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  #1  
Old 08-19-2018, 03:24 PM
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Default Brand New Model 442-1 Locking Up...

Just picked up my first brand new S&W revolver in 35 years an hour ago... and it looks like it's going back to the mothership already. It's a Model 442-1 and it's locking up on me every few dry-fire trigger pulls. A little movement of the trigger and it is eventually functional again (temporarily) until a few more trigger pulls and then another lock-up. Doesn't matter if the trigger pulls are fast or slow... full (finger off trigger) release or keeping my finger on the trigger... same problem.

I had to de-burr the forcing cone a bit, but that didn't solve the problem. Can't see any dragging marks. Same problem unloaded or loaded with .38 snap caps. I'm looking for any ideas about what I might be able to try before shipping it back to S&W later this week. Any and all suggestions appreciated. Thanks.
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Old 08-19-2018, 04:22 PM
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Is the ejector rod loose? It's reverse threaded, fwiw.
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Old 08-19-2018, 04:30 PM
fortyshooter fortyshooter is offline
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Check the cylinder gap with a feeler gage if you can.

I'm keeping track of these things!

Does it lock up in SA?

Last edited by fortyshooter; 08-19-2018 at 04:32 PM.
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Old 08-19-2018, 04:40 PM
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Thanks guys.

Quote:
Originally Posted by yep380 View Post
Is the ejector rod loose? It's reverse threaded, fwiw.
Just checked. It seems to be nice and tight.

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Originally Posted by fortyshooter View Post
Check the cylinder gap with a feeler gage if you can.

I'm keeping track of these things!

Does it lock up in SA?
No SA on this DAO revolver. The gap appears to be very tight, but not touching after I removed a couple burrs from the forcing cone. The problem does not appear to be with the cylinder dragging, but rather with the firing mechanism if I had to guess.
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Old 08-19-2018, 04:46 PM
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Does it have a lock in it or you have without the lock
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Old 08-19-2018, 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Dragon 1 View Post
Does it have a lock in it or you have without the lock
No lock version. I own no guns with the IL. But I kinda sorta got one anyway, didn't I?
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Old 08-19-2018, 04:50 PM
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I just had the same problem with a PC 686+ with the vent rib. It would cycle fine empty, but when loaded it would lock up solid every few shots.

On inspection, I noticed with the action at rest and the cylinder open, the hand wasn't at the bottom of the window and protruded past the recoil shield. All my other Smiths, when at rest, the hand is at the bottom of the window and even with the recoil shield. I think the problem lies there.

It went to Springfield a couple weeks ago and I'm waiting for its return. I wonder if you check yours out it will have the same problem.
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Old 08-19-2018, 04:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TTSH View Post
No lock version. I own no guns with the IL. But I kinda sorta got one anyway, didn't I?
Send it back and hopefully they make it right.
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  #9  
Old 08-19-2018, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by madmikeb View Post
I just had the same problem with a PC 686+ with the vent rib. It would cycle fine empty, but when loaded it would lock up solid every few shots.

On inspection, I noticed with the action at rest and the cylinder open, the hand wasn't at the bottom of the window and protruded past the recoil shield. All my other Smiths, when at rest, the hand is at the bottom of the window and even with the recoil shield. I think the problem lies there.

It went to Springfield a couple weeks ago and I'm waiting for its return. I wonder if you check yours out it will have the same problem.
Interesting problem (and I hope yours comes back made right!), but I just checked and my 442-1 looks okay in that regard. Still, thank you for the suggestion.
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Old 08-19-2018, 04:57 PM
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My M69 has the hand hitting the edge of the case rim causing a very stiff action when cocking hammer. Shipping out tomorrow for Round 2 !
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  #11  
Old 08-19-2018, 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by fortyshooter View Post
My M69 has the hand hitting the edge of the case rim causing a very stiff action when cocking hammer. Shipping out tomorrow for Round 2 !
That would do it. However, in my case, the random locking up occurs with or without the snap caps in place.
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Old 08-19-2018, 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by fortyshooter View Post
Send it back and hopefully they make it right.
I'm out of pocket until Wednesday, but I'll give the mothership a call when I can. I truly hate to send a brand new gun back for repair, but it doesn't seem I have much choice if I want a fully dependable, reliable pocket carry revolver. I won't be the first that had to do this and I surely won't be the last.

