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S&W Revolvers: 1980 to the Present All NON-PINNED Barrels, the L-Frames, and the New Era Revolvers


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Old 08-28-2018, 10:25 AM
Shtf45acp Shtf45acp is offline
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I'm looking at swapping the barrel on one of my 625-8 revolvers to a short snubby 625-10. I haven't ordered the barrel yet but from the pictures I've seen it looks like the 625-10 might possibly use a shorter cylinder? The gap between the crane and the cylinder looks to be larger then a standard 625.

I only have seen one 625-10 for sale on gunbroker and it went for quite a bit of money. Numrich sells a barrel for $75 so I figured I would try to convert one of my extra 625 5" revolvers.

Could anyone help me out before I order a barrel and waste the money and then not be able to do the swap? Thank you!
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Old 08-28-2018, 03:04 PM
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The -10 looks nothing like my 625 Jerry Miculek version in regards to the cylinder. The gap is huge in the -10 comparatively. But for a definite answer I would contact Clark Customs at (318) 949-9884. They used to do a fair amount of customization on M625's in converting them to .460Rowland, machining cylinder's for moon clips, etc.. If anyone knows, they will.

ETA:
If they can't or won't do the swap.. I know GB has a few snub barrelled M625's. They go for a lot less than a snub .44mag/special.

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Old 08-28-2018, 08:24 PM
Shtf45acp Shtf45acp is offline
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Thanks for the tip!!! I'll give them a call tomorrow.

As far as other snub nose I already have a 3" 625. I check gunbroker on the daily for 625 and haven't seen a 625-10 listed in quite some time.
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Old 08-28-2018, 09:23 PM
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If it is shorter it wouldn't be hard for a machinist to turn the shoulder on the barrel so that it would fit. You just need to find a gunsmith that has those kinds of skills and tools.
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Old 09-13-2018, 05:41 PM
Shtf45acp Shtf45acp is offline
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Ok so I figured I'd just update the post I started.

I picked up a 625-2 so the revolver would match me 625-3 with 3" barrel for the most part. I ordered the barrel for 625-10 from numerich and it should be here tomorrow or Saturday. The plan is to swap it on to the 625-2 and have a all stainless 625-10.

Now the barrel swap should be he simple part. The hard part will be the rear sight. I seen a thread posted on here from a few years ago and tried to reach out to the original poster but never received a response back. The problem with using the original rear sights is the front sight needs to be extremely tall.

I'm hoping to take out the notch for the sight elevation square screw and make a piece I can press fit in there. That way it will be more like the original 625-10 frame and sights and have good concealabilty. Possibly mill a shallow groove up the top of the frame to help the sights. I'm hoping I can get it to look something like this.





Anyway I thought I'd start a thread so I can get some tips, ideas, thoughts, and constructive criticism.











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Old 09-13-2018, 05:45 PM
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Here is the other 625-10 conversion. You see since the owner used the original N frame sights how tall the front sight needs to be. I'm hoping to change that.





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Old 09-13-2018, 07:01 PM
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The -10 doesn't have a sight that can be changed. Its milled out of the frame.

Just have to wait and see what I have in mind.
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Old 09-13-2018, 09:15 PM
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If you want to use the adjustable sights you can change the original rear sight blade to the shortest one that S&W offers. That will reduce the height requirement for the front sight. It will not be a huge change, but every bit helps

