Hi All,

I'm considering the purchase of a new ccw and looked at the 637 PC at the LGS. I like the balance and action yet am concerned about the hammer spur. I looked up the 642 PC and it looks the same as the 637 without the spur, the LGS doesn't have one in stock. Are these the same revolvers in terms of grip and action?

Is there anything else I should consider? I want to stay with the Performance Center. I have a 627 PC and wonder about the stubby version and the stubby 327 PC for EDC.

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Paul
Sandusky Bay, OH

Most grips are the same unless you get something like the Hogue Tamer. They have a Centinal designation because the 642 / 442 is a little taller in the hammer area. Other than the internal hammer it’s the same gun. (I believe) I have a 37 that I Bobbed the hammer. I don’t know what that may do to your warranty.

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Two Handguns every day

Well, they're both J frames. My guess is trigger pull might feel different between the two. But that is the case even within the same model. But basically yeah, they're pretty much the same gun but one has a hump and exposed hammer spur and the other one has not quite a hump but a squared off enclosed hammer. Both 5 shots, same size grip.

Either way you go, you'll probably have wanted the other one. LOL. So I say get both. Sometimes it's nice having the ability to do single action. Sometimes it's nice to not have that.

Look at the 640 pro series.

The 642 is the more logical choice for civilian self-defense. There is simply no realistic need for single-action capabilty, especially considering you would be trading away the enclosed hammer design, which offers numerous benefits on a personal defense weapon.

Buy a second hammer. Bob one hammer and keep the original spurred hammer. It is not that hard to exchange the hammers.

For info,

There currently are more than one Performance Center 642:
Enhanced Action: PERFORMANCE CENTER(R) Model 642 Enhanced Action | Smith & Wesson

"Pro": Performance Center(R) Pro Series(R) Model 642 | Smith & Wesson

637 Enhanced Action: PERFORMANCE CENTER(R) Model 637 Enhanced Action | Smith & Wesson

What I don't know is how different the "Enhanced Action' models feel and what's actually been done to them.

I do know there are various spring kits on the market for J-frames which can change the feel and lighten the trigger pulls. Further polishing of the rebound slide can also help with the feel. This will involve the owner or someone to install the springs.

The "Pro" model doesn't seem to have any "action" work done from what I can tell.

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66/642/640/627/586/60/638/686

I own all of the models in question. Frankly, I buy J-frames simply "because they're there." It is difficult to determine whether the PC models are superior to the standard models. Much rests upon the individual weapon. To me, they all perform about the same: I can place 5 +P rounds on a half-sheet of typing paper at 7 yards without any difficulty.

The unlamented Wyatt Deep Cover 637 PC models of several years ago have IMO superior DAs and I consider them slick carry pieces. The later 442 PC 'choo-pinto' models are less finely finished, at least the ones I own, while other members report no difficulty with theirs. Again, the individual item becomes the determining factor.

Having survived the SNS-hate period of the late 70s, I find it reasonable to own more than one copy of each snub model "because they're there." Which reminds me, I only own one 638...

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103
J-hound extraordinaire

Thank you to everyone who replied. I would like to have one of each yet, at this time, my wallet doesn't support a multiple purchase. I'm looking at the PC version because of the better trigger. In the different revolvers I've tried, this has always been the case, very smooth and clean break. This is the reason I purchased the 627 PC. I will probably swap the wood grip to the Hogue.

I do like the idea of purchasing the extra hammer for the 637 and bobbing, that would preserve any residual value should it ever be sold.

I'm now leaning toward the 642 PC and will try to find a range where I can fire an example. Clelland's in Toledo may have the non-PC version on their gun wheel, I'll give them a call.

Again, Thank You,

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Paul
Sandusky Bay, OH

Not sure the price difference from the standard model to the PC version.

But if you are willing to bob the hammer and or install a bobbed hammer. You may want to simply buy the Apex duty carry kit for the smith J frame. I did this for my wifes 642 and significantly improved the trigger feel and weight. Yet it retains sufficient pull weight to keep it a good self defense trigger. If you have the side plate off and take out the trigger to replace with a bobbed hammer. You are about 80% or more of rhe way to what you need to do to install the Apex duty carry kit. And the dity carry kit was NOT very expensive! Lots of videos out there on how to do all of this yourself!

To give example of the difference the Apex kit made. My wifes 642 went from being heavier than the stock Ruger LCR, to being smoother and maybe even a touch lighter than the LCR trigger. This was nust my experience and compared without a true pull weight gauge. Just my preception comparing before and after side by side with my wifes 642 and my daughters LCR. YMMV

I several J frames, a 70's vintage Model 60, two 642's that I had a local gunsmith install Wolff Springs and polish the action, and over the weekend I picked up a very nice used 638. The action on the 638 is perfectly acceptable for a defensive revolver.

