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08-10-2018, 04:26 PM
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Got my new Model 69 back.....but
Checked the main issue it was sent in for....Barrel/Cylinder gap and the best they could do with a new Barrel install was .011 on the left side and .005 on the right.
Guess they have trouble getting a square cut!
Well will see how it shoots but I wouldn't purchase another new S&W for the price they ask for!
My 629-2E is a nice .006 both sides.
Price on my pair of old Smiths just went up another 200 bucks!
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08-10-2018, 04:34 PM
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Mine is .007 on both sides, all six cylinders. I'd consider yours unacceptable and send it back - again.
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08-10-2018, 04:34 PM
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Feel your frustration.
This was my new 21-4.
Widest areas were .025"
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08-10-2018, 05:14 PM
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Mine is between 0.0025 and 0.003 all five charge holes.
Perfect.
Last edited by shocker; 08-10-2018 at 05:16 PM.
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08-10-2018, 05:17 PM
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The chamber throats are a bit tighter than I like at .4295 my selection of bullets I have won't slip in like all my other .44's so I will hone them out a bit to .431 which is what my others are.
I will just shoot it after getting the throats right and see how it does.
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08-10-2018, 05:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shocker
Mine is between 0.0025 and 0.003 all five charge holes.
Perfect.
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Lucky man you are! None of my revolvers are that tight.
Check those feeler gauges as sometimes the thin ones like to stick together!! j/k
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08-10-2018, 06:55 PM
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On second thought I will call them Monday and DEMAND another new M69.
I gave them a chance to fix it correctly and why should I be without my NEW revolver for another month after forking over 700+ bucks to try again?
I want to be like you guys with a nice tight new M-69 the first time around!!
Last edited by fortyshooter; 08-10-2018 at 06:57 PM.
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08-10-2018, 08:10 PM
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I assume the back of the forcing is still hand filed to complete the barrel to cylinder gap, no? Is this really such a challenging task?
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08-10-2018, 08:52 PM
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Even sawing off the forcing cone with a band saw should be straighter than 6 thousands off on one side.
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08-10-2018, 08:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bronco45
Even sawing off the forcing cone with a band saw should be straighter than 6 thousands off on one side.
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Not if your blade is dull and or the blade guides are on the loose side.
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08-10-2018, 09:05 PM
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How does it shoot?
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Some collect art; I shoot it!
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08-10-2018, 09:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peak53
How does it shoot?
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I fired 10 rounds through it the first time I got it and knew something was not right with cylinder gap....lots of blow by and getting peppered with residue.
It did seem to shoot where I was aiming but it was having some trigger hang ups too.
Weather is a bit iffy for weekend shooting this time but even so do I WANT a new 700 buck gun that has a big gap on one side?
If I were to sell it later would YOU buy it with a gap like that at the full resale value of a used gun?
Another thing I have noticed on this revolver the cylinder hasn't hardly settled in to lock up before the hammer falls....it is VERY close almost looking like it is still rotating as the hammer starts to fall.
My other revolvers Smith,Ruger and Charter Arms there is a definite cylinder locked in period before the hammer is released.
What happens after some wear occurs?
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08-10-2018, 09:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PHS327
Mine is .007 on both sides, all six cylinders. I'd consider yours unacceptable and send it back - again.
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I meant 5 cylinders. All my other guns are six shooters except my single shot.
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08-10-2018, 09:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fortyshooter
Checked the main issue it was sent in for....Barrel/Cylinder gap and the best they could do with a new Barrel install was .011 on the left side and .005 on the right.
Guess they have trouble getting a square cut!
Well will see how it shoots but I wouldn't purchase another new S&W for the price they ask for!
My 629-2E is a nice .006 both sides.
Price on my pair of old Smiths just went up another 200 bucks!
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Brings new meaning to the term "Kit gun"!
Some assembly required.
Tools needed; Metal lathe, milling machine, drill press....
For experienced builders only.
Best,
Rick
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08-10-2018, 10:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riverrat38
Brings new meaning to the term "Kit gun"!
Some assembly required.
Tools needed; Metal lathe, milling machine, drill press....
For experienced builders only.
Best,
Rick
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I was thinking the same thing and sell them at a lower price!
Also I have all the equipment you mentioned plus 40 yrs. of Tool&Die work.