I have the 45 LC variation of that revolver


I have also bought some spare barrels because I want to do an adjustable sight version of the revolver. Like you I plan on using a steel 625 as the donor, but mine will be in 45 LC
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Old 09-13-2018, 09:43 PM
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I'm just going to make a piece I can slip in the rear. I was going to go with a cylinder & slide rear sight but they are way to high. I'm hoping by the time I fit the piece it will be almost like a J frame rear sight and just flow with the frame except it will be parkerized.
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Old 09-13-2018, 09:55 PM
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Here's mine on a British .455 frame.
1917a.jpg
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Old 09-13-2018, 09:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kernel Crittenden View Post
If it is shorter it wouldn't be hard for a machinist to turn the shoulder on the barrel so that it would fit. You just need to find a gunsmith that has those kinds of skills and tools.
If it was any shorter, it’d be a Lady Smith.
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Old 09-13-2018, 09:57 PM
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Yeah I love yours. We have talked several times about your snub nose.
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Old 09-13-2018, 10:17 PM
Shtf45acp Shtf45acp is offline
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The cool part though is it is a N frame and 45 acp!
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Old 09-14-2018, 02:34 AM
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Quote:
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...but from the pictures I've seen it looks like the 625-10 might possibly use a shorter cylinder? The gap between the crane and the cylinder looks to be larger then a standard 625.
The 625PC's cylinder length is ~ 1/8" shorter than the JM's/325/625 (1.425" vs. 1.540"). Maybe that's what they used on the 625-10?
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Old 09-14-2018, 01:44 PM
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Yeah I believe that is what it uses. Do you think I could call Smith and Wesson and buy one?
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Old 09-14-2018, 02:20 PM
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There is no reason that you can not use the cylinder that came with the 625 donor gun

Just shorten the barrel from the back and re-cut the forcing cone

This will allow you to set the B/C gap as tight as you want it
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Old 09-14-2018, 02:22 PM
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Yeah that's what I plan on doing. I'm going to rent the tools from 4D reamers to do it and while I have them I'll possibly touch up all my other 625 revolvers as well.
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Old 09-14-2018, 04:37 PM
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I saw a convention on this forum call Crowbar I believe. M28 frame removed rear sight to match lowered front sight
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Old 09-14-2018, 04:48 PM
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No offense folks, but I don't use the sights on my "snubbie" for defensive shooting. It's strictly a point and shoot pistol for inside of 5 yards. Feel free to disagree. S&W Model 60.
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Old 09-14-2018, 05:09 PM
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My lightweight 625-10 is a very good shooter but the aluminum crane would flex on me so I found a ss crane for it but had to make a spacer for it. I didn’t attempt to do the ball bearing. I carry it in the winter in a pocket holster.
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Old 09-14-2018, 06:45 PM
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I understand what you are saying about point and shoot especially for a snub nose. That is my goal but I'd like to have some kind of reference for sights at least.

My plan originally was to do something like this. Open up the top rear of the frame and whittle a little sight almost exactly like this one from Hamilton Bowen.





But I found that custom built revolver called "CROWBAR". WOW! I love what they did with it and would be much simpler for me to reproduce that work. I'm not sure how they did the serrations but I can probably figure it out. The only problem I have is it kind of looks unfinished because the original notch is still there for the factory rear adjustable sights. Maybe ramp the rear more and contour it into the frame so it flows better. Then run a shallow groove straight up the center of the frame strap to help with a better sight profile?



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Old 09-15-2018, 11:19 AM
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So the hammer and trigger showed up today. I found my hammer was ok but the trigger was definitely rounded off unsquare and causing the push off issue. I don't know if it can be stoned and fixed but the used trigger I bought off ebay fixed the push off issue. The only other thing I want to replace is the strain screw as it seems to be a little mushroomed. I looked at my other three 625 revolvers and all of them seem a little mushroomed and range from .475" to .500" in length.

The 625-10 barrel didn't show up like I was hoping but hopefully it does Monday. Then I can order rental tools from 4D and start the swap.





I also got the email from altamont the rosewood service grips I ordered will take about 2-4 weeks to receive due to wanting the s&w logo on them.

Last night I was looking around and found checkering files from gorbet. I'm hoping to order one and cut it down to match the width of the top frame groove and cut some serrations in it. I still havent decided to go with the "CROWBAR" style sight or the small piece bowen style sight.
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Old 09-15-2018, 03:24 PM
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Looks like you've got yourself quite a project there. We'll look forward to seeing the end result.
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Old 09-15-2018, 07:13 PM
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Late delivery from the mail man. He said he forgot it and dropped it off on his way home!





