Hey everybody, new member here. I have just discovered the Model 10 Classic; and it perfectly fits the bill of what I want in a revolver. I plan to purchase one in the next few months (first handgun).
I’ve dealt with rifles and shotguns most all my life; but have never extensively dealt with any handgun (outside of an old Iver Johnson SA of my dad’s with which I learned the rudiments of revolver work). I have a friend with an older Mdl 10, and he has told me when I get it, to load 158 grn LSWCHP. Is this still the standard loading for a revolver like the 10 ? I have several concerns with this. I know S&W is of good quality; and if I take care of the revolver, it’ll take care of me; but do the fixed sight shoot to point of aim ? Is the Classic of all steel construction ? Instead of me asking a million questions, is there a Model 10 thread somewhere on here that could help me ?

You have made a good choice. The Model 10 is a great handgun. Smith has been making that gun for a long time and for good reason.

The fixed sights generally shoot to point of aim with 158gr .38s. At typical defense distances, it will shoot close enough with just about any commercial load.

135 grain Speer gold dots

158 grain lswchp

Good to go

Enjoy!

Welcome to the Forum, BobJoe.

You probably shook the hornet's nest with questions on the Model 10, the good news is you are in the right place for as many answers as you can handle.

I'm pretty sure you are referring to the New Classic Series production in your OP, but you will see that the Model 10 is the quintessential Military & Police revolver of all time and many "classic" examples of it are available on the used market.

Your friends advice about 158 Grain ammo is good advice, the sights are regulated to POA with that standard load.

You can utilize the "Search" feature at the top of the page to search out posts on your favorite topic.

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Tony

Would be hard pressed to have made a better choice than a Model 10 for your first handgun.

Thanks for the quick reply everybody.

@malph @adwjc thanks for the tips on the sights
@eb07 thanks for the load recommendations
@Zipdog I thought the same. Even a child can use a Mdl10

On training for defensive purposes, are there any drills specific to a revolver ? I’ve found dozens, if not hundreds of semi-auto drills; but the well is very near dry on revolver drills. I’ve always heard the 3x3x3 drill is sufficient (3 shots at 3 steps in 3 seconds on a 3x3 target), but that just sounds... underwhelming. This will not be solely a CCW gun, but an ‘everywhere’ gun. Town, woods, house, church, tractor... everywhere.

I’m in Mississippi, so our gun laws are very lax compared to most other states. Anyways, I will come by snap caps (I don’t believe in dry firing any firearm if it can be helped) to help w/ flinch and trigger control. Any other training advice (other than several thousand rounds of practice) ? Draw/presentation can be practiced almost anywhere, at almost any time; so I have no excuse to not have a quick draw and good presentation (especially from an open carry holster).

Last question (for now). I know gun makers across the board have been lowered the standard of manufacture m, replacing steel w/ MIM, aluminum with plastic, etc, etc. . Are there any parts in the 10 Classic that are MIM that should concern me ? How difficult is the 10 to ‘Smith on (with me being not particularly mechanically inclined) ? I can field strip a mil-spec 1911 in a quick bit, and detail strip one given enough time (friend showed me how to pass time in the deer woods); but I get the feeling that a quality revolver is something you take to a trusted gunsmith.

Not sure of the logic of buying a new classic for 700 bucks when for that money you could buy two good condition used model tens that are true classics with the non mim hammer and trigger and no frame mounted lock.

Do not concern yourself about the MIM parts in the newer model 10s. They have proven themselves to be reliable since they were introduced in the late 1990s.

Expect the trigger pull, especially the DA trigger pull, to improve over the first thousand rounds.

If you want to be able to work on the gun, get yourself a copy of the Kuhnhausen S&W revolver shop manual.

Although I'm not a fan of MIM parts, they're unlikely to cause you any trouble. If you want to open your 10 up to see what's going on in there, make sure the screwdriver fits the screws on the sideplate and don't try to pry it off. Once the screws are out and grips are off, whack the side of the grip frame about half-way down with the handle end of the screwdriver. The plate will pop up. It might take two or three whacks.