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08-10-2018, 11:08 PM
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I understand your frustration. However, I don't know that I would DEMAND anything. People tend to tune out those who demand, no matter how correct they may be. Your B/C gap is X on one side and Y on the other and it is spitting lead. That would seem to cover it. Ask what they would recommend. Should it be returned again for service or would a new gun be indicated? Offer suggestions. YMMV
Kaaskop49
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08-10-2018, 11:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaaskop49
I understand your frustration. However, I don't know that I would DEMAND anything. People tend to tune out those who demand, no matter how correct they may be. Your B/C gap is X on one side and Y on the other and it is spitting lead. That would seem to cover it. Ask what they would recommend. Should it be returned again for service or would a new gun be indicated? Offer suggestions. YMMV
Kaaskop49
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Thanks for that tip!
Dear Sirs...
For the money paid I will give you fine folks a 3rd chance to supply me with a replacement NEW M-69 that can meet or exceed Charter Arms Company standards of quality!
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08-11-2018, 12:14 AM
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Guys, the days of wine and roses are gone.
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08-11-2018, 08:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaaskop49
I understand your frustration. However, I don't know that I would DEMAND anything. People tend to tune out those who demand, no matter how correct they may be. Your B/C gap is X on one side and Y on the other and it is spitting lead. That would seem to cover it. Ask what they would recommend. Should it be returned again for service or would a new gun be indicated? Offer suggestions. YMMV
Kaaskop49
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I think I would have been out of courtesy after S&Ws second failed attempt at getting the gun right.
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08-11-2018, 08:43 AM
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Not beating a dead horse but looking for comparison..M-69
For those that have one...When you pull the trigger in DA mode does your cylinder lock up and settle in for a period of time with a nice click before the hammer starts to fall?
My other Smiths and brands of DA revolvers do but my M-69 is right on the ragged edge of still moving to lock up as the hammer is falling. However the chambers are lined up perfectly with hammer down.
Just looking to see what yours are like. I need to make note of this info before this gun goes back for replacement or repair.
Last edited by fortyshooter; 08-11-2018 at 08:45 AM.
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08-11-2018, 09:28 AM
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Are you putting empty cases in the cylinder before doing this carry up test?
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08-11-2018, 09:35 AM
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No and I didn't do it with the other revolvers when I was comparing. But I will try it with empties that are stuffed to same weight as loaded ammo.
Looking at the weather down at my range area which is 30 miles away and just might run down there and shoot the **** out of it...rain be damned!!
I really like the M69 size,feel and .44 Mag capability...just got to get these build quality issues straight which SHOULD be the easy part. The trigger action is really nice!
Last edited by fortyshooter; 08-11-2018 at 09:38 AM.
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08-11-2018, 11:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fortyshooter
Checked the main issue it was sent in for....Barrel/Cylinder gap and the best they could do with a new Barrel install was .011 on the left side and .005 on the right.
Guess they have trouble getting a square cut!
Well will see how it shoots but I wouldn't purchase another new S&W for the price they ask for!
My 629-2E is a nice .006 both sides.
Price on my pair of old Smiths just went up another 200 bucks!
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I bet it is a near perfect .006 on the 629-2E... That Revo was made during a time when there was much more focus on craftsmanship and hand fitting and tolerances. Comparing that baby to a 629-6 or so... well... I won't do it because it isn't really fair to the finer points the art of gun-making.
I'm keeping my current Smiths because I have fixed/modified them to be 100% but I won't be buying anything else unless it's vintage early 80's and earlier Smiths and Colts.
I have a current production M625 and a M629. Both are lacking in the fit and finish and QA/QC department when compared to my Lew Horton Special M29 and 70's production "J" frames. Both the M625 and the M629 had nearly every screw back out of them before the first 200 factory loaded rounds; i.e. the cylinder release screws, yoke, side-plate, & strain screws backed out considerably under recoil of factory loaded ammo.
The cylinder release and strain screws backed out enough in both to cause cylinder release malfunctions and light strikes. Both were easily remedied (by me) with a thorough disassembly & cleaning of the revo's themselves &
every screw mentioned, their respective holes/threads and then reinstalled with the proper drivers and 2 dabs of Purple Loc-Tite; then torqued down to two hairs past snug. None of the aforementioned screws have ever backed out since even with Buffalo Bore 255 grain .45Supers and 300 grain Hard Cast Underwood's... and a couple thousand, (non-boutique), full house factory loads thru each Revo.
