I bought one of the old French police revolvers from Bud’s last month, a 64-7 with a 4” barrel. It’s got wear on it for sure, but an outstanding shooter. There’s just one nagging little problem, and I’m sure someone on here can help.

When swinging the cylinder out to reload, there’s a distinct metal-on-metal grind before the cylinder can clear the window. The cylinder requires an extra push to come out, and there’s a noticeable “pop” when it frees itself. Definitely unlike any of my other Smith wheelguns.

I’ve read as many similar threads here as I could find, and tried a few remedies, so here’s what I’ve tried/observed:

- I took the cylinder assembly apart and gave everything a thorough cleaning and some very light oil. All parts appear to be working as they should and there’s nothing under the extractor star.

- The extractor rod was not bent, but I replaced it anyway just to be safe, as the original was pretty haggered looking, maybe even bubba’d. The problem persists.

- The center pin does not appear bent or damaged.

- The locking bolt (at the end of the barrel) doesn’t appear damaged or excessively worn.

- The crane does not appear to be bent or damaged.

- The cylinder release bolt (I think that’s what it’s called, it’s the internal counterpart to the cylinder release) appears perfectly flush with the frame when the cylinder release is forward, just like on all my other revolvers.

I’m at a point now where it seems like something to do with the center pin; I suspect it’s not being pushed far enough out by the cylinder release bolt to clear that area, and/or not far enough out to clear the locking bolt and let the ejector rod out. On the other hand, I’ve been looking at it so much I could be missing something that could be completely obvious. That’s where my forum friends come in. :-)

Any ideas what’s wrong with it?

Did you fit the new extractor rod?

Replacement extractor rod fitting

and thanks to Kenneth07ex

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On the whistle draw and fire 6

So why did you accept a defective revolver from Buds? You could have sent it back before signing for it.

I didn’t even know that was a thing... should the center pin protrude PAST the end of the ejector rod when the cylinder end is pressed with a flat piece of metal? I’m not sure I understood the way it was written in that thread. If this is the case, I’m assuming the old jacked up ejector rod was also not fitted, as the problem is identical between the old and new rods...

Had it come with a major problem I’d be right there with you. But I like guns for lots of reasons. If something I bought as a range gun turns into a project and a learning experience, then I get to enjoy it more than I expected. :-)

Swap the round head sideplate screws and see it feels

You and I had the same thought... tried that one too, but no go.

I'M GETTING TO LEARN SOMETHING, WHILE I AM ENJOYING YOUR PROBLEM JUST AS MUCH AS YOU ARE.........

THIS IS SUCH A GREAT FORUM ! ! !

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'Nam 1968-69.DAV,VFW,NRA Inst.

Take a look at the inside of the crane.I put an arrow where I am talking about. I had one that I bought that had a burr there. Looked like someone tightened the screw into the very edge and create a ridge.It didn't want to open like yours.Some very light work with a needle file to smooth that edge and it opens very well now.

As to the extractor rod.The pin inside it needs to just clear the end to push the front pin out to allow the cylinder to swing out.

crane 1.jpg

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1st smiles,lies.Last,gunfire.

^^ never would have occurred to me!! I’ll have a look at that and fitting the ejector rod and post the results. Thank you, this is all good info!

I saw a 317 with excessive end shake (cylinder fore-and-aft play) that would move forward and grind the end of the cylinder on the forcing cone. Only happened when the cyl was moving out, as that is when the center pin would push the cyl towards the barrel.

Should have obvious damage on the cylinder forward face if so.

The center pin should be flush with the ejector rod when the cylinder end is pushed.

Also, when the cylinder release is pushed the part the pushes the center pin should be perfectly flush with the recoil shield (back part of the frame).