Anyway I come upon something weird! I lined up the barrel with the front of the frame and pushed it as far back as I could. It seems like it's going to install with no modifications at all! I should have to cut roughly a 1/8" off but by the looks of this it's already cut and forcing recut. I'll just have to set the cylinder gap once I swap the barrels. So I guess we'll see.



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Old 09-20-2018, 04:45 PM
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Well the action wrench I order from brownells showed up today and I got to take the 5" barrel off. I didn't completely install the new 625-10 barrel in but it should install with no problems. You can see the clocking is good at approximately 10-11 o'clock. Besides cutting down the ejector rod I think it will install perfectly. Here is some photos for the mean time.

I want to clean the top of the frame and check closely for a firing groove and then install the barrel. Then I'll begin working on sights before it goes in the blast cabinet for a factory matte finish using brownells 270 grit glass beads.





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Old 09-20-2018, 04:51 PM
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Quote:
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Besides cutting down the ejector rod I think it will install perfectly. Here is some photos for the mean time.
Why not just order the correct ejector rod, center pin and spring?

These are all current parts used on the 2" Model 327
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Old 09-20-2018, 04:59 PM
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Where can I find them? Last time I called Smith and Wesson support they were far from helpful. I didn't see it on midway unless I over looked it.
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Old 09-21-2018, 07:44 AM
Shtf45acp Shtf45acp is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by colt_saa View Post
Why not just order the correct ejector rod, center pin and spring?

These are all current parts used on the 2" Model 327
So after doing some more digging last night I found the extractor rod and center pin rom a 2 1/2" 66 686 will fit. From my measurements and other measurements I found on ebay the parts should put it right where it needs to be. I'll be ordering the new parts today from midwayusa and cross my fingers they are right.
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Old 09-21-2018, 09:43 PM
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I'm excited to see the outcome - especially if it happens you don't need to turn down the barrel!
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Old 09-21-2018, 09:45 PM
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I really don't think I'll have to turn the barrel down. The cylinder to barrel gap looks good as of now. I won't know till next week because the free shipping from midway said October 1st delivery date.
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Old 09-21-2018, 09:46 PM
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If it does work I'll be ordering a few more barrels lol
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Old 09-21-2018, 10:16 PM
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Quote:
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I'm looking at swapping the barrel on one of my 625-8 revolvers to a short snubby 625-10. I haven't ordered the barrel yet but from the pictures I've seen it looks like the 625-10 might possibly use a shorter cylinder? The gap between the crane and the cylinder looks to be larger then a standard 625.

I only have seen one 625-10 for sale on gunbroker and it went for quite a bit of money. Numrich sells a barrel for $75 so I figured I would try to convert one of my extra 625 5" revolvers.

Could anyone help me out before I order a barrel and waste the money and then not be able to do the swap? Thank you!
IF THE NUMERICH BARREL APPEARS TO BE THREADED SO THAT THE FORCING CONE END WILL PROTRUDE DEEP INTO THE WINDOW OF THE FRAME---I WOULD SAY THAT YOU WILL DEFINITELY NEED TO ORDER A SHORTER CYLINDER, IN ORDER TO MAKE YOUR CONVERSION WORK......
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Old 09-21-2018, 10:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldgunner43 View Post
No offense folks, but I don't use the sights on my "snubbie" for defensive shooting. It's strictly a point and shoot pistol for inside of 5 yards. Feel free to disagree. S&W Model 60.
I do all my draw and fire until the cylinder empty silhouette/training at 10 yards. Then pull my 2nd Revo and do the same, for time/splits especially when it's my primary "N" frame with a back-up "J" frame, or with 2 "J's". A "J" or "N" frame Snubbie, (or any other caliber of .38Special or greater), is Violence of Action tool and I treat them with great respect for what they are. You pull and fire as fast and as steady as possible into the pelvis or navel area.