Only question is: Shoot it a box or two first? Or send it back just as I received it?
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  #13  
Old 08-19-2018, 05:10 PM
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I hate that when a new gun has problems like this but smith is pretty good call them give them the serial # they will mail you a call tag to ship back to them so at least you do not have to pay to for shipping back to them like some gun companies. They will fix it it just one big pain to have to go through this good luck on this matter.
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  #14  
Old 08-19-2018, 05:50 PM
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It grates that brand new guns have to go back, but now having done it myself it's not a big deal except being deprived of a matte new toy for a few weeks.

So just send it back with a clear, concise description of the symptoms.
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Old 08-19-2018, 05:51 PM
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Try removing the grips and spraying some oil inside. Then dry firing it a bunch of times. Maybe its dry. Might work itself out?

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Old 08-19-2018, 06:10 PM
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Try removing the grips and spraying some oil inside. Then dry firing it a bunch of times. Maybe its dry. Might work itself out?
I'm thinking it might be some small internal chip or burr from the machining process. I'd like to try flushing it out (and lubing at the same time). First I should probably try hitting it with compressed air. I hate to remove the side plate and have the mothership detect that and diss me for screwing with it. I could get it back from warranty repair with a bill.
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Old 08-19-2018, 06:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TTSH View Post
I'm thinking it might be some small internal chip or burr from the machining process. I'd like to try flushing it out (and lubing at the same time). First I should probably try hitting it with compressed air. I hate to remove the side plate and have the mothership detect that and diss me for screwing with it. I could get it back from warranty repair with a bill.
I think a can of rem oil or clp would be just as good as compressed air. If you dont want to take the side plate off, just remove the grips and you can pour drops inside the frame where you could see the spring.
They wont deny you a warranty for removing the grips or the sideplate.
I sent in a 629 with a trigger job for warranty and although it was for a canted barrel, it got shot a whole bunch of times when they had it. They didnt bother cleaning it too and sent it back fixed.
You can put oil in it. It's your gun. Just dont put grease inside. It has to be very light oil.

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Old 08-20-2018, 11:59 AM
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Its a nuisance to send a gun back for repair in the short run, but I think there is an advantage in doing so. It will be the first time in your revolvers life that it has been seen by someone who can be called a gunsmith. Up until that time, it has been "assembled", but not "smithed". When I sent my M66-8 back, they fixed more than I complained about. Gave me confidance that my gun was in the condition that the designers had in mind!

Best,
Rick
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Old 08-20-2018, 01:15 PM
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Sadly, not unknown on these little guns. Poster Armorer951 has commented often on improperly fitted hand/ratchet units on 442/642s. In any case, something not quite right inside. Don't know that I'd want to stress an improperly fitted mechanism by dry firing it. Let the factory handle it. It's a carry piece: It has to work!

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Old 08-20-2018, 02:52 PM
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Its a nuisance to send a gun back for repair in the short run, but I think there is an advantage in doing so. It will be the first time in your revolvers life that it has been seen by someone who can be called a gunsmith. Up until that time, it has been "assembled", but not "smithed". When I sent my M66-8 back, they fixed more than I complained about. Gave me confidance that my gun was in the condition that the designers had in mind!