The screw back outs is something that has never happened in my 70's and 80's made Smiths and Colt Agent. Light strikes could happen at the worst time. It's not something you expect to happen in an $800+ revolver. So with new Smith's, if you are going to put more than 500 rounds thru them and not leave em' stuffed in a sock drawer... then we need to be proactive and able to maintain them.
This has been my experience with current production Smith Revo's and of course YMMV...
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08-11-2018, 12:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fortyshooter
For those that have one...When you pull the trigger in DA mode does your cylinder lock up and settle in for a period of time with a nice click before the hammer starts to fall?
My other Smiths and brands of DA revolvers do but my M-69 is right on the ragged edge of still moving to lock up as the hammer is falling. However the chambers are lined up perfectly with hammer down.
Just looking to see what yours are like. I need to make note of this info before this gun goes back for replacement or repair.
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Mine seems OK in that respect. I'd do a video but I don't really have a place to upload it to or the bandwidth for practical video uploads. Comparing it to my 629-4, the hammer on the 629 travels a good deal farther back after cylinder lock-up before hammer drop as compared to my 69. They are very different guns though so I doubt that's a valid comparison.
Last edited by oink; 08-11-2018 at 12:48 PM.
Reason: Typo
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08-11-2018, 01:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fortyshooter
For those that have one...When you pull the trigger in DA mode does your cylinder lock up and settle in for a period of time with a nice click before the hammer starts to fall?
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Answer: No
I don't have an N-frame but I checked my J-frame 8 shot. Cylinder lock up occurs while the hammer is still moving to full cock. With five charge holes the cylinder has to spin 72 degrees vs. 60 for a six shot. Perhaps all the 5 shot Smiths are like the 69.
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08-11-2018, 02:06 PM
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Well, comparing to my model 60 no dash, the 60 seems in
between the 69 and the 629. I'm thinking the only valid comparison is with another model 69.
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08-11-2018, 03:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fortyshooter
For those that have one...When you pull the trigger in DA mode does your cylinder lock up and settle in for a period of time with a nice click before the hammer starts to fall?
My other Smiths and brands of DA revolvers do but my M-69 is right on the ragged edge of still moving to lock up as the hammer is falling. However the chambers are lined up perfectly with hammer down.
Just looking to see what yours are like. I need to make note of this info before this gun goes back for replacement or repair.
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I just tried my 69 as you asked but with an empty cylinder. It does look up just before the hammer falls. My 5 shot 642 cylinder locks up a little quicker than the 69. Those are the only 5 shot Smiths I have
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08-20-2018, 08:56 PM
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A little late here but I just found my feeler gauge.
19-4 = .009 to .011
629-1 = .009 to .011
686-NO = smallest gauge is .006-.008 and it almost fits.
629-4 = .009 to .011 one side tighter than other but same gauge.
69 = .006 to .008 The .007/.009 thinks about fitting on left.
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08-20-2018, 09:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oink
A little late here but I just found my feeler gauge.
19-4 = .009 to .011
629-1 = .009 to .011
686-NO = smallest gauge is .006-.008 and it almost fits.
629-4 = .009 to .011 one side tighter than other but same gauge.
69 = .006 to .008 The .007/.009 thinks about fitting on left.
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Thanks for checking!
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08-20-2018, 09:48 PM
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Hah, did the same today, checked about half dozen of mine,
Model 36 no dash .007
Model 36-6 .009
Model 64-4 .010
Model 686-6 .011
Model 327PC .008
Model 629-6 PC V-Comp, the best of the bunch .005 slightly tighter on one side. This gun’s date on the box end label was May of 2018 so I’d say it’s a fairly recent build.
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08-21-2018, 01:26 AM
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I only have one revolver and just got it after a 48 year lack of having one ..
Its a 686+ PC and space between barrel/chamber measures between .0035 and .004 .. The .0035 fits through on all the chambers but the .004 won't go through on any of them ..
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08-21-2018, 02:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amazingflapjack
Guys, the days of wine and roses are gone.
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Well, the roses, anyway.
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08-21-2018, 03:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SLT223
I assume the back of the forcing is still hand filed to complete the barrel to cylinder gap, no? Is this really such a challenging task?
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...it should be done in a lathe...
...that will make it perpendicular to the barrel axis...
...and even all the way around...
