or does this MIM stuff supposedly make the action tighter tolerance, cleaner or the opposite? Do the 2 piece barrel cause you concern, if so, why?
The rubber factory grips felt mushy to me, but maybe I just like the stiffness of wood.

It seems a brand new one has a retail of around $750 to $ 800, but I see the older dashes seem to be in the $850 to $950 used, so I'm thinking to get my adjustable sight version I may do better to keep looking for the older dashes and skip the modern one all together.

As always..your opinions are truly valued by me because I want this to shoot better than my 65 just like I pair up my other 4", only in 357 Mag.

Thanks in advance for any replies.

Attached Images

	65-3b.jpg (38.0 KB, 102 views)
	M 10-5 right side.jpg (37.8 KB, 98 views)
	Mod 15-3 -B.jpg (48.8 KB, 95 views)
	M 14-3 e.jpg (35.2 KB, 96 views)
	M 34-1b reduced.jpg (37.0 KB, 92 views)

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Charlie B
SWCA#3083, SWHF#570

Despite what some of the diehard "older is better" crowd might feel, the newer ones are stronger, more accurate and have a better lock up method. MIM is a non-issue, two piece barrel is a non-issue. The new grips are not as mushy as the old Hogues but if you're use to wood they will definitely feel squishy. Trigger will be heavy at first, but it's no different than the older guns before they had the benefit of being shot for decades. If you want something to shoot a lot or carry, buy the new one. If you want something to collect get the older ones.

Charlie-I think you’ll find on this Forum nearly 100% of the responders would say you have a nice selection of K-frame guns to shoot so why break to a new one. If you are looking for a gun to keep in your car maybe a new one should be the one that gets knocked around, wet, or even stolen. But for taking one to the range, nothing is better than the older ones. Just my opinion......

I agree. If I just wanted a gun to shoot, I'd just get one of the new models. I could just walk in a pick one out of the stack at my dealers. I wouldn't have to look around for one. I'm one of those somewhat rare, apparently, old timers who just can't get all worked up over the lock, MIM parts, two piece barrels and such. It's just another gun and one I'd buy.

While I haven't bought a new 66, but I do have a Model 69 (great gun) and I've got one one the new "Classic" 19's on layaway which is the 66 in blue steel rather than stainless. I paid about the same for the NIB 19 as I did for an (apparently) unfired 66-1, in a presentation case, etc. a few months ago so I didn't see any difference in the price really.

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John 3:16 .

I think that if this were to become a poll, the vote would be highly in favor of the older guns. Now before a moderator hits his "banned" key, that's not to say that newer guns aren't good. It's just the fact that they don't have the value appreciation potential of the older ones.

Ed

As far as a .38/.357 K/L right out of the box set up ready to go for range/IDPA, the Model 686 SSR is the smoothest action I've felt lately, and the front sight is the quick-change type to suit your preference.
About $800 at Buds.
As far as something to appreciate in value, that's not my area of interest or expertise.

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Science plus Art

As long as I can still buy original classic S&W's for less than a new MIM, Hillary lock, two piece barrel model, I will.

Why buy a gun that is basically a copy of an original classic. I will never own a new S&W revolver when there are so many pre-owned (I still believe higher quality) examples to be had at comparatively bargain prices.

As far as worrying about being damaged, lost or stolen, I own a couple of old model 10's I picked up for about $200.00 a piece. In my opinion, they make a much better "truck gun" than a new $700+ S&W.

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Free advice is worth the price

Yup, I absolutely agree with the model 10 truck-gun option. With the older ones costing $300.00 or under depending on condition, you're saving big bucks and you can shoot Plus P's.

But for your purposes, preferring adjustable sights, you'll need to look at the model 15 which will command a higher price.

Here is one I just sold yesterday, a M66-2 no box papers or original grips, just a very beautiful clean .357 for $575. I don't know why I purchased it as I have no interest in the .357 caliber, just habit I suppose.

Attached Images

	S&W M66-2 .357 4 inch SN#AED7349 1984 002.jpg (70.6 KB, 87 views)
	S&W M66-2 .357 4 inch SN#AED7349 1984 005.jpg (77.0 KB, 70 views)
	S&W M66-2 .357 4 inch SN#AED7349 1984 009.jpg (77.7 KB, 75 views)
	S&W M66-2 .357 4 inch SN#AED7349 1984 015.jpg (67.8 KB, 72 views)

When I did a side-by-side shoot-out between a minty 66-4 & a new 66-8, both snubs, last year, the new slightly outshot the old in terms of accuracy.