Best,
Rick
Must not have been the same "smith" that worked on mine!
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Old 08-21-2018, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by riverrat38 View Post
Its a nuisance to send a gun back for repair in the short run, but I think there is an advantage in doing so. It will be the first time in your revolvers life that it has been seen by someone who can be called a gunsmith. Up until that time, it has been "assembled", but not "smithed". When I sent my M66-8 back, they fixed more than I complained about. Gave me confidence that my gun was in the condition that the designers had in mind!
I do understand what you're saying. But for me, it's always been a balancing act between: a) potentially getting a fully-fixed and better running gun... vs. ... b) risking shipping damage, sloppy work and potentially even worse problems than had I not sent it in. That's why whenever I can fix something myself, I do so. Verdict is still out on this buggy 442-1. I am out of town right now, but when I return I'll mess with it a little more, I'll call the mothership... and then I'll make my decision.

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Must not have been the same "smith" that worked on mine!
Ouch!!!
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Old 08-21-2018, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by kaaskop49 View Post
Sadly, not unknown on these little guns. Poster Armorer951 has commented often on improperly fitted hand/ratchet units on 442/642s. In any case, something not quite right inside. Don't know that I'd want to stress an improperly fitted mechanism by dry firing it. Let the factory handle it. It's a carry piece: It has to work!
Good points. I'll look into that hand/ratchet issue. But yes, it does have to work or there isn't much point, is there.
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Old 08-21-2018, 12:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lou_the_welder View Post
I think a can of rem oil or clp would be just as good as compressed air. If you don't want to take the side plate off, just remove the grips and you can pour drops inside the frame where you could see the spring.
They won't deny you a warranty for removing the grips or the sideplate.
I sent in a 629 with a trigger job for warranty and although it was for a canted barrel, it got shot a whole bunch of times when they had it. They didn't bother cleaning it too and sent it back fixed.
You can put oil in it. It's your gun. Just don't put grease inside. It has to be very light oil.
Understood on the very light oil. I know the potential for trouble quite well.

I've also decided that I'm going to shoot the gun before sending it back. No sense in not identifying all problems before it takes a trip back to the mothership. That forcing cone/cylinder gap looks extremely small and I could see it causing trouble as the gun heats up. I believe the best way to test for that is with live fire.

I'll also admit that I am curious if a little live fire will loosen-up whatever is binding or blocking the action internally.
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  #24  
Old 08-21-2018, 07:50 PM
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I always take off the grips and spray Rem oil inside the works. I use snap caps and fire in all directions (upside down, bbl up, bbl down ect.). Always check to be sure all screws are snug (Have found some lose on a few Guns) and Rem oil the grip frame before reinstalling grip.
Wipe off excess oil that comes out from cracks,trigger frame area ect.. it takes a couple days for all excess oil to drain but Rem oil with Teflon works into all areas and won’t leave a heavy film like CLP. JMO
I use CLP on pistol lubrication points because it won’t evaporate or go away with heat from shooting like Rem Oil (A great product).

Good idea to shoot a few rounds to see what else may develop or your problem may go away.
I had to send in a new 360J before shooting it. S&W returned it in a week with the problem corrected. I feel the pain!

Be SAFE and shoot often!

Last edited by Execpro; 08-21-2018 at 07:53 PM.
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Old 08-21-2018, 11:26 PM
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I think I would take it back to where you bought it and see if they will exchange it and safe you a lot of trouble.
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Old 08-22-2018, 01:01 AM
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I would contact S&W Company ASAP and explain what's going on with the gun. They will repair it under warranty. I just got my Model 638 back yesterday afternoon after being away at the repair shop for 3 weeks. I was having an accuracy issue and the barrel was realigned. I didn't get a to shoot it as of yet.

Good luck on getting your gun fixed.

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Old 08-22-2018, 01:05 AM
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That don't sound good,i'd send it back.
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Old 08-22-2018, 06:27 AM
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I think I would take it back to where you bought it and see if they will exchange it and safe you a lot of trouble.
No can do. I bought it from one of the big on-line sellers and had it transferred in. There was a savings in doing it this way, but there is always the remote chance of getting a lemon. I figured what the heck can go wrong with a Model 442-1? Now I know.
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Old 08-22-2018, 06:34 AM
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Originally Posted by mauiblue View Post
I would contact S&W Company ASAP and explain what's going on with the gun. They will repair it under warranty. I just got my Model 638 back yesterday afternoon after being away at the repair shop for 3 weeks. I was having an accuracy issue and the barrel was realigned. I didn't get a to shoot it as of yet.

