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Old 08-28-2018, 10:25 AM
Shtf45acp Shtf45acp is online now
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I'm looking at swapping the barrel on one of my 625-8 revolvers to a short snubby 625-10. I haven't ordered the barrel yet but from the pictures I've seen it looks like the 625-10 might possibly use a shorter cylinder? The gap between the crane and the cylinder looks to be larger then a standard 625.

I only have seen one 625-10 for sale on gunbroker and it went for quite a bit of money. Numrich sells a barrel for $75 so I figured I would try to convert one of my extra 625 5" revolvers.

Could anyone help me out before I order a barrel and waste the money and then not be able to do the swap? Thank you!
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Last edited by Shtf45acp; 09-13-2018 at 05:24 PM. Reason: Updating Thread
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Old 08-28-2018, 03:04 PM
HamHands HamHands is offline
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The -10 looks nothing like my 625 Jerry Miculek version in regards to the cylinder. The gap is huge in the -10 comparatively. But for a definite answer I would contact Clark Customs at (318) 949-9884. They used to do a fair amount of customization on M625's in converting them to .460Rowland, machining cylinder's for moon clips, etc.. If anyone knows, they will.

ETA:
If they can't or won't do the swap.. I know GB has a few snub barrelled M625's. They go for a lot less than a snub .44mag/special.

Last edited by HamHands; 08-28-2018 at 03:06 PM.
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Old 08-28-2018, 08:24 PM
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Thanks for the tip!!! I'll give them a call tomorrow.

As far as other snub nose I already have a 3" 625. I check gunbroker on the daily for 625 and haven't seen a 625-10 listed in quite some time.
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Old 08-28-2018, 09:23 PM
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If it is shorter it wouldn't be hard for a machinist to turn the shoulder on the barrel so that it would fit. You just need to find a gunsmith that has those kinds of skills and tools.
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Old 09-13-2018, 05:41 PM
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Ok so I figured I'd just update the post I started.

I picked up a 625-2 so the revolver would match me 625-3 with 3" barrel for the most part. I ordered the barrel for 625-10 from numerich and it should be here tomorrow or Saturday. The plan is to swap it on to the 625-2 and have a all stainless 625-10.

Now the barrel swap should be he simple part. The hard part will be the rear sight. I seen a thread posted on here from a few years ago and tried to reach out to the original poster but never received a response back. The problem with using the original rear sights is the front sight needs to be extremely tall.

I'm hoping to take out the notch for the sight elevation square screw and make a piece I can press fit in there. That way it will be more like the original 625-10 frame and sights and have good concealabilty. Possibly mill a shallow groove up the top of the frame to help the sights. I'm hoping I can get it to look something like this.





Anyway I thought I'd start a thread so I can get some tips, ideas, thoughts, and constructive criticism.











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Old 09-13-2018, 05:45 PM
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Here is the other 625-10 conversion. You see since the owner used the original N frame sights how tall the front sight needs to be. I'm hoping to change that.





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Old 09-13-2018, 07:01 PM
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The -10 doesn't have a sight that can be changed. Its milled out of the frame.

Just have to wait and see what I have in mind.
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Old 09-13-2018, 09:15 PM
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If you want to use the adjustable sights you can change the original rear sight blade to the shortest one that S&W offers. That will reduce the height requirement for the front sight. It will not be a huge change, but every bit helps

I have the 45 LC variation of that revolver


I have also bought some spare barrels because I want to do an adjustable sight version of the revolver. Like you I plan on using a steel 625 as the donor, but mine will be in 45 LC
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Old 09-13-2018, 09:43 PM
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I'm just going to make a piece I can slip in the rear. I was going to go with a cylinder & slide rear sight but they are way to high. I'm hoping by the time I fit the piece it will be almost like a J frame rear sight and just flow with the frame except it will be parkerized.
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Old 09-13-2018, 09:55 PM
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Here's mine on a British .455 frame.
My 625-10 All Stainless Conversion Project-1917a-jpg
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Old 09-13-2018, 09:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kernel Crittenden View Post
If it is shorter it wouldn't be hard for a machinist to turn the shoulder on the barrel so that it would fit. You just need to find a gunsmith that has those kinds of skills and tools.
If it was any shorter, itíd be a Lady Smith.
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Old 09-13-2018, 09:57 PM
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Yeah I love yours. We have talked several times about your snub nose.
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Old 09-13-2018, 10:17 PM
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The cool part though is it is a N frame and 45 acp!
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Old 09-14-2018, 02:34 AM
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Quote:
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...but from the pictures I've seen it looks like the 625-10 might possibly use a shorter cylinder? The gap between the crane and the cylinder looks to be larger then a standard 625.
The 625PC's cylinder length is ~ 1/8" shorter than the JM's/325/625 (1.425" vs. 1.540"). Maybe that's what they used on the 625-10?
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Old 09-14-2018, 01:44 PM
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Yeah I believe that is what it uses. Do you think I could call Smith and Wesson and buy one?
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Old 09-14-2018, 02:20 PM
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There is no reason that you can not use the cylinder that came with the 625 donor gun

