Hello everybody,
I want to buy a used S&W 686 (6") that I found here in Switzerland. I've got two images showing the revolver. The owner (private seller and has no clue about these guns) says it is a -3 but the 686 doesn't have a dash number on its barrel.
It is obviously a performance center version (marked on the frame) and it has a Nill grip, covering the frame on the bottom.
I'll attach two images of this 686 revolver. Is anyone able to tell me if this is really a -3 version? I am aware that there is a serial on the frame, but for now I have these two images only.

Any thoughts or hints about this one? Should I take it or leave it?

Thanks in advance,
Olli

Just click it, it's a high res image, perfect to zoom in.


PS: And yes...I will definitely remove that stupid stuff on top of that nice gun. ;-)

Welcome! Someone here may know exactly what this is, but the standard reference has the closest model by description as Product Code 170009, the 686 Carry Comp with 6" barrel. The year is not listed but the 4" version was made in 1994, which would make it a very late -3 or an early -4. Seeing a picture of the top strap minus the optic rail would tell which one it is.

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Alan
SWCA LM 2023, SWHF 220

Well my non drilled 686 needed a different style scope mount..

my bet is on a -4

My 686-3 isn't drilled, my 686-4 is, Unless the original owner had a -3 drilled and tapped I would also say a -4. But just look inside at the model number it should have a dash number. Just open the cylinder, it should be in there on the frame. Either way dash 3 or dash 4 it's a nice gun. Can't advise you on pricing over your way, but that 686 should be good to go if it passes the basic revolver inspection.

OPEN THE CYLINDER AND LOOK IN THE YOKE AREA, WHERE THE FACTORY STAMPS THE MODEL NUMBER, AND DASH VARIANT---FOR EXAMPLE 686-3.....

THE ABSENCE OF ANY NUMBER AFTER THE 686 WOULD MAKE IT A "NO DASH", OR THE VERY FIRST ITERATION OF THE MODEL 686....

THE FRAME COULD HAVE BEEN DRILLED AND TAPPED BY A GUNSMITH, TO ALLOW THE MOUNTING OF OPTICS ON AN EARLY GUN.......

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'Nam 1968-69.DAV,VFW,NRA Inst.

Open the cylinder and look on the crane. There will be a set of numbers stamped for example 686-3/ 686-4. That revolver looks great, I'd buy it if I were you.

The dash number has never appeared on the barrel. (same goes for the model number). You should see the dash number in the yoke cut out ("crain" is a colt term, S&W has never used it). My vote is it is a -3 that has been drilled and tapped. A -4 would not have a flash chromed hammer and trigger.

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~ S&W aficionado in training ~

I believe what you are looking at is:

"Model 686 Powerport: Cal-.357 Magnum, 6” integral ported full-lug barrel, drilled and tapped, .375” semi-target hammer, .312” smooth combat trigger, pinned black Patridge front sight, black blade rear sight, 46 oz. Product code 104272. Manufactured in 1994."

This information is from the Standard Catalog of Smith and Wesson.

If it is from 1994, then it would be a 686-4.

The 686-4 did have the drilled and tapped Frame, so this could very well be what you have pictured.

So how much do they want for it?

The Nil grips alone are worth $200 - $250, I think this thing is a winner.

It is an excellent revolver. No internal lock, no MIM parts.

Did anyone read Olli's post? He doesn't have the gun yet. He can't open the cylinder. He only has the pictures.

Gentlemen:

GerSan69 has raised the issue before I could complete my more verbose and possibly excessively diplomatic response, but since I've put the time in, here it is: Our Swiss friend has made it clear, both in his thread title and his post, that he himself doesn't currently have possession of the gun, only the two pictures. Consequently he can't open the cylinder to see which dash number it is, and is wondering if that information can somehow be ascertained by looking at the pictures. He can ask the seller to open the cylinder and confirm or correct what he told the OP earlier; but I'm guessing that, for some reason, he's not able to get in contact with the seller right away and would like to know if possible before his next contact with him(I'll let him tell us about that if he so chooses.).