Good luck on getting your gun fixed.
Thank you. The more I think about it, the more I am convinced that I should shoot a box or two before sending it back... just in case there is something else wrong with it. Aside from the ribbing I received (and am still receiving) from my Taurus-loving friend, I am over the initial frustration of purchasing a brand new handgun that doesn't work right. It is what it is. I will deal with it. I'm not even surprised. I'm just a little frustrated.
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Old 08-22-2018, 06:38 AM
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Just picked up my first brand new S&W revolver in 35 years an hour ago... and it looks like it's going back to the mothership already. It's a Model 442-1 and it's locking up on me every few dry-fire trigger pulls. A little movement of the trigger and it is eventually functional again (temporarily) until a few more trigger pulls and then another lock-up. Doesn't matter if the trigger pulls are fast or slow... full (finger off trigger) release or keeping my finger on the trigger... same problem.

I had to de-burr the forcing cone a bit, but that didn't solve the problem. Can't see any dragging marks. Same problem unloaded or loaded with .38 snap caps. I'm looking for any ideas about what I might be able to try before shipping it back to S&W later this week. Any and all suggestions appreciated. Thanks.
DON'T FOOL AROUND WITH IT---JUST SEND IT BACK......

ANY BUBBA GUNSMITHING ON YOUR PART MAY VOID YOUR WARRANTY........
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Old 08-22-2018, 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Execpro View Post
I always take off the grips and spray Rem oil inside the works. I use snap caps and fire in all directions (upside down, bbl up, bbl down ect.). Always check to be sure all screws are snug (Have found some lose on a few Guns) and Rem oil the grip frame before reinstalling grip.
Wipe off excess oil that comes out from cracks,trigger frame area ect.. it takes a couple days for all excess oil to drain but Rem oil with Teflon works into all areas and won’t leave a heavy film like CLP. JMO
I use CLP on pistol lubrication points because it won’t evaporate or go away with heat from shooting like Rem Oil (A great product).

Good idea to shoot a few rounds to see what else may develop or your problem may go away.
I had to send in a new 360J before shooting it. S&W returned it in a week with the problem corrected. I feel the pain!

Be SAFE and shoot often!
That's encouraging that the turnaround was so fast.

I'll give the Rem Oil drenching idea a shot when I get back home. I'd still like to hit it with compressed air first just to see if I can blow out whatever might be blocking the action.
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  #32  
Old 08-22-2018, 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by somorris View Post
I think I would take it back to where you bought it and see if they will exchange it and safe you a lot of trouble.
A dealer is not going to take back a gun that has been "tinkered" with, regardless of what it is doing. But the OP can call S&W they will send the mailer, UPS will pick it up, and bring it back when it is fixed. If S&W does not get it right, the dealer can help with that. Be Safe,

EDIT: Just saw the op bought it online, his only option is to call S&W, transferring FFL is not likely to get involved, since it was not purchased from that dealer. Be Safe,
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Old 08-23-2018, 02:50 AM
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Originally Posted by TTSH View Post
Thank you. The more I think about it, the more I am convinced that I should shoot a box or two before sending it back... just in case there is something else wrong with it. Aside from the ribbing I received (and am still receiving) from my Taurus-loving friend, I am over the initial frustration of purchasing a brand new handgun that doesn't work right. It is what it is. I will deal with it. I'm not even surprised. I'm just a little frustrated.
Nah, don't shoot the gun. I would hate to hear that there was a catastrophic failure when you were testing it. Brand New Model 442-1 Locking Up...Brand New Model 442-1 Locking Up....

When you send the gun in the repair shop will test it it out just like they did with mine. S&W will analyze the problem and any other issue. Good luck.

