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10-08-2018, 12:36 AM
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I just emailed Talo
I suggested the possibility of taking the newest 66 and 69 and making a limited run in ALL brushed stainless steel finish, a true 3” barrel, and with a fiber optic front sight and a FIXED rear sight.
I doubt they would last a week on the market!
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10-08-2018, 03:29 AM
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I wouldn't mind a 2.75" barrel if that made it an easier lift for TALO.
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10-08-2018, 08:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ashlander
I wouldn't mind a 2.75" barrel if that made it an easier lift for TALO.
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Yea I suggested that also
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10-08-2018, 09:24 AM
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Sorry,no more S&W Talo being made. in last post of linked thread.
Price check, etc. on 686-6 Talo Exclusive
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10-08-2018, 09:39 AM
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IMHO, PUTTING A BRUSHED FINISH ON A STAINLESS STEEL GUN NEGATES ONE OF THE MAJOR ADVANTAGES OF THE STAINLESS MATERIAL......
THE BRUSHED FINSH MORE READILY SHOWS HANDLING MARKS, DINGS, HOLSTER WEAR, AND SIGNS OF HONEST USE.....
ON TRADTIONAL STAINLESS, ALL SUCH DAMAGE IS EASILY POLISHED OUT---USING AN ABRASIVE IF NEED BE, FOLLOWED BY A PRODUCT LIKE MOTHER'S MAG WHEEL POLISH, OR FLITZ, ETC. THE GUN IS EASIY MAINTAINED IN PRISTINE APPEARANCE, DESPITE HARD USE.....
NOT SO WITH A BRUHED FINISH. MANY HOW TO QUERYS HAVE BEEN FIELDED OH THIS FORUM, WITH INSTRUCTIONS ON THE SELECTION AND USE OF SCOTCH-BRITE PADS.....
OF COURSE ITS ALL PERSONAL PREFERENCE. I'M NOT TRYING TO HI-JACK THE THREAD. I'M JUST POINTING OUT A POSSIBLE CONSIDERATION.........
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Last edited by one eye joe; 10-08-2018 at 02:03 PM.
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10-08-2018, 09:51 AM
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Isn't a 66 with a fixed rear sight going to be a 65 ( or do you have a removable rear sight in mind?)
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10-08-2018, 10:15 AM
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what would be the point of putting a fiber optic front {least durable and also easiest to catch sight onto a gun with non adjustable rear {sleek/ non catch} also the 2 3/4 inch is the shortest to be able to have a full length ejector {it use to be 3 inch when having the detent on the end of the ejector.} The new detent system has changed things a bit
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10-08-2018, 11:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by one eye joe
IMHO, PUTTING A BRUSHED FINISH ON A STAINLESS STEEL GUN NEGATES ONE OF THE MAJOR ADVANTAGES OF THE STAINLESS MATERIAL......
THE BRUSHED FINSH MORE READILY SHOWS HANDLING MARKS, DINGS, HOLSTER WEAR, AND SIGNS OF HONEST USE.....
ON TRADTIONAL STAINLESS, ALL SUCH DAMAGE IS EASILY POLISHED OUT---USING AN ABRASIVE IF NEED BE, FOLLOWED BY A PRODUCT LIKE MOTHER'S MAG WHEEL POLISH, OR FLITZ, ETC. THE GUN IS EASIY MAINTAINED IN PRISTINE APPEARANCE,DESPITE HARD USE.....
NOT SO WITH A BRUHED FINISH. MANY HOW TO QUERYS HAVE BEEN FIELDED OH THIS FORUM, WITH INSTRUCTIONS ON THE SELECTION AND USE OF SCOTCH-BRITE PADS.....
OF COURSE ITS ALL PERSONAL PREFERENCE. I'M NOT TRYING TO HI-JACK THE THREAD. I'M JUST POINTING OUT A POSSIBLE CONSIDERATION.........
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I agree. I've always much preferred traditional S&W polished stainless.
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10-08-2018, 11:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by one eye joe
IMHO, PUTTING A BRUSHED FINISH ON A STAINLESS STEEL GUN NEGATES ONE OF THE MAJOR ADVANTAGES OF THE STAINLESS MATERIAL......
THE BRUSHED FINSH MORE READILY SHOWS HANDLING MARKS, DINGS, HOLSTER WEAR, AND SIGNS OF HONEST USE.....
