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Old 10-10-2018, 08:17 PM
steveoMAg45 steveoMAg45 is offline
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Default Model 66-2 Update

A few weeks ago I acquired a 66-2 and had a few problems I've never experienced before. I've shot a model 19 and 586 over the years and they are great. However the 66 was binding, cylinder would lock up at times. This is the first revolver I've shot extensively and realized they must be cleaned very good after range sessions, and go easy with magnums if its a K frame. I was dumping magnums through it. After cleaning and trying different ammo, 38s and 357s its shooting great. I still shoot magnums but usually sticking with plenty of 38s. I've been shooting it well with good groups. I'm keeping my Colt .45 and Glock in the safe for now. Attached is one nice shot I had with some defensive 38 ammo. I loaded one round in the cylinder and got lucky.

My LGS had a new model 19-9 and I really wanted one when they first came out. The finish and grips are well done but after working the action it does not feel the same as the older S&Ws. May just stick with the older models for now.
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Model 66-2 Update-62mnq-jpg   Model 66-2 Update-jnh6q42j-jpg  
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Old 10-10-2018, 08:22 PM
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Jtown Jtown is offline
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I'm glad you found a cure for your problem and now are enjoying your gun.
Walt
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Old 10-10-2018, 10:37 PM
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The bullet has an odd, very wide flute mark. What kind of ammo is that?!
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Old 10-11-2018, 01:02 AM
SeamasterSig SeamasterSig is offline
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That looks like Lehigh Defense ammo. If it was made by LD in 38+p, their load is very mild and shouldn't even be considered +p velocity in my book (unless maybe the rating is due to higher pressure resulting from whatever powder LD uses). That same 140 grain bullet loaded by Underwood Ammo is rated at a very hot 1550 fps. They also make a 120 grain bullet rated at 1700 fps. That sort of ammo will be very hard on your K-frame if you shoot a lot of it.

Your model 66 represents a compromise: a carry-friendly magnum revolver. It's not a tank, but it is not meant to be babied either. You can shoot magnums out of it until the cows come home or your wrist gives out if you stick with 158 grains and up. Lighter magnum bullets will cause the cylinder to loosen up prematurely and may eventually crack the forcing cone. This is due to the slow-burning powders used to get maximum velocity combined with shorter bullets, which take up less room in the case and allow the use of more powder. I also think the combusting powder can get ahead of the shorter bullets before they seal off the barrel. This is not an issue with 38 spc and +p ammo or heavier magnums, just light hot magnum ammo – especially those popular 125 grain screamers. If you really like that sort of thing, do your 66 a favor and get an L-frame 686.

Last edited by SeamasterSig; 10-11-2018 at 01:07 AM.
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Old 10-11-2018, 06:58 AM
steveoMAg45 steveoMAg45 is offline
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Its Ruger ARX defensive ammo. Its polymer/copper. High velocity but very light weight bullet. I don't use them often, just trying something new.
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Old 10-11-2018, 07:55 AM
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I had a Ruger Security-Six that would bind up after, Oh, 50 rounds or so. I sent it back to Ruger and they returned it in about a week saying they reset the B/C gap. No more problem. No idea if that's any help to you or not, but I had found that cleaning it took care of the problem for a little while.

I've got a 19-4, a 66-1, and a 19-9. I like all three of them, and can't say I really notice a lot of difference.
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Old 10-11-2018, 08:39 AM
Bayou52 Bayou52 is online now
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OP -

When experiencing cylinder binding, a good cleaning, as you've noticed, at times is corrective. Sometimes that's all that's needed. However, in other cases, the cleaning may only be a temporary corrective measure.

Have you measured the barrel to cylinder gap and end shake? Attached is a handy FAQ sticky from the gunsmithing thread:

FAQ

Scroll down to the section on "Feeler Gauge Inspection" that describes the technique for taking the b/c gap measurement and the end shake measurement. It also provides acceptable parameters.

Hope this helps...

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Old Yesterday, 10:13 AM
Gunaholic Gunaholic is offline
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I once had a 24-3 that would bind up quickly. I doped out it was only doing it when I used 2400 in my reloads. The "ash" or residue would get under the cylinder star. I'd have to hold it open and brush it out so the star would fully seat again. The cure for me was to use other powders.
Don't know if that helps.
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Old Yesterday, 11:18 AM
AveragEd AveragEd is offline
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I've had that happen with other powders. I forget which ones they were but they are some of the very popular but dirty-burning ones you hear about frequently in posts. When I went to cleaner-burning powders, although maybe a little more expensive, the problem has never reared its ugly head.

Ed
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