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08-21-2018, 04:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fortyshooter
For those that have one...When you pull the trigger in DA mode does your cylinder lock up and settle in for a period of time with a nice click before the hammer starts to fall?
My other Smiths and brands of DA revolvers do but my M-69 is right on the ragged edge of still moving to lock up as the hammer is falling. However the chambers are lined up perfectly with hammer down.
Just looking to see what yours are like. I need to make note of this info before this gun goes back for replacement or repair.
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Just seeing this 40Shooter. I don't have an M69 but I have an M29 and an M629... Both of them in DA when pulling the trigger... the cylinder stop clicks into place on the cylinder stop recess/cuts audibly and tight before the last mm or so of hammer travel/release. My J frames do it too. How's the cylinder/charging holes timing to the barrel/forcing cone look???
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08-21-2018, 12:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fortyshooter
For those that have one...When you pull the trigger in DA mode does your cylinder lock up and settle in for a period of time with a nice click before the hammer starts to fall?
My other Smiths and brands of DA revolvers do but my M-69 is right on the ragged edge of still moving to lock up as the hammer is falling. However the chambers are lined up perfectly with hammer down.
Just looking to see what yours are like. I need to make note of this info before this gun goes back for replacement or repair.
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I have a 69 on the way and this thread has me worried. I guess I'll have to hope for the best, but I know what I'll be checking as soon as it arrives.
As to your lockup question, I test this with every revolver I consider. I do this extremely slowly and with empty chambers, because I don't want any inertia masking a problem. They all must lock up before the hammer starts to fall. If they don't, there's a problem either with the hand or the cylinder notches and I would never fire a gun with that issue. You'll get spitting lead at best and a blown forcing cone at worst.
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08-21-2018, 12:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Borderboss
I have a 69 on the way and this thread has me worried. I guess I'll have to hope for the best, but I know what I'll be checking as soon as it arrives.
As to your lockup question, I test this with every revolver I consider. I do this extremely slowly and with empty chambers, because I don't want any inertia masking a problem. They all must lock up before the hammer starts to fall. If they don't, there's a problem either with the hand or the cylinder notches and I would never fire a gun with that issue. You'll get spitting lead at best and a blown forcing cone at worst.
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Well maybe 50/50 getting a good one and they seem to be out there.
When mine comes back it had better be like the good ones I read about here or another new one will be shipped out.
I wonder if I have to return it for a new one if they could just send me a redeemable voucher to give to a local dealer.
That way I could visit several LGS and hand pick a good one.
Last edited by fortyshooter; 08-21-2018 at 12:52 PM.
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08-21-2018, 01:04 PM
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A M69 is on my short list and I'd love to be able to inspect one at a LGS but none of the half dozen or so near me carry much in the way of S&W revolvers other than J frames. The only one I've seen locally was at a Bass Pro and I'm not paying list price for one.
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08-21-2018, 01:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Borderboss
I have a 69 on the way and this thread has me worried.
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Don't worry.
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08-21-2018, 01:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Borderboss
I have a 69 on the way and this thread has me worried. I guess I'll have to hope for the best, but I know what I'll be checking as soon as it arrives.
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As a new 69 owner who also has to send his back for repair (seems to be the norm)...I would be quite worried about the kraptastic QC coming out of Smith these days.
Mine has all 5 cylinder charging holes that are either too tight, not polished properly or not tapered enough. I have to hammer on the ejector rod to remove the empties, with ANY brand of factory ammo.
It's the first S+W I've ever owned - and possibly my last. Back to Ruger in the future. Sorry, S+W fans.
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08-21-2018, 01:18 PM
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Does anybody sell the Wrench that Engages the Rifling to remove and Install the 2 Piece Barrel. With that Wrench and the Torque Spec it would be a simple matter to reface the FC in a Lathe, and Re set the Cyl Gap. Of Course that would Suck having to do that on a NEW $700-800 Revolver
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08-21-2018, 01:20 PM
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Fourtyshooter, did they refit the hand? As I recall there was an issue there also.
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08-21-2018, 02:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1sailor
Fourtyshooter, did they refit the hand? As I recall there was an issue there also.
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Well right now it's sitting at it's first rest stop in Newark NJ on it's way to S&W. Should be there tomorrow.
I put that on the list of things to fix and included a spent brass case showing the ding it makes on the side of rim.