ON TRADTIONAL STAINLESS, ALL SUCH DAMAGE IS EASILY POLISHED OUT---USING AN ABRASIVE IF NEED BE, FOLLOWED BY A PRODUCT LIKE MOTHER'S MAG WHEEL POLISH, OR FLITZ, ETC. THE GUN IS EASIY MAINTAINED IN PRISTINE APPEARANCE,DESPITE HARD USE.....
NOT SO WITH A BRUHED FINISH. MANY HOW TO QUERYS HAVE BEEN FIELDED OH THIS FORUM, WITH INSTRUCTIONS ON THE SELECTION AND USE OF SCOTCH-BRITE PADS.....
OF COURSE ITS ALL PERSONAL PREFERENCE. I'M NOT TRYING TO HI-JACK THE THREAD. I'M JUST POINTING OUT A POSSIBLE CONSIDERATION.........
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What is "traditional stainless" finish? If you are thinking of the finish below, that is brushed stainless (you can even see the brush marks).
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10-08-2018, 02:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stopsign32v
What is "traditional stainless" finish? If you are thinking of the finish below, that is brushed stainless (you can even see the brush marks).
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BY A "TRADITIONAL STAINLESS FINISH" I MEANT TO REFERENCE THE POLISHED STAINLESS FINISH THAT IS APPLIED TO THE REST OF THE ENTIRE S&W LINE.....
EVERYTHING OTHER THAN THE HIGH POLISHED, AND THE BRUSHED FINISH THAT DEVIATE FROM "THE NORM", FOR LACK OF A BETTER TERM........
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10-08-2018, 03:18 PM
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IN A MOST TIMELY FASHION, THE PROBLEM THAT I IDENTIFIED IS ILLUSTRATED BY THE THREAD "stainless steel"....
CHECK IT OUT...
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10-08-2018, 03:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoyM52
what would be the point of putting a fiber optic front {least durable and also easiest to catch sight onto a gun with non adjustable rear {sleek/ non catch} also the 2 3/4 inch is the shortest to be able to have a full length ejector {it use to be 3 inch when having the detent on the end of the ejector.} The new detent system has changed things a bit
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The new Kimber K6s revolvers has variations with a fiber optic front sight and fixed rear (though the "fixed" rear sight is in a dove tail). The front sight is pinned in, so it can be switched out without too much grief. I bought a K6s with a regular ramp sight and painted it orange. Perhaps S&W can take a hint from the competition.
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10-08-2018, 04:54 PM
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IMHO, THE ONLY REAR SIGHT THAT CAN PROVIDE PRECISE AND REPEATABLE ALIGNMENT OF A FIBER OPTIC FRONT SIGHT, MUST HAVE A U SHAPED NOTCH IN THE REAR BLADE......
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10-08-2018, 04:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by one eye joe
IMHO, THE ONLY REAR SIGHT THAT CAN PROVIDE PRECISE AND REPEATABLE ALIGNMENT OF A FIBER OPTIC FRONT SIGHT, MUST HAVE A U SHAPED NOTCH IN THE REAR BLADE......
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Not at all
Why would a U provide that a square or rectangle wouldn't? Nothing is the answer.
That would lead me to the other point. A 2.75-3" revolver is a fighting revolver, something that has to get on target quickly. The quickest way to get on target is to have the brightest front sight possible. In most light conditions that will be a fiber optic sight, especially outside.
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10-09-2018, 05:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wee Hooker
Isn't a 66 with a fixed rear sight going to be a 65 ( or do you have a removable rear sight in mind?)
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A 3” 65 with a changeable pinned FS.
Now we’re talkin!
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10-09-2018, 07:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stopsign32v
Not at all
Why would a U provide that a square or rectangle wouldn't? Nothing is the answer.
That would lead me to the other point. A 2.75-3" revolver is a fighting revolver, something that has to get on target quickly. The quickest way to get on target is to have the brightest front sight possible. In most light conditions that will be a fiber optic sight, especially outside.
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YOUR REMARKS ARE MERELY YOUR OPINION--TO WHICH YOU ARE CERTAINLY ENTITLED.....
IN MY POST I MENTIONED THE INABILITY TO OBTAIN "PRECISE AND REPEATABLE SIGHT ALIGNMENT"---NOT THE ABILITY TO PUT RAPID SHOTS ON A TORSO AT 7 YARDS, IN BROAD DAYLIGHT. PERHAPS YOU ARE A GUNFIGHTER ? ? ? I AM NOT---ALTHOUGH I MAY HAVE VERY WELL SURVIVED MORE FIREFIGHTS THAN YOU HAVE. MY INTENT IS NOT TO COMPARE WAR STORIES....