Brownell's has a multi-tip screwdriver specifically for S&W screws.

I am going to send you to my go to guy on revolver work .Check out Grant Cunninghams site just google his name . He has some of the most definitive work on revolvers out there .As for drills if you truly want to learn gun fighting with the revolver find an older retired cop who carried one on duty and get him to coach you . Enjoy your new gun and let us know how it is working out for you.

The heart wants what the heart wants, but if you really want a K-frame I would suggest for a slight upcharge get the 66-8 2.75". Superior lock up system, target sights, two piece barrel that is accurate as heck, will swallow any 38 or 357 load with aplomb.

This is truly great advice and worth considering. There have been millions of these made so they are not hard to find used and in great condition. The action and fitting on most of these older ones are wonderful. Try to get back to the models that have pinned barrels if you go this route. Good luck!

I agree, but I would go a step further and suggest you look at a Model 64 or 65.

Same classic gun but stainless steel, so rust is much less a concern and the finish can be easily touched up if (when?) it gets scratched or dinged.

Mod 65 is .357 Mag so it's even more versatile, but either is a great gun.

Part of the benefit of being chambered in .38 Spl is that it *may* not be just me shooting it. If I should have to defend my home or person, and I should for whatever reason become incapacitated or incapable of wielding the Model 10, my mother/sister/niece/anyone can pick up that revolver and use it, relatively well.
I could handle .357 loads. My female/older family members can not. The .38 is recoil-light enough to encourage practice for myself, if not at least familiarity and basic competence for family. I hope it never has to be used in SD, but if it should happen, I take a measure of comfort in knowing that should the need arise, most all of my family could handle the weapon.

Make no mistake- it is my firearm, and I intend to get all of the several hundred dollars of payment out of it in enjoyment and use.
I neither want nor hope for violence, but to not be vigilant, to not be prepared, to not be capable of defending yourself and your loved ones; to me it is the height of folly.

A good used M10 (pinned) will serve you well and have the allure of a genuine time tested classic, good resale value too. Good choice as far as first S&W model and nothing wrong with a new one either. Win win situation

Continue your research. 357 is just a stretched 38 case. There's no issue with shooting 38s in a 357 revolver.

Where in MS are you? I love my model 10, but it's an older one.

My recommendations align with the crowd. The model 10 is a great revolver and a great platform with the .38/k frame. I have owned several:
2" Model 64
4" model 64 DAO
4" pre-model 10 M&P
4" model 10-8

I'd seriously consider a used example as plenty can be found of both the 10 and 64. I'd consider the 64 if you plan on carrying it a lot just for the corrosion resistance, my DAO version is a joy to shoot and spot on with most commercial loads. My model 10-8 I got for $300 and it was like new when I bought it (about three years ago). The 64 DAO I got for $200 this past year, service trade in but cleaned up real nice. You can find a great example with the barrel length of your choice plus a good bit of ammo for the price of a new one. I literally purchased a model 10-8 nickel plated 3" for $525 ten minutes ago that is in 98% condition (according to the seller). These used revolvers have better parts, finish, and the triggers have already had the chances to smooth out in many cases.

Just my thoughts and experiences.

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My 4” 64 is probably my favorite revolver. I shoot the snot out of it. I have several other and nicer revolvers but the 10/64 is hard to beat for all around use, as you intend. Mine was a police turn in but is very solid mechanically. Paid $200 for it with the old rubber pachmeyer grips on it. I put the Altamont silver black targets on it because I have big hands.

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1SG, USA (Ret)

Thanks everybody for all your help. Is there anything I need to know about cleaning and maintening a Model 10 that a YouTube video won’t show me ?