So the list includes setting the barrel gap to .004-.006 all around like most of the other new S&W's I read in reviews and here.
Fixing cylinder hand issue....check the cylinder timing so it has lock up before the hammer is set to full cock in DA like it should be.
Clean up the raised burr that is sticking up at barrel exit/crown.
In other words make it like a brand new S&W should be and not some 50 dollar Saturday Nite Special!
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08-21-2018, 03:25 PM
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There are probably many other 69 owners like me that have really good models and like them a lot. Never had an issue and it shoots very well. I'm thinking we're in the majority.
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Foster Positivity.
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08-21-2018, 07:42 PM
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I just brought one home and I'm not seeing any of the issues mentioned here. The barrel's on straight, the timing is fine on a slow DA pull, the gap is tight and square, lockup is good. I put in some empties from some hot mag ammo, and they load and eject fine. Not the same as actually shooting them, but it's some indication. The DA trigger is very nice and the SA trigger is fantastic. It's a used gun and seems like a stupid buy on paper at only $65 less than the after rebate price on a new one online, but maybe it's worth it to be able to actually see the gun and check it out. Haven't shot it yet, but my hopes are high so far.
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08-21-2018, 09:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shakyshoot
I just brought one home and I'm not seeing any of the issues mentioned here. The barrel's on straight, the timing is fine on a slow DA pull, the gap is tight and square, lockup is good. I put in some empties from some hot mag ammo, and they load and eject fine. Not the same as actually shooting them, but it's some indication. The DA trigger is very nice and the SA trigger is fantastic. It's a used gun and seems like a stupid buy on paper at only $65 less than the after rebate price on a new one online, but maybe it's worth it to be able to actually see the gun and check it out. Haven't shot it yet, but my hopes are high so far.
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Don't know why I couldn't have enjoyed the same!
Not making this stuff up but reporting what I got.
I ordered it from Buds so maybe that's where the S&W second quality ones end up at a discount! If I had only brought my **** feeler gauge the day I picked it up!!
Last edited by fortyshooter; 08-21-2018 at 09:59 PM.
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08-21-2018, 10:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shocker
Don't worry.
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Too late. I'm a worrier.
I went to the LGS to check out the 69 I'll pick up later in the week to see if any of these issues exist on mine. (I ordered it from Brownell's, had it sent to the LGS for the transfer, but have to wait three days in Illinois).
This one is fine, subject to firing. The barrel/cylinder gaps look fine and all the same. Lockup is good in single and double action. So now I can sleep tonight.
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08-22-2018, 08:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Borderboss
Too late. I'm a worrier.
I went to the LGS to check out the 69 I'll pick up later in the week to see if any of these issues exist on mine. (I ordered it from Brownell's, had it sent to the LGS for the transfer, but have to wait three days in Illinois).
This one is fine, subject to firing. The barrel/cylinder gaps look fine and all the same. Lockup is good in single and double action. So now I can sleep tonight.
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Hmmm. Maybe that 3 day wait isn't so bad!
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08-22-2018, 09:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Borderboss
Too late. I'm a worrier.
I went to the LGS to check out the 69 I'll pick up later in the week to see if any of these issues exist on mine. (I ordered it from Brownell's, had it sent to the LGS for the transfer, but have to wait three days in Illinois).
This one is fine, subject to firing. The barrel/cylinder gaps look fine and all the same. Lockup is good in single and double action. So now I can sleep tonight.
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Just an FYI, that 72 hour wait starts the minute you purchased it from Brownells, not when the gun store received it.
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08-22-2018, 09:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fortyshooter
My 629-2E is a nice .006 both sides.
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I just checked my -3 and -6 out of curiosity. The -3 was a tight .006 on both sides. The -6 Deluxe was .010 both sides, very snug. It's probably .009 but my gapper set doesn't have a sleeve/finger.
I've never experienced blow back with either nor build up with soft lead, hard casts, or copper jacketed pills.
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08-22-2018, 06:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brjr51
Just an FYI, that 72 hour wait starts the minute you purchased it from Brownells, not when the gun store received it.
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Actually, that's not correct. It starts from the time I do the paperwork at the LGS and the background check gets done, both if which happened Monday. A non-ffl holder can't actually "buy" from out of state. As far as the ATF is concerned, the purchase (actally, the transfer) from Brownell's was to my LGS, and my purchase was from the LGS.
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