Just shorten the barrel from the back and re-cut the forcing cone

This will allow you to set the B/C gap as tight as you want it
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Old 09-14-2018, 02:22 PM
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Yeah that's what I plan on doing. I'm going to rent the tools from 4D reamers to do it and while I have them I'll possibly touch up all my other 625 revolvers as well.
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Old 09-14-2018, 04:37 PM
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I saw a convention on this forum call Crowbar I believe. M28 frame removed rear sight to match lowered front sight
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Old 09-14-2018, 04:48 PM
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No offense folks, but I don't use the sights on my "snubbie" for defensive shooting. It's strictly a point and shoot pistol for inside of 5 yards. Feel free to disagree. S&W Model 60.
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Old 09-14-2018, 05:09 PM
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My lightweight 625-10 is a very good shooter but the aluminum crane would flex on me so I found a ss crane for it but had to make a spacer for it. I didnít attempt to do the ball bearing. I carry it in the winter in a pocket holster.
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Old 09-14-2018, 06:45 PM
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I understand what you are saying about point and shoot especially for a snub nose. That is my goal but I'd like to have some kind of reference for sights at least.

My plan originally was to do something like this. Open up the top rear of the frame and whittle a little sight almost exactly like this one from Hamilton Bowen.





But I found that custom built revolver called "CROWBAR". WOW! I love what they did with it and would be much simpler for me to reproduce that work. I'm not sure how they did the serrations but I can probably figure it out. The only problem I have is it kind of looks unfinished because the original notch is still there for the factory rear adjustable sights. Maybe ramp the rear more and contour it into the frame so it flows better. Then run a shallow groove straight up the center of the frame strap to help with a better sight profile?



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Old 09-15-2018, 11:19 AM
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So the hammer and trigger showed up today. I found my hammer was ok but the trigger was definitely rounded off unsquare and causing the push off issue. I don't know if it can be stoned and fixed but the used trigger I bought off ebay fixed the push off issue. The only other thing I want to replace is the strain screw as it seems to be a little mushroomed. I looked at my other three 625 revolvers and all of them seem a little mushroomed and range from .475" to .500" in length.

The 625-10 barrel didn't show up like I was hoping but hopefully it does Monday. Then I can order rental tools from 4D and start the swap.





I also got the email from altamont the rosewood service grips I ordered will take about 2-4 weeks to receive due to wanting the s&w logo on them.

Last night I was looking around and found checkering files from gorbet. I'm hoping to order one and cut it down to match the width of the top frame groove and cut some serrations in it. I still havent decided to go with the "CROWBAR" style sight or the small piece bowen style sight.
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Old 09-15-2018, 03:24 PM
Oldgunner43 Oldgunner43 is offline
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Looks like you've got yourself quite a project there. We'll look forward to seeing the end result.
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Old 09-15-2018, 07:13 PM
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Late delivery from the mail man. He said he forgot it and dropped it off on his way home!





Anyway I come upon something weird! I lined up the barrel with the front of the frame and pushed it as far back as I could. It seems like it's going to install with no modifications at all! I should have to cut roughly a 1/8" off but by the looks of this it's already cut and forcing recut. I'll just have to set the cylinder gap once I swap the barrels. So I guess we'll see.



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Old 09-20-2018, 04:45 PM
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Well the action wrench I order from brownells showed up today and I got to take the 5" barrel off. I didn't completely install the new 625-10 barrel in but it should install with no problems. You can see the clocking is good at approximately 10-11 o'clock. Besides cutting down the ejector rod I think it will install perfectly. Here is some photos for the mean time.