THE ANSWER TO YOUR FIRST QUESTION IS QUITE SIMPLE, DESPITE THE FACT THAT IT ISN'T "nothing", AS YOU IMPLY. THE FACT OF THE MATTER IS THAT A ROUND PEG FITS BETTER IN A ROUND HOLE THAN A SQUARE OR RECTANGULAR HOLE----IF YOU WISH TO POSITION IT PRECISELY, AND BE ABLE TO REPEAT IT.....
I INSTALLED FIBER OPTIC SIGHTS ON 3 OF MY MOUNTAIN GUNS. THEY ARE USELESS IN A DARK INDOOR PORT, OR A DARKENED ROOM. THE TUBE MUST BE EXPOSED TO A LIGHT SOURCE IN ORDER TO BE ACTIVATED.....
I REMOVED THEM BECAUSE I DEMAND A GREATER LEVEL OF ACCURACY FROM MY WEAPONS, THAT SPEND MOST OF THEIR TIME AT THE RANGE. I AM NOT SATISFIED WITH "A PIE PLATE ZERO", THAT WOULD BE ACCEPTABLE FOR HITTING THE VITALS OF AN ANIMAL, OR THE TORSO OF A HUMAN. I HAVE SUCCESSFULLY HUNTED ANIMALS WITH IRON SIGHTED REVOLVERS, AND I CARRY WHEN WOODS WALKING, HUNTING WITH LONG GUNS, CAMPING, AND FISHING.....
THANKFULLY, I HAVE NEVER HAD TO DRAW MY EDC---A 2 1/2" M686+, IN A SHTF, SELF DEFENSE SCENARIO. MEANWHILE THAT SNUBBY IS DEADLY ACCURATE AT THE RANGE.....
BELOW ARE PICS OF THE WEAPONS THAT I REFERENCED.........
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Last edited by one eye joe; 10-09-2018 at 07:53 PM.
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10-09-2018, 07:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoyM52
what would be the point of putting a fiber optic front {least durable and also easiest to catch sight onto a gun with non adjustable rear {sleek/ non catch} also the 2 3/4 inch is the shortest to be able to have a full length ejector {it use to be 3 inch when having the detent on the end of the ejector.} The new detent system has changed things a bit
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I've never had a FO front sight that wasn't broken inside of a week. Nor have I ever seen a used gun with a Fiber Optic front sight, shotguns included... that weren't broken/cracked in half, or flat out missing.
I like the idea of a 2.75" Talo with a trench style rear sight and a roll pinned ramped front sight with an orange insert though!
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10-10-2018, 12:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HamHands
I've never had a FO front sight that wasn't broken inside of a week. Nor have I ever seen a used gun with a Fiber Optic front sight, shotguns included... that weren't broken/cracked in half, or flat out missing.
I like the idea of a 2.75" Talo with a trench style rear sight and a roll pinned ramped front sight with an orange insert though!
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I AGREE---FO SIGHTS ON USED GUNS ARE FREQUENTLY BROKEN OR MISSING. THEY ARE STICKING OUT THERE, LIKE AN ACCIDENT WAITING TO HAPPEN. I FAVOR RR FRONT SIGHTS FOR ALL AROUND USE---FROM THE RANGE, TO SD, TO FIELD USE, COUPLED WITH AN ADJUSTABLE REAR......
EARLY ON IN MY 50+ YEARS OF SHOOTING, I OWNED SEVERAL FIXED SIGHT HANDGUNS THAT DID NOT SHOOT POI TO POA. GUNS THAT CAN'T BE PRECISELY ZEROED FOR ANY AVAILABLE AMMO, OR THAT REQUIRE KENTUCKY WINDAGE, DO NOT INTEREST ME AT ALL. I SWORE OFF THOSE KIND OF GUNS AT THE TURN OF THE 1960s......
HERE ARE 2 EXAMPLES....
I SWAPPED THE PARTRIDGE FOR A S&W RR, AND THE STOCK REAR FOR A WIDER NOTCH WEIGAND COMBAT REAR, ON THE 4" M617, RANGE AND WOODS 10 SHOT......
MY EDC---A NO-DASH M686, CONVERTED TO A 7 SHOT AT THE FACTORY, CARRIES THE GREAT SIGHTS THAT IT WAS ORIGINALLY SHIPPED WITH......
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Last edited by one eye joe; 10-10-2018 at 12:25 AM.