SIG-P210-6(or Olli, if you prefer): I have both a dash 3 and a dash 4, and the only way one can tell the difference(on my two 686s at least) from looking at the outside of them is that the dash 3 has the flash-chromed hammer and trigger, and the dash 4 has the forged hammer and trigger. The former has a brighter finish than the latter. The hammer and trigger on the gun in your pictures don't appear to be as bright as the flash chromed ones on my dash 3, but neither do they appear to be as dull as the forged ones on my dash 4(how's that for being no help at all?).

At any rate, if I were you I would want to handle that gun and make sure your trigger finger comfortably reaches the trigger in double action position before buying it. I have a Smith 629 with one of those Nill grips which cover the backstrap, and my finger isn't long enough to maintain a proper grip while firing it in double action. This is fine in my case, because I never fire it that way anyway; but you may want to fire your 686 in double action(I realize that the 629 has a larger frame, but this still may be an issue with the 686 -I don't know for sure.).

Best wishes with your decision,
Andy

The stupid stuff on top will allow you to be more accurate at long distances verses a open sight .. Are many time used in hunting with a pistol ..

Many use a Red Dot sight with home defensive revolvers .. Many very fine pistols are now being set up with red dot sights sight from the factory .. and many police forces use red dot sights ..

Unless the owner had the pistol drilled and taped the 686 - 4 is the first factory drill and tap 686 ..

Good guess, but the 104272 was a standard production gun. This gun is from the Performance Center. Notice the logo and the rare "raised" thumb piece, a part the PC only used for a year or two in the early/mid '90's.

The OP's gun is darn close, they share a lot of features, I'd say they were cousins. I still think it is a -3, but probably some European exclusive variation with the product code not even appearing in the Standard Catalog.

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~ S&W aficionado in training ~

Thank you very much @ all!!!!!!! You're amazing!

I wrote another e-mail to the seller and asked for the serial number in the yoke cut out. So we'll see if I can get a response to this question.

Topic: "Price"
The 686 6" latest model costs new here in Switzerland approx. 1.300 $. (Yeah, everything is more expensive here, except Swiss chocolate. ;-) )
I can't find any used 686 below 1.000 bugs, except this Performance Center gun, shown in my images. This guy wants 950 $ for this one, incl. the red dot stuff and rail and Nill grip. Nill = 200$, rail = 200$, red dot thing = 150$ (all three parts brand new), means 400$ for the PC version of this 686. I thought that this is more than just fair. ;-)
I'll keep you updated.

PS: Sorry for my lousy English and not existing grammar skills.

+ on everything said above. I've had a 'no-dash' for years, but just sent it back to the factory to get the "M" modification. The no-dash had a factory recall because the cylinder bound up when the primer flowed around the firing pin. ALL of the guns weren't affected. If you stay away from max loads and use quality ammo with hard primers, you probably won't see any trouble.

If there is an 'M' stamp, it will be appended to the model number under the yoke when you swing out the cylinder.

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"He was kinda funny lookin'"

He can ASK the seller to look under the yoke and tell him what is there.

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"He was kinda funny lookin'"

That looks like a very good price with all the accessories if you need them / can use them; I don’t think they have a great resale value though.

The latest models have a lock

Used 586 and 686 are pretty common in Switzerland.

I bought this one for 700



And this one for 750



You should not be shy and negotiate price / make an offer, ideally on the spot and license in hand. Supply is greater than demand these days, and I see a lot of guns for sale not moving. Of course the nicer ones and correctly priced ones move faster.

Good luck.

Hello, it's me again. He answered to my e-mail and wrote the following:

Schmith & Wesson 357 Magnum BHN 95xx
...and he says it is a 686-3, that I would like to have confirmed from you guys. Maybe you also know the year when it was produced or shipped.
He also wrote that is was drilled already.

Thanks again,
Oliver

If the BHN serial number prefix was used in order (and it may not have been), that would date this one to the fall of 1991, in the range of the 686-3. These were not usually drilled/tapped but it is a Performance Center product. Someone here may get you a more precise production date, or have the identical gun with more details.