I want to clean the top of the frame and check closely for a firing groove and then install the barrel. Then I'll begin working on sights before it goes in the blast cabinet for a factory matte finish using brownells 270 grit glass beads.





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Old 09-20-2018, 04:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shtf45acp View Post
Besides cutting down the ejector rod I think it will install perfectly. Here is some photos for the mean time.
Why not just order the correct ejector rod, center pin and spring?

These are all current parts used on the 2" Model 327
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Old 09-20-2018, 04:59 PM
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Where can I find them? Last time I called Smith and Wesson support they were far from helpful. I didn't see it on midway unless I over looked it.
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Old Yesterday, 07:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by colt_saa View Post
Why not just order the correct ejector rod, center pin and spring?

These are all current parts used on the 2" Model 327
So after doing some more digging last night I found the extractor rod and center pin rom a 2 1/2" 66 686 will fit. From my measurements and other measurements I found on ebay the parts should put it right where it needs to be. I'll be ordering the new parts today from midwayusa and cross my fingers they are right.
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Old Yesterday, 09:43 PM
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I'm excited to see the outcome - especially if it happens you don't need to turn down the barrel!
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Old Yesterday, 09:45 PM
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I really don't think I'll have to turn the barrel down. The cylinder to barrel gap looks good as of now. I won't know till next week because the free shipping from midway said October 1st delivery date.
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Old Yesterday, 09:46 PM
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If it does work I'll be ordering a few more barrels lol
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Old Yesterday, 10:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shtf45acp View Post
I'm looking at swapping the barrel on one of my 625-8 revolvers to a short snubby 625-10. I haven't ordered the barrel yet but from the pictures I've seen it looks like the 625-10 might possibly use a shorter cylinder? The gap between the crane and the cylinder looks to be larger then a standard 625.

I only have seen one 625-10 for sale on gunbroker and it went for quite a bit of money. Numrich sells a barrel for $75 so I figured I would try to convert one of my extra 625 5" revolvers.

Could anyone help me out before I order a barrel and waste the money and then not be able to do the swap? Thank you!
IF THE NUMERICH BARREL APPEARS TO BE THREADED SO THAT THE FORCING CONE END WILL PROTRUDE DEEP INTO THE WINDOW OF THE FRAME---I WOULD SAY THAT YOU WILL DEFINITELY NEED TO ORDER A SHORTER CYLINDER, IN ORDER TO MAKE YOUR CONVERSION WORK......
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Old Yesterday, 10:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldgunner43 View Post
No offense folks, but I don't use the sights on my "snubbie" for defensive shooting. It's strictly a point and shoot pistol for inside of 5 yards. Feel free to disagree. S&W Model 60.
I do all my draw and fire until the cylinder empty silhouette/training at 10 yards. Then pull my 2nd Revo and do the same, for time/splits especially when it's my primary "N" frame with a back-up "J" frame, or with 2 "J's". A "J" or "N" frame Snubbie, (or any other caliber of .38Special or greater), is Violence of Action tool and I treat them with great respect for what they are. You pull and fire as fast and as steady as possible into the pelvis or navel area.

Snubbies are more than capable of solid (50-Yard) chimes with 10" Width X 24" Wide silhouette gong shots, & with somewhat ease. But I too must admit when I pull mine on target I'm only focusing on the front sight 95% of the time! YMMV...
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Old Yesterday, 10:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by one eye joe View Post
IF THE NUMERICH BARREL APPEARS TO BE THREADED SO THAT THE FORCING CONE END WILL PROTRUDE DEEP INTO THE WINDOW OF THE FRAME---I WOULD SAY THAT YOU WILL DEFINITELY NEED TO ORDER A SHORTER CYLINDER, IN ORDER TO MAKE YOUR CONVERSION WORK......
I've already got it to work. I don't know if numerich has cut the barrels down already or what the deal is but it worked with my current cylinder.
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Converting M&P 40c to 9mm LOBONCA Smith & Wesson M&P Pistols 14 02-11-2015 03:04 PM
Longer than standard barrel on a semi-auto w/standard slide Nicksterdemus S&W-Smithing 5 12-23-2008 05:31 PM
Converting to DAO? jdmb Smith & Wesson Semi-Auto Pistols 5 10-04-2008 07:07 PM

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