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Old 08-23-2018, 07:41 AM
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I agree with not shooting it. I had a problem out of the box with a N frame. I also had a couple encourage me to shoot it before sending it back, but I restrained myself. I believe that you should not shoot any firearm that is known to have a problem. First, you don't know what could happen. Second, it's not going to fix it, but probably make it worse. Worse usually means more expensive. Not an issue assuming the warranty is in good standing, but if you know it's not working right and it explodes(extremely unlikely), who's to blame? The manufacturer? or the person person shooting it knowing it wasn't working right? If your car engine makes a noise do you drive your car? I realize some people do That's like saying I want to be stuck on the side of the road, waiting on a tow truck, leaving my life in the hands of people whizzing by. I think I'll take the car that sounds like ****.
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Old 08-23-2018, 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by mauiblue View Post
Nah, don't shoot the gun. I would hate to hear that there was a catastrophic failure when you were testing it. Brand New Model 442-1 Locking Up...Brand New Model 442-1 Locking Up....

When you send the gun in the repair shop will test it it out just like they did with mine. S&W will analyze the problem and any other issue. Good luck.
I appreciate your concern, but I don't see any specific reason to suspect I'd have a catastrophic failure. It will either work right and fire the round... or the trigger will lock-up and it will not fire the round. The gun itself is otherwise in brand spanking new right-out-of-the-box condition.

In regard to trusting S&W warranty repair service to do all the right things... this is where I get slightly cynical. Maybe I've been hanging around this forum for too long, but I've read way too many stories of guns needing repeat visits to the mothership before a problem or set of problems are fully addressed and made right. This is the world we live in today and so I want to make sure that if this 442-1 has got to go back that I have identified all problems, not just the first one I found.

I also remain cautiously optimistic that the gun will loosen up and work correctly if I give it a chance. Keep in mind that this is an intermittent problem (albeit a fairly frequent intermittent problem) and those are the problems that the mothership tends not to get right the first time around.

Anyway, I am back home now and will start messing with it as time and my many doctor appointments allow. Unfortunately, another pressing family crisis just emerged last night, so it could be another week or so before I make a decision about sending it back or pursuing some other solution.
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  #36  
Old 08-23-2018, 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by 99bob View Post
I agree with not shooting it. I had a problem out of the box with a N frame. I also had a couple encourage me to shoot it before sending it back, but I restrained myself. I believe that you should not shoot any firearm that is known to have a problem. First, you don't know what could happen. Second, it's not going to fix it, but probably make it worse. Worse usually means more expensive. Not an issue assuming the warranty is in good standing, but if you know it's not working right and it explodes(extremely unlikely), who's to blame? The manufacturer? or the person person shooting it knowing it wasn't working right? If your car engine makes a noise do you drive your car? I realize some people do That's like saying I want to be stuck on the side of the road, waiting on a tow truck, leaving my life in the hands of people whizzing by. I think I'll take the car that sounds like ****.
Well, the car analogy is a good one, but I don't think this buggy 442-1 will leave me stuck on the side of the road. That's good because there isn't an AAA for gun breakdowns.

But in all seriousness, I see nothing unusually dangerous about attempting to shoot this gun. I see nothing to lose and possibly something to gain if the problem works itself out. Something is intermittently stopping the trigger from moving. If I can figure out what that is and eliminate it, I've saved a lot of trouble and the risks associated with mailing the gun in.