Bore brush/snake down the barrel w/ solvent, followed by patches until clean, then a lightly oiled patch. Clean around the forcing cone and firing pin with solvent and toothbrush; clean the chambers in the cylinder each the same as the bore; cleaning under and around the ejector ‘star’; drop of oil down the hammer into the guts if it needs it; then wipe the revolver down with a clean rag ?

I consider that a basic but solid cleaning regimen. The only thing different I do is if I'm purchasing a used revolver, I do pull the slide plate and do a full cleaning/lubrication job. Plenty of YouTube videos to assist with this as well. If you plan to strip the revolver just make sure you have good screw drivers and utilize the appropriate head to not strip or bugger the screw heads. That happens easier than you'd think!Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

I carried some version of the Model 10 through the first 20 years of my career and keep a Model 10 snub (former issued weapon) as my home defense gun today. They don’t come any better.

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Old Cop
LEO (Ret.)

Your cleaning methods sound good to me. Heck I have bought a few used S&W revolvers that look like they had not been ever cleaned in the past 30 to 40 years and they still worked great. A lot of satisfaction taking an old dirty one and cleaning back up to look like new. That is one of my favorite parts of buying used revolvers. So you just go buy a model 10 or model 64 (same exact gun only in stainless steel) or buy a new classic series- what ever you feel most comfortable with buying. Then you will not regret it and I am sure you will get your hundreds of dollars of enjoyment from it. I'm sure you will. Enjoy!

Can't remember if I said this yet, but I don't think you can go wrong with a model 10.

Having said that, I don't actually have one, but I want one. I do have a K frame though.

The Smith & Wesson Model 10 is the Poster Boy for the Police Service Revolver. Unfortunately, that term is seldom used today with most police departments adopting autoloaders for duty use. I believe everyone's first handgun should be the model 10 and fortunately, there have been enough made to make that a reality. Good luck with whatever 10 you choose!

I totally agree with this. In the last 4 or 5 months, I have bought many FINE revolvers either in the for sale forum, or the want to buy forum. Many have been 40 YO guns still NIB. If y
you want the heavy barrel version, advertise for it in want to buy. You said in the next few months so you have time and you can enjoy the hunt. As for the fixed sights, they are just fine. One of my finest guns ever was a 65-1 which is a stainless model 10 so to speak, same sights and frame, just in 357 mag, but you can still shoot 38's. If you like or do not mind stainless, look for a model 65-1. As you know the dash numbers represent revisions. I am not sure which model is most desirable in a model 10. maybe someone on this site could suggest a model 10-? as being the most desirable in a vintage gun. But, having said that, you have picked a fine gun. Real older model 10's do not have the heavy barrel, which I think is a big plus. Personally, I am soon going to start beating the bush for a model 65-1. Good luck

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Pete
I ain't no fortunate son

I have a model 10 Classic 4" heavy barrel I purchased used about a year and a half ago. Very little use, with a speed loader and a box of ammo, no box or factory literature. Very nice shooter, good trigger, nice finish. For $275.00 face to face from a known to me fine young man. Shortly thereafter saw a new one in a gun shop in Santa Fe for $585.00

Thanks everyone for all your help. Still in the process of scrimping and saving; so it will be a few months. Good thing is, I can refer back to this thread. Back on topic; how many rounds do you put downrange in one range session w/ a Mdl 10 ?

Never more than one or two hundred rounds...

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CPT, Armor (Ret)
Luke 22:36

As many as you can afford! I typically shoot 50-150 depending upon my budget, time and how many other guns I brought to shoot!Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

Any recommendations for breaking it in ?

Clean it well. There are videos on Midway's website and elsewhere. Get some snap caps and practice dry-firing...a lot. Then, shoot it...a lot. Since it's a double action revolver, it shouldn't need much "break in" time. Mostly, you need to get comfortable with it. The cleaning is to get any guns and debris left over from the manufacturing process out of the gun.

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CPT, Armor (Ret)
Luke 22:36