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10-12-2018, 08:21 AM
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If I send a model 10-10 to Smith to repair...
If I sent a model 10-10 in for repair will Smith convert it to a transfer bar/new hammer set up like the newer models even if I want it left alone. If so I'd find a gunsmith instead. I know Ruger has that policy for liability/safety reasons.
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10-12-2018, 08:40 AM
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There is no transfer bar in the model 10's with the frame mounted firing pin. (or any other S&W) Depending on the issue with the gun, repairs will be confined to fixing the specific problem and replacing worn or damaged internal parts if needed.
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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer
Last edited by armorer951; 10-12-2018 at 08:43 AM.
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10-12-2018, 09:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by armorer951
There is no transfer bar in the model 10's with the frame mounted firing pin. (or any other S&W) Depending on the issue with the gun, repairs will be confined to fixing the specific problem and replacing worn or damaged internal parts if needed.
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Thanks, I was just enlightened on another forum. A "gunsmith" at my range commented on my 10-10, which I bought there, as being the only one out of the 10 they had which had no transfer bar. I told him they had 10-8s with the hammer mounted firing pin like my 10-10 and he said ya but mine was the only one w/o transfer bar. This confused me because I couldn't understand how you could have both a transfer bar and hammer mounted firing pin. I was told he was great with revolvers but apparently he knows little about the 6 million model 10s that were made. He also told me that a side plate screw I was missing was the same screw as the one forward of it(yoke screw) which I argued with him about.
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10-12-2018, 10:26 AM
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Well you can definitely have a revolver with a frame mounted firing pin AND a transfer bar... that's how Ruger revolvers are designed. S&W however uses no transfer bar. S&W does employ a hammer block, which can be mistaken for a transfer bar when you peer top down inside a cocked revolver... if you aren't familiar with the design.
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10-12-2018, 10:51 AM
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Someone’s got it confused with Ruger.
If you send Ruger a pre-1973 revolver for work, they might install the transfer bar, I don’t know if that’s their policy.
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10-12-2018, 12:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sevens
S&W does employ a hammer block, which can be mistaken for a transfer bar when you peer top down inside a cocked revolver... if you aren't familiar with the design.
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This (they want 10 characters).
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10-12-2018, 01:02 PM
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If you took apart a S&W revolver and yanked the hammer block out and left it on the work bench and reassembled, you'd likely never know it was missing (well, unless you dropped a loaded revolver and something went horribly wrong...) but if you pulled the transfer bar from a Ruger revolver and left it out of the gun, that revolver would never fire again.
Quote:
If you send Ruger a pre-1973 revolver for work, they might install the transfer bar, I don’t know if that’s their policy.
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That is definitely their policy, and they send your revolver back with new parts installed and your original parts in a bag. Most folks who enjoy Ruger single action hoglegs are in the camp that the old design allowed for a far better trigger and, well, experience overall, but everyone typically agrees that the modern transfer bar system used in Ruger single actions is a much more safe design.
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