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Alan
SWCA LM 2023, SWHF 220

I just paid $884.00 US for a 686+ PC 2 1/2 inch barrel with out the rail which here is less then 60 dollars .. a cheap red dot under 100 and grips 200 ..

So yes a good price IF there is nothing wrong with the revolver !!

I thought I had it.

This is a neat 686 though.

Hello @ all, it's me again and the 686-3 6" is @ home now. ;-)

Here are some pics in high resolution. Just click the appropriate pic to enlarge it.

I got it with two grips. One is from Nill (first pic) and the other I don't know. Which one do you like more (visually)? I will use the first one, because it feels better in my hands.




It is a square butt frame. Do you know what this "199" stands for? Same number is also in the yoke.


And yes, it's really a performance center -3. But I think that's quite common, isn't it?



Please look the barrel entry part. Is it normal that the rim is fragmented/scratched that way?





That's the hammer.



And finally you can see the "magnum groove". What do you think, is it a 686-3 with a lot shots or still a lower number. ;-)





Another question I have is about the cylinder tolerance. When I try to rotate it, I see a tolerance of around 0,3 mm (estimated). Is that good, normal or weak?

The space between cylinder and barrel is also around 0,3 mm (estimated).

So...what do you think?

Thank you in advance and good night...from Europe.
O.

PS: Yes, now I need to clean it a bit... :-D

All I want to know is what camera are you using?

*hahaha*
That was my iPhone X and for the close ups a dnt cam:


Cheers
O.

That's a nice looking 686, first the hammer, or the firing pin issue, a little pitted, but an easy fix. Just re-pin a new one in. The forcing cone is pretty rough, that can be turned down and redone by a qualified gun smith. The "magnum grove", that's pretty severe, probably saw a lot of light 125 gr. bullets with 296 powder. That can probably be massaged smooth to look a little better, but there is still plenty of meat on that top strap. The forcing cone and top strap issues should be dealt with sooner than later, a rough surface on those area would be more prone to cracking. Usually that's not an issue with the L-Frame, but why take chances.

Thanks for the extra photos. The extra stocks are made by Pachmayr - never did quite understand the slippery wood on the back with the rubber on the front and sides.

The (7867) 199 is some type of factory code, probably an "assembly number" to keep initially fitted parts identified for final assembly.

The top strap groove occurs with a (relatively) few rounds fired; it generally will get to a certain depth and stop. The forcing cone looks pretty rough; is the rifled section of the nearby barrel heavily eroded? I'd be tempted to have it recut or smoothed.

Performance Center guns are not all that common and you have a nice one. Enjoy!

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Alan
SWCA LM 2023, SWHF 220

That is a round butt frame.

Looks like it's been shot quite a bit, with hot 125gr rounds, by looking at the forcing cone and the flame cutting. The forcing cone is a fairly straightforward fix by a competant gunsmith.

Usually flame cutting is self limiting. Meaning, it'll only go so far, and then stop. At least, I've never heard of it causing any issues.

The other set of grips are made by Pachmayr, and I never really understood why they made those. Wood and rubber doesn't make a whole lot of sense to me. I much prefer the look of the Nills.

Fantastic looking revolver! I need a 6" 686 in my life.

I have two 6" 686s, a -3 Classic Hunter and a -4 PowerPort, but I would love to have one like that!

Ed

Every revolver fanatic should own at least one or two 686's...

Call me nuts but my EDC is a 4" 686-6 that I carry in a Galco master combat OWB holster

What do you think about the tolerances I described?

Thanks,
Oliver

.3mm equals about .012 inches, which is the high side for clearance. So long as it's a). accurate and b). not spitting lead, you should be OK. It can be corrected for a tighter fit but that's not something I would recommend a novice try doing. Also, make sure nothing (like your finger) is sticking beside that gap when firing - you won't like the results!

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So many S&W's, so few funds!!