Snubbies are more than capable of solid (50-Yard) chimes with 10" Width X 24" Wide silhouette gong shots, & with somewhat ease. But I too must admit when I pull mine on target I'm only focusing on the front sight 95% of the time! YMMV...
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Old 09-21-2018, 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by one eye joe View Post
IF THE NUMERICH BARREL APPEARS TO BE THREADED SO THAT THE FORCING CONE END WILL PROTRUDE DEEP INTO THE WINDOW OF THE FRAME---I WOULD SAY THAT YOU WILL DEFINITELY NEED TO ORDER A SHORTER CYLINDER, IN ORDER TO MAKE YOUR CONVERSION WORK......
I've already got it to work. I don't know if numerich has cut the barrels down already or what the deal is but it worked with my current cylinder.
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  #35  
Old 09-22-2018, 06:48 PM
Shtf45acp Shtf45acp is offline
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So I've completely installed the barrel today. It went nice a smooth. The barrel got hand tight around 10 o'clock and I just brought it the rest of the way around to 12 o'clock. I made a mark on the barrel and the frame to what looked straight. I then kept drawing it tighter and tighter till the marks lined up and making sure not to go to far so I didn't have to loosen it. It looks great. Everything lined up nicely. I put the cylinder in with out the extractor rod and center pin. The barrel to cylinder clearance is right at .002" to .003" on all the cylinders. Now I know this might change once the extractor rod and center pin are installed so as of now I'm going to wait for those parts before I decide to cut the barrel or use bushings to set the gap. Here are a few pictures. It looks amazing!









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Old 09-22-2018, 08:14 PM
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Nice job on that. I have never understood a large frame gun with a tiny barrel,but then again there are no critters here that we really need to carry a large caliber to handle. Looks good so far and am looking forward to seeing the completed project.
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Old 09-23-2018, 09:11 AM
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From that picture, it looks like the barrel could go just a smidge more tight to line up. Does S&W use any instrument to check for 12 o'clock? From the manufacturing standpoint it looks like a difficult operation to control.
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Old 09-23-2018, 09:51 AM
Shtf45acp Shtf45acp is offline
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You know I think the same thing but it's really hard to tell because the barrel is polished. I think sometimes my OCD gets the best of me and I'm probably going to wait to move it anymore till I blast the gun and it will be entirely a matte finish.
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Old 09-23-2018, 10:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 67ray View Post
From that picture, it looks like the barrel could go just a smidge more tight to line up. Does S&W use any instrument to check for 12 o'clock? From the manufacturing standpoint it looks like a difficult operation to control.
Judging by the number of new S&Ws leaving the factory with off kilter barrels I think they just eyeball them and call it good.
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Last edited by WC145; 09-23-2018 at 10:24 AM.
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Old 09-23-2018, 10:32 AM
Shtf45acp Shtf45acp is offline
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That is exactly what they do. There is a video I posted somewhere of a tour through the performance center facility and they show a guy assembling a revolver. He used what looked like a C wrench and tightened the barrel and then eyeballed it.
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Old 09-27-2018, 12:47 PM
Shtf45acp Shtf45acp is offline
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It took a few weeks but my altamont classic panel grips showed up today. I had them add the laser logo I guess that's the reason for the wait. They look beautiful! This is my fourth set of altamont grips and I absolutely love them. The fit is better then ahreands and I believe the finish is too.

Still waiting on the extractor parts from midway but they should be here any day now.