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10-10-2018, 08:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by one eye joe
I AGREE---FO SIGHTS ON USED GUNS ARE FREQUENTLY BROKEN OR MISSING. THEY ARE STICKING OUT THERE, LIKE AN ACCIDENT WAITING TO HAPPEN. I FAVOR RR FRONT SIGHTS FOR ALL AROUND USE---FROM THE RANGE, TO SD, TO FIELD USE, COUPLED WITH AN ADJUSTABLE REAR......
EARLY ON IN MY 50+ YEARS OF SHOOTING, I OWNED SEVERAL FIXED SIGHT HANDGUNS THAT DID NOT SHOOT POI TO POA. GUNS THAT CAN'T BE PRECISELY ZEROED FOR ANY AVAILABLE AMMO, OR THAT REQUIRE KENTUCKY WINDAGE, DO NOT INTEREST ME AT ALL. I SWORE OFF THOSE KIND OF GUNS AT THE TURN OF THE 1960s......
HERE ARE 2 EXAMPLES....
I SWAPPED THE PARTRIDGE FOR A S&W RR, AND THE STOCK REAR FOR A WIDER NOTCH WEIGAND COMBAT REAR, ON THE 4" M617, RANGE AND WOODS 10 SHOT......
MY EDC---A NO-DASH M686, CONVERTED TO A 7 SHOT AT THE FACTORY, CARRIES THE GREAT SIGHTS THAT IT WAS ORIGINALLY SHIPPED WITH......
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Damn those are beautiful Revo's Joe! Nice pic/gun, especially the first one on the left, combat magnums/fighting guns are certainly my favorite!
As to the non adjust able rear sight pistols... I get what you are saying. Of the (3) that I've got/shot quite a bit... they've all shot pretty much POA/POI, out to 20 yards with a Plethora of 158 grain ammo. Granted they are "J" frames, and 1 Colt, with 1 7/8" or 2" snub barrels, trench rear, ramp front sighted Revolvers in .38Special... That is about as far as I can expect to hit a man sized torso 8 out of 10 times/shots with a pocket revolver and my beefy mitts. With an "N" frame, proper grips (for my hands) I bet I could make 50 yard shots on my 12"x24" AR500 Steel Silhouette popper plate. So for an "N" frame, yeah, I'm probably right there with you as far as needing an adjustable rear sight on anything bigger than a J or D frame snub.
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10-10-2018, 11:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HamHands
Damn those are beautiful Revo's Joe! Nice pic/gun, especially the first one on the left, combat magnums/fighting guns are certainly my favorite!
As to the non adjust able rear sight pistols... I get what you are saying. Of the (3) that I've got/shot quite a bit... they've all shot pretty much POA/POI, out to 20 yards with a Plethora of 158 grain ammo. Granted they are "J" frames, and 1 Colt, with 1 7/8" or 2" snub barrels, trench rear, ramp front sighted Revolvers in .38Special... That is about as far as I can expect to hit a man sized torso 8 out of 10 times/shots with a pocket revolver and my beefy mitts. With an "N" frame, proper grips (for my hands) I bet I could make 50 yard shots on my 12"x24" AR500 Steel Silhouette popper plate. So for an "N" frame, yeah, I'm probably right there with you as far as needing an adjustable rear sight on anything bigger than a J or D frame snub.
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THANKS FOR THE KIND WORDS, HamHands.....
I WAS ABLE TO DEAL WITH POA TO POI ELEVATION ISSUES MUCH EASIER THAN WINDAGE CORRECTIONS WITH FIXED SIGHT GUNS.....
THE FINAL STRAW WAS A BRAND NEW WALTHER PPK/S IN .380, THAT I COULD NOT HIT AN NRA B-2 TARGET AT 50 FEET WITH......
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Last edited by one eye joe; 10-10-2018 at 03:29 PM.
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10-10-2018, 02:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by one eye joe
THANKS FOR THE KIND WORDS, HamHands.....
I WAS ABLE TO DEAL WITH POA TO POI ELEVATION ISSUES MUCH EASIER THAN WINDAGE CORRECTIONS WITH FIXED SIGHT GUNS.....
THE FINAL STRAW WAS A BRAND NEW WALTHER PPK/S IN .380, THAT I COULD NOT HIT AN NRA B-2 TARGET A 50 FEET WITH......
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Oh that is bad!
I've never experienced a windage problem on any of my fixed sight revolvers... but sure would be mad if I ever did! I'm going to scrutinize any new "J" frames in the future though... I like shooting heavy for caliber bullets too so they tend to be longer, have more rifling time.