The thing I see some people do is try and make a J frame a "match grade" gun expecting a 4 pound trigger pull. Even if for could get it to 4 pounds, you really do not want to in a defensive carry revolver. From personal experience I know if you have to use a firearm to defend yourself, a 6-8 pound trigger pull will be no problem at all.

I think the Apex advertises the duty carry kit will result in about 6 lbs.

That's light. I'm skeptical of apex kits. I hear of people getting light primer strikes. But I"ve never heard of the "duty kit".

Honestly, 6 lbs is too light for a DA revolver, IMHO.

Which are better the Apex spring kits or the Wilsons?

I put Wolff springs in mine and polished the surfaces on the frame and rebound slide ( I left the stock mainspring in it and reduced the rebound spring ). That brought the trigger weight down to a more comfortable level while still being heavy enough for a self defense gun and was not at all expensive. It also smoothed the action up considerably.

FlyingFool was right in that if you are wiling to change the hammer you're a good portion of the way there to changing the springs and doing a little polishing.

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1st smiles,lies.Last,gunfire.

I just meant I think it's best to leave it stock. I wouldn't know if there is anything better than apex. I know some people have good luck with them. But I've also seen more than a few times people say they get ignition problems after installing an apex kit.

Hi All,
Just to close this out, I was not able to find a 642 to test fire. I returned to the LGS and they had the 642 in normal and PC form as well as the 637 in both. The PC trigger is much better in both so it came down to exposed or unexposed hammer. I went with the 642 PC. I also purchased a Hogue grip to get the pinky some grip.

Compared to the trigger on my LCR .38 it is a wonder. I'm going to sell the LCR and get another J, probably the 637, when I get some extra $$.

Thanks for all of the advice, it helped.

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Paul
Sandusky Bay, OH

The only advantage the LCR has (in my opinion) is the option of easily changing the front sight. Other than that, I much prefer the J frame.

I think you'll like the 642.

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Centennial Every Day

Because of the frame shape you can hold higher up on the frame resulting in a lower bore axis with better control.

The Performance Center customer service told me the trigger is smoother and about 3 pounds lighter. My wife is very comfortable with it.
Sportman's Outdoor Superstore has them for $390. PN 10186.

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Tom

The 642/442 guns lack an internal component which is part of the safety system for single action guns to prevent accidental discharge.

This component serves NO purpose on double action only guns and in my opinion the lack of it improves the trigger and also improves reliability.

The ONLY part to ever break for me in 20 years use of J-frames is that part. S&W fixed it free of charge and did slick up my trigger and ratchet star for free, but my revolver was down. It failed on the 2nd click of dry firing with snap caps.

I am leaning toward a 442 next time if they make a 442 PC or maybe a 442 Pro!

Though I too will look at a 642 PC and a 637 PC.

I've always had a strong preference for SA, and currently own three 637-2s.
All three with titanium cylinders and two also converted to 9mm.
SA trigger is about 1.5 pounds. DA pull is pretty heavy, but smooth.
I invariably shoot SA.

Great choice sir. Something else to think about is if you ever buy a J frame, standard or PC version, I have always dry fired mine at ;east 3000 times before carrying it and then take it to the range for a session of practice with my carry ammo. I know this sounds like allot of dry firing but you can do it in a few days pulling the trigger 100 times at a time. I can tell you that my standard triggers on my 442/M&P340 & 640 Pro have sweetened up very nice. Anytime you can get trigger time on your j frames, do it. Dry fire practice serves both in that you get trigger control practice and it will begin to smooth out the internal parts of your j frame. I know it has worked on the 3 I currently have and my last 640 as well.

I think you chose well. Every PC revolver I've ever fondled did have a better trigger than stock. And I think the heaviest triggers I've ever felt on a smith was a 637. My 442's is about the second heaviest I've ever felt. I would have not have chosen it, but I bought it from my Mom when my Step Dad passed cuz she needed the money. I still shoot it rather well for how heavy the trigger is. It has gotten a little lighter and a little smoother with shooting, dry firing and I let some clp run down in there from the trigger to help lube the action.

But this is neither here nor there since you got a really nice trigger! We need pics though. Or it didn't actually happen. hehehehe

Thanks Eagle1*, I never thought about this for a revolver. I've racked my semi-autos a few hundred times before taking them to the range, this gets the slide smoothed down and greatly reduces the chance of a eject/feed problem. I started this with the first new Ruger LCP I purchased. I cleaned it before going to the range and had several feed problems. I called Ruger and the tech I got suggested that I rack it 200 - 300 times, clean it and try again. Never had another problem. I'll give the 642 some exercise.

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Paul
Sandusky Bay, OH