Let's see what happens and take it from there.
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  #37  
Old 08-23-2018, 08:21 AM
Mrnurse Mrnurse is offline
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Best of luck on test firing it. I bought a 442-1 NIB this summer, about 150 rds so far with factory ammo without a issue. I bought it because I needed a 100% never fail carry weapon, If I had your issues with it I would send it back to SW period...they built it...they know all about it...they can fix it. I would NEVER NEVER fool with opening up a New Pistol or Warranty covered Model that can void the Warranty if they detect you've fooled with it. Again good luck.
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  #38  
Old 08-23-2018, 08:35 AM
fortyshooter fortyshooter is offline
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100 % never fail...is there such a mechanical thing?
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  #39  
Old 08-23-2018, 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Mrnurse View Post
Best of luck on test firing it. I bought a 442-1 NIB this summer, about 150 rds so far with factory ammo without a issue. I bought it because I needed a 100% never fail carry weapon, If I had your issues with it I would send it back to SW period...they built it...they know all about it...they can fix it. I would NEVER NEVER fool with opening up a New Pistol or Warranty covered Model that can void the Warranty if they detect you've fooled with it. Again good luck.
I appreciate your point about this gun needing to be a "100% never fail carry weapon"... and it's for that reason that it may have to go back eventually anyway even if I get the gun working somewhat better than it is now (i.e., less frequent lock-ups). There will always be a question in the back of my mind about when it will or could fail next. On the other hand, will I ever trust the gun even after it takes a trip back to the mothership? I see mucho consumption of ammo ahead before I will ever be able to trust the gun either way.

The good wife had a great point in that regard: She says just go buy the PC 442 (on sale locally for cheap) and dump the buggy 442-1. Not such a bad idea, actually.
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  #40  
Old 08-23-2018, 09:00 AM
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Send it to S&W...You`re in Ma, they are in Ma. If you do you will get a working gun back,be happy and forget about it before you know it.
Good luck!
Jim
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  #41  
Old 08-23-2018, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by fortyshooter View Post
100 % never fail...is there such a mechanical thing?
Maybe not, but you want to get as close as humanly possible.

You certainly don't want to be carrying a DAO revolver with a very high probability of locking up on you when you need it.
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  #42  
Old 08-23-2018, 09:47 AM
fortyshooter fortyshooter is offline
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Fire some rounds through it and send it back!!

I didn't find out about the hand issue until I ran some rounds through it.
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  #43  
Old 08-23-2018, 12:27 PM
Mrnurse Mrnurse is offline
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100 % never fail...is there such a mechanical thing?
You get my point...if my life depends on a weapon then it has to work...a NIB 442 that has troubles is a big issue in my world. Im sure we all had jams and failures with automatics...thats the reason I went to a wheel gun. how about 99.9% works when I draw the weapon...that .1% was just my time to die deal.
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  #44  
Old 08-23-2018, 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Mrnurse View Post
100 % never fail...is there such a mechanical thing?
You get my point...if my life depends on a weapon then it has to work...a NIB 442 that has troubles is a big issue in my world. I'm sure we all had jams and failures with automatics...that's the reason I went to a wheel gun. how about 99.9% works when I draw the weapon...that .1% was just my time to die deal.
The funny thing is that small frame revolvers (especially DAO revolvers) are supposed to be more reliable as carry guns than semi-autos... their downside being their limited capacity. That's what makes this problem a little bit ironic. With many excellent semi-auto carry guns already available to me, most of them Smith & Wessons, I thought that one brand new lightweight DAO j-frame would be perfect for those times when speed, simplicity and reliability over capacity made the most sense.

I think this is just a case of my legendary bad luck... and perhaps a little of my unrealistically high expectations for a relatively cheap revolver. But I have no doubt that the problem will be resolved... one way or another.
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  #45  
Old 08-23-2018, 01:57 PM
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If it were me, I'd want to fire and I'd be wondering if it was just some simple burr or something in there too.

However, the converse is that you stated you doubt it's going to have a catastrophic failure. It's either going to fire or it won't. Just a though on this, if it's sticking during the trigger pull, it COULD fire unlocked or not fully locked and not line up properly. That could cause something bad. Damage to the forcing cone. Or worse.

I'm no expert and take what I'm saying with a grain of salt. But if you're saying it's sticking, there may be some wisdom in what I'm saying.

You be the judge.