I did not like the all-black sights on the new, I do not trust the two-piece barrels personally (seen photos of them breaking at both ends), the older one had a better trigger, and I could break the new one out of its front lockup by pushing the cylinder sideways, while I couldn't budge the older one out of its conventional lockup at all.

The new one had a much tighter lockup in battery, but it also had almost no forcing cone at all.

My preference, even beyond the MIMs & locks, remains with the older Smith revolvers.

I did not keep the new 66 snub.
I found an unfired NIB older 66 snub instead.

I carry their new pistols, and like 'em.
The new revolvers, not so much.
Denis

Hello Forum;
Thanks to all who replied with their experiences (good, bad, neutral). I've decided to not spend the money on a "modern" Model 66. Rather I'll spend the money on ammo to shoot in those fixed sight Models that I do enjoy and see if I can get closer to the groups I shoot with adjustable sights.

Collecting or more closer for me, accumulating is fun, but "funner for me" is shooting the Smith & Wesson revo's and that is what they were all made for.

So.........weather looks good for some long gun time accompanied today maybe with Model 10, and/or Model 65 and see if those M1 Garand holes can be "enlarged" by either handgun

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Charlie B
SWCA#3083, SWHF#570

I wasn't looking for any of the nice older Smiths I have in the vault.
I'm not a collector.

I'm an appreciator.
The classics I have were all accidental finds that jumped out at me somewhere along the way & couldn't be ignored.

The Smith I've had the longest is the humble 64 I was issued in 1980 & bought when my PD transitioned to Glocks in '88.
The most recent classic Smith acquisition is the 1916 Triple Lock an old cohort wanted to sell out of the blue last year.

You might shoot what you have, hang out at gunshops & gunshows, and see if something there speaks to you.

One additional factor to keep in mind is that most gunsmiths can't do barrel work on the new two-piecers, if needed. The factory doesn't sell the removal tool.
Denis

For a shooter I would take a new 66.
Unless a really good deal (say $200) on a almost nearly new 66 presented itself.
Gary

The new ones are just as good as shooters, and will probably be "collectible" soon enough.

I would choose “older” because I like the aesthetics. I don’t care for the chubbier barrel shroud that is part and parcel with the two-piece barrel, not to mention P&R versions.

I like both

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But then, what do I know?

Mim components doesn't bother me. I own a 60-12 that has Mim parts, but does not have the lock. The other Mim revolver that I owned was a new 686. Lock-up was tight and it had a very nice action. I do prefer the contour of the frame on the older models. I could be happy with either.

I would go with the older if it was less money. They will out appreciate the newer ones. For my shooting, the new may have tighter tolerances, etc. but I will guarantee you I wouldn’t be able to tell the difference in accuracy.
MIM does not bother me as my 60-10 is one of my favorites in a growing herd of SS Smiths. It is a solid little gun and shoots as straight as any of the rest....... well except maybe the 629-4.
If you ain’t into searching, buy the newer one. They’re everywhere. The older ones? Not so much

Older is always better

Turning to revolvers, I own three lock/MIM models. One is a 325 PD, which is the second smoothest revolver I've ever owned (first is a competition tuned 24-3).

The other two are 66s: a -6 and a -7. The actions clean up as well or better as any forged-parts gun, including a 66-3. The -6 is my IDPA gun which I smoothed up and ground just a hair from the sides of the main spring. Very nice DA action.

It's probably good you passed on that particular specimen if it felt that rough. On the other hand, the -8 has the newer forcing cone without the cut at the bottom and will probably hold up better to magnum loads.

I'm currently shooting a newer 66-8 4.25". All I did is swap out the rebound slide spring for a softer one and tuned the strain screw.
It pretty much shoots as good or better(in some cases) as my 986pro with alot more work done to it. So, the way i look at it- a 700 dollar gun that runs toe to toe with a pro gun is remarkable in itself. Maybe you wont be convinced- that's fine. But these new guns are very accurate and can be tuned for a better DA pull. Also no force cone problems and no need for ammo restrictions.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Looking at your guns .... takes me in another direction.

IMO the best all around/utility/duty .357 is a 4" 686....... grip frame and trigger reach of a K frame and strength of a N-frame.

designed from the ground up in the late 1970s to shoot the hottest .357 ammo all day every day! but will also handle everything from shotshells, wadcutters to any .38 special.

Some say the -4s are the best but again IMO any "dash" is good to go!!!