I just bought a used Model 60 no dash. Gave it a quick inspection and function check with the seller. He said he was selling it to help fund utilities for his new property. Nice new holster and crimson laser grips. Those are going bye bye.... Someone here recently said he's bought several used guns and never had bubba problems.

Well, that person is lucky. Cleaned the **** out of this thing and put it back together. I didn't remove the internals, sprayed G96 down and used compressed air. Everything going smooth until I put the yoke screw back in. Then she bound the cylinder. It wouldn't swing out all the way. I started to force it, but thought better. Thought it might be a bent ejector rod, but this one is pretty short. Went to remove the crane screw and after a couple of turns the cylinder drop freely. Thought the screw was too long so I compared it to my Model 36's screw. Nope! matter of fact it's shorter. Then I remembered cleaning the hole for that screw and thought it had a lot of loctite in there. Didn't think anything of it. If I back the screw out a few turns then it frees everything up. It was tight when i initially removed it(loctite!). Upon further inspection I feel a little forward movement. Compared it to my model 36 and it noticeably less on the 36. Obviously this cat that sold me the gun knew about this. I'm pass that and will not be talking to him as of now. I even slid my crane from my 36 in the 60 frame and same thing. binds up when you tighten the screw.

Going to bed now tired and mad. Hopefully after work tomorrow I can attempt to put this back together and find the problem.

Could it be as simple as someone buggered up the screw and replaced it with a longer screw and didn't fit it? Are the screws shorter on the Model 60s circa 1979-1980 than my Model 63 circa 71-72? I know, I should have just dropped my mic in the hole and measured.

I did notice the o/d of the bottom of the screw if fatter compared to my 36's screw. The yoke also has some witness marks from the screw on the flat at the very end where the screw is making contact.

Just tried caliper stem is too fat. oh well. Tomorrow....

Check the other screws to see if one was fit and is shorter than the other.He may or may not have known as many people never remove the screws from their revolvers.They just clean the cylinder without removing them from the gun.

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1st smiles,lies.Last,gunfire.

If I'm understanding what you're saying - the forward screw above the trigger area "binds" the yoke when you tighten it, making the movement of the yoke stiff as you open or close the cylinder - that's not that big of a deal.
First, are you absolutely sure that you put the right one in there? The two domed screws look an awful lot alike. Try the other one anyway, just to be sure.
I've been known to polish or even use some very fine grit sandpaper on the end of a replacement screw or three to get that yoke moving smoothly. A few strokes and try the fit, repeat until happy. (I don't know if this is an "accepted" method, but hey, it's always worked for me. Apologies to the real gunsmiths around here.)
I wouldn't get too worked up either way. This is about as minor, and common, a problem that I've ever had. Now, if the timing were off or something, you might have a case. This you can fix if necessary. G'nite!

Tried that already. I use a index card for my screws so I don't mix them up. Thought maybe previous owner did mix them up, but no glory on that. I'll wait till tomorrow and if I don't get any more advise I start shorting the screw. I did notice the o/d of the bottom of the screw if fatter compared to my 36's screw. The yoke also has some witness marks from the screw on the flat at the very end where the screw is making contact.

Back about 10 years ago I got a great deal on a 1980 Model 60 on consignment at my LGS/indoor range because the cylinder was hard to swing out and would bind. I knew the dealer I said something to him and he said, "Yeah, but ain't taking it apart and foolin' with it." Well, everything else check out and the price was really, really great, so I bought it. Turned out it was a combination of a burr on the yoke and the screw appeared to be a new standard side plate screw. So, after I found and knocked the little burr off with my knife blade and shaped the tip of the screw, I had a lovely well timed 1980 Model 60 that swung out nicely and locked up tight.


IIRC, the sharp squared off tip of the screw was making contact with the angled area of the yoke shaft. I always suspected that the previous owner buggered up the orginal screw and replaced it with a standard non fitted side plate screw. I suggest that before you go shortening the screw, use a file or stone and shape/round the tip a little bit.


HTH . . . good luck.

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1st Signal Brigade, RVN '70

Bob, you've got a PM.

Well, while I was lying in bed acting like I was sleeping.....I tried to fall asleep, but had to wrap my head around this. I conclude that the yoke screw is the same size as the bottom side plate screw. Which I assume has longer threads than the original yoke screw. I believe that the threads are coming below the frame and into the yoke. Since that's where the witness marks are. Yes I also had a burr there. So I already planned on removing a couple threads for testing and hopefully fixing it. You reply tells me I'm on the right track.

A couple threads seems excessive. Maybe just knock the end down a bit with a file. And definitely test it after the burr before doing any filing.

Thanks for the advise. I've been researching this and a little goes a long way. Take a little, check, take a little and recheck...etc.

Ok, I've been looking at this purchase wrong. It was a rescue. That's how I should look at it. I fitted the Yoke screw this evening. It was a bit of a learning experience. Time consuming and tedious, but it was gratifying. The yoke now swings freely. I dressed all the edges on the button and she's good to go. Except now I get to address a little end shake. Heavy sigh. It's not the yoke moving, just wanted to clarify that...lol. The good thing is the timing is pretty darn good. I'll polish the scratches, put some magnas on it and top it off with this Tyler grip adapter I picked up. She'll be ready to go then and if I ever sell it, someone is going to get the bill for all this work and anxiety....lol.

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Whew.... when you said something about the threads, I almost yelled, "NOOOOOOO!!!"
Sounds like you got it. That screw is what holds the yoke in the frame, so a "little" contact is OK.
End shake might be a little more difficult... do you have a gunsmithing background? I have no problem messing with some things, but there's a whole lot more that's better off getting fixed by the experts. I really suggest getting it evaluated at a minimum to see if it's within specifications.
Good luck!

I have a little experience in gunsmithing. I'm not a pro, but have built a 1911 that I used in three gun. I brought back to life a Colt New Service parts gun. I made it into a Big Bore Belly Gun. That was a fun project. I've done some other projects as well. I look forward to solving this one as well. Thanks for your concern. I will defer if I find myself in over my head.

I see you're here in AZ... around PHX? I'm in San Tan Valley. If you're ever interested in trading or something, look me up.

The original owner probably lost the original yoke screw, picked up one from Midway without fitting it; and then realized it doesn't work that way. It's not a plug n' play part 100% of the time. Then he sold it without telling you, which is BS..

As to the endshake.. that's a little more complicated but nothing that needs to go back to Smith for. There are many good Youtube video's on how to fix end shake. Power Customs sells the 2 thousandths and 4 thousandths bearings/washers. See exactly how much the endshake is and then you'll know where you are at and what to buy bearing wise. This little revolver will be a gem once you get this last little flaw fixed!

The end shake is something that needs to be measured correctly. Most of our revolvers display a bit off endshake and rotational play when the hammer is down and the cylinder is closed. Cock the hammer, then check these things. Things should be more solidly locked up since the gun is ready to fire. If things are too tight with the hammer down, the action might bind during the process of cocking the hammer, either single or double action. Make certain that endshake is out of spec before taking any action!

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So long ... Ken

. I appreciate your words of wisdom. I'm buying some better feeler gauges tomorrow. I'll be glad to provide measurements. The movement is obvious. The cylinder barely makes contact with the forcing cone when pushed forward, but it does.

Sometimes the end of the barrel/forcing cone is not quite square and this can cause problems. None of these things are difficult to deal with, but experience dealing with them is important as well as the knowledge about how to measure and make repairs correctly. I’ve been in over my head a time or two and I have learned to recognize when I need professional help. Doing so first is usually cheaper than after I have gone too far!

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So long ... Ken