I have noticed every single ammo tried in my MBP snub is dead on strait where I point it if I do my part and let the hammer fall with no movement/recoil anticipation. They are all 225, 240, 300, and 305 grain bullets though. However, 200 grain, Blazer Gold Dot .44Specials hit down and to the right, every time. I'm going to leave the rear/windage alone because I like and carry the heavier stuff much more than the Blazer's.
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10-10-2018, 03:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldman10mm
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Stands to reason. You could often buy a "special" Talo model with more content than the standard models for a lower price on GB. Talo didn't do a good job protecting distribution and maintaining price on the product, which would be a good reason for S&W to end that arrangement. They all had ILs, so who really cares?
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10-10-2018, 06:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OlongJohnson
Stands to reason. You could often buy a "special" Talo model with more content than the standard models for a lower price on GB. Talo didn't do a good job protecting distribution and maintaining price on the product, which would be a good reason for S&W to end that arrangement. They all had ILs, so who really cares?
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That makes perfect sense and I fully agree! Your last sentence though... I don't sweat a lock one fifth as much as I used to since Original Precision came on the scene. J.D.'s Lock Deletes take care of that stupid lock and match any finish nearly perfectly. I do like my Pre-Lock Lew Horton Special M29-3 and M629-5 3" and all my 70's manufactured "J" frames better than my Talo for not having any lock to begin with!
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10-10-2018, 08:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HamHands
Oh that is bad!
I've never experienced a windage problem on any of my fixed sight revolvers... but sure would be mad if I ever did! I'm going to scrutinize any new "J" frames in the future though... I like shooting heavy for caliber bullets too so they tend to be longer, have more rifling time.
I have noticed every single ammo tried in my MBP snub is dead on strait where I point it if I do my part and let the hammer fall with no movement/recoil anticipation. They are all 225, 240, 300, and 305 grain bullets though. However, 200 grain, Blazer Gold Dot .44Specials hit down and to the right, every time. I'm going to leave the rear/windage alone because I like and carry the heavier stuff much more than the Blazer's.
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THAT'S VERY STRANGE HH. I CAN'T IMAGINE WHAT THE DIFFERENCE MIGHT BE. I WONDER IF THE BLAZER BULLETS ARE OF A SMALLER DIAMETER, OR THEIR OGIVE IS DIFFERENT, SO THAT THEY DON'T ENGAGE THE RIFLING AS WELL ? ? ? A MICROMETER CHECK, MIGHT GIVE A CLUE.....
I WOULD NOT ADJUST YOUR SIGHTS---AND I WOULD CONSIDER SELLING OFF YOUR REMAINING SUPPLY OF BLAZER AMMO.....
EVIDENTLY YOUR REVOLVER DOES NOT LIKE THEM ! ! !
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Last edited by one eye joe; 10-10-2018 at 08:47 PM.
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10-11-2018, 11:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by one eye joe
THAT'S VERY STRANGE HH. I CAN'T IMAGINE WHAT THE DIFFERENCE MIGHT BE. I WONDER IF THE BLAZER BULLETS ARE OF A SMALLER DIAMETER, OR THEIR OGIVE IS DIFFERENT, SO THAT THEY DON'T ENGAGE THE RIFLING AS WELL ? ? ? A MICROMETER CHECK, MIGHT GIVE A CLUE.....
I WOULD NOT ADJUST YOUR SIGHTS---AND I WOULD CONSIDER SELLING OFF YOUR REMAINING SUPPLY OF BLAZER AMMO.....
EVIDENTLY YOUR REVOLVER DOES NOT LIKE THEM ! ! !
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I'll put the Micrometer on a dozen or so after I get the wife's Rubicon dried up from the storm remnants for sure. They seem to have a high ogive just eying them.
Yeah, I'm not touching the rear sights as they are in set-n-forget mode!
I have multiple batches/lot numbers of the Blazer Aluminum Gold Dot ammo. I have current manufactured and some I bought off a member here that he wrote January of 01' on the boxes.
Both my tack driving LHS M29-3 and MBP 629-5 place this ammo an inch low and an inch to the right and 10 yards on paper at the range recently. Groupings are great, just off center... I was firing at some miniature diet coke cans my mother in law left at the family mountain home this weekend and only hit one can after a full cylinder at 20 yards. I can hit them at 20 yards usually. Then it became apparent it was the ammo when I switched the cylinder to Federal 200grain SWCHP's. Popped cans nearly every time after that.
The Blazer Gold Dots are still adequate for carry/combat distances but they sure aren't going to win me any bullseye matches! They do seem a little bit hotter than I remember them years past though.
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