You could double check that once you CAN pull the trigger if it's actually locking up every time. It's pretty easy to tell. You can hear the hand / bolt drop in. On mine it's pretty evident to hear before the hammer drops. I know you can't see the hammer but you can hear that too.

Last edited by ABPOS; 08-23-2018 at 01:59 PM.
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  #46  
Old 08-23-2018, 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by ABPOS View Post
If it were me, I'd want to fire and I'd be wondering if it was just some simple burr or something in there too.

However, the converse is that you stated you doubt it's going to have a catastrophic failure. It's either going to fire or it won't. Just a though on this, if it's sticking during the trigger pull, it COULD fire unlocked or not fully locked and not line up properly. That could cause something bad. Damage to the forcing cone. Or worse.

I'm no expert and take what I'm saying with a grain of salt. But if you're saying it's sticking, there may be some wisdom in what I'm saying.

You be the judge.

You could double check that once you CAN pull the trigger if it's actually locking up every time. It's pretty easy to tell. You can hear the hand / bolt drop in. On mine it's pretty evident to hear before the hammer drops. I know you can't see the hammer but you can hear that too.
I do understand what you are saying and all indications (so far) are that the mechanism is working exactly as it should work when the trigger does not lock-up on me. When the trigger does lock-up, nothing happens. There is no discernible partial movement of anything... so I don't think there is much chance that the gun might fire without the cylinder being properly locked into firing position.
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  #47  
Old 08-24-2018, 09:55 AM
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Unhappy I give up...

Okay, gun is packed up and going back to the mothership today. Tried everything I could reasonably try with it and no luck. At times, I could get it to go 30-40-50 dry fire trigger pulls without it locking up... and then right back to locking up on practically every other trigger pull attempt. Rinse and repeat... over and over again. No further clues as to what is blocking it. It just plain decides not to work at times.

Time to let the mothership have a crack at it. I told the S&W CS guy that I am very concerned about the sometimes intermittent nature of the problem and that I would prefer that the gun not be sent back to me with a note saying that they couldn't duplicate the problem. I'm thinking about doing a short video just to show them what is happening.

So in the end, I didn't get a chance to shoot it. Not sure how I feel about that, but it was so damn buggy this morning (locking up constantly) that I decided to nix the range trip and just do the inevitable.

Full report when it comes back. Thanks to all who tried to help. I really do appreciate the input.
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Old 08-24-2018, 12:51 PM
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I'm sure they'll notice the problem. My guess is you will be taken care of well and happy in the end.

Don't discount it yet. They are fun guns to shoot and carry. I like mine a lot.
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  #49  
Old 08-24-2018, 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by ABPOS View Post
I'm sure they'll notice the problem. My guess is you will be taken care of well and happy in the end.

Don't discount it yet. They are fun guns to shoot and carry. I like mine a lot.
Well, to be honest, I'll already thinking this 442-1 was a mistake. Knowing what I know now, I probably should have gone for the PC 442 (which I could have inspected right in the shop) or perhaps some other lightweight j-frame alternative that I just haven't thought about or researched enough yet.

The good news is that I didn't overpay so I don't think I'll take much of a hit if I decide later to dump it for lack of confidence and move on. Live and learn. I'm old and... trust me... I've make far more expensive mistakes than this one.
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Old 08-24-2018, 05:08 PM
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Personally, I think a steel J frame is better. But I don't own one, so.... LOL. I just think the extra weight is good for an already hard to shoot plaftorm. I didn't set out to by an airweight, it was more of a helping someone out thing. But I ended up shooting it well enough to be considered a carry gun and it is very easy to carry.

But my first pick would've been something like a 36/60/649/640. I almost bought an SP101 DAO but something was nagging at me to not. And then a month later My Mom offered me to buy this from her. She was in need of money.

But really from the first range session, I kind of fell in love with it. I definitely don't like hot loads in it. But it's way fun with just normal pressure .38. I say let them fix it and give it a chance.






Last edited by ABPOS; 08-24-2018 at 05:12 PM.
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