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Old 09-28-2018, 02:27 PM
Shtf45acp Shtf45acp is offline
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So a big thank you to colt saa for suggesting to use factory parts for the extractor. I ordered a extractor rod and center pin for a S&W Model 66 with 2 1/2" barrel. They fit just about perfect and have the factory knurl which makes it look even better an further hides the fact of a conversion. I used the original springs and extractor. I also picked up a serrated trigger off ebay cheap and installed that as well. Figured with such a small snub nose in a defensive situation some extra traction on the trigger would really be helpful in double action.





Now with being able to lock it up securely with having the extractor rod and center pin installed I can check a few other things. The barrel alignment looks reall good. This also brought out a problem. There is no end shake at all. So the barrel in fact will need to be cut down just a hair and I guess possibly the forcing cone. I can only operate the hammer on one cylinder. The rest all bind up a soon as the cylinder comes unlock from the lug on the bottom.

Idk if I should attempt this with a file or rent the appropriate tools from 4d. Any thoughts? It isn't much. I can rotate the cylinder by hand but trying to operate the cylinder by the gun isn't easy at all.
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Old 09-28-2018, 03:08 PM
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I just re-read your first post....what exactly is a "spare" 610 ?

As to how to trim the barrel down, they do it with a file at the factory. I'd say a very fine file and take your time with it. get it close, then follow up with a coarse Arkansas stone to give it a good finish.You could even go fine if you wanted it really smooth .And of course keep it 90 degrees .
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Old 09-28-2018, 03:30 PM
Shtf45acp Shtf45acp is offline
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I do have fine files so I'll give it a shot.

As far as the spare..... I keep a look out for 625 revolvers. I guess to have a complete collection I still need a 625 pre lock 5" and 4" I don't believe they make a 3" with a lock so I'm at a loss there.

I just love 45 acp hence my user name. I'm also in love with 1911 and I'm gearing up to start reloading my own ammunition and picking up a 460 rowland conversion for one of them soon.
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Old 09-28-2018, 07:22 PM
Shtf45acp Shtf45acp is offline
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Sat down with my file and slowly worked the back of the barrel. So far I have the gap opened up to .0025" to .003". It still hangs up just a hair on one cylinder. It only does it when I cock the hammer in single action. Double action is pretty good and I don't feel the hang up at all.
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Old 09-28-2018, 09:56 PM
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Nice work ! The 625 is on my want list, I never see any in this area. i have seen a good many auctions with them but they generally go for a decent price. Add in shipping and my FFL fees to receive and transfer and it makes it pretty pricey.
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Old 09-28-2018, 09:59 PM
Shtf45acp Shtf45acp is offline
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Yeah the most expensive on I bought was the 3". The 4" and 5" I got for less then $700 but they are noth mim lock guns. Oh well doesn't bother me.
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Old 09-28-2018, 10:28 PM
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My only question is in regards to the front lockup - you don't have one anymore. Are you going to put in a ball detent in the yoke like the -10 has?
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Old 09-28-2018, 10:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kernel Crittenden View Post
If it is shorter it wouldn't be hard for a machinist to turn the shoulder on the barrel so that it would fit. You just need to find a gunsmith that has those kinds of skills and tools.
I AGREE, KC. ALMOST ANYTHING CAN BE DONE WITH THE PROPER SKILLS AND TOOLS......
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Old 09-28-2018, 11:00 PM
Shtf45acp Shtf45acp is offline
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Yes, just havent gotten that far yet. All I need to do is drill a hole in the front of the yoke. Then insert a spring and ball bearing then stake the hole. There is already a notch on the barrel to lock the detent into.

Next up is test firing. I'm not sure if I'll get to it this weekend but I definitely will next weekend. Once I have run a few moon clips through it I'll be starting on the sights.

I also ordered a novak cut 1911 .375" tall blank front sight. I need to open the front dovetail up to 3/8" since it has a weird 1/4" dovetail from the factory. I'll be making a small piece for the rear sight like I posted above. Then I want to cut serrations on the top of the frame where the original sight sat. After that is all done I'll bead blast the entire gun and parkerize the sight pieces. Then it will be fnished.
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