Got my new 686 a couple of weeks ago and have only been out twice with it shooting 38 specials. Wanted to clean her up and tried to remove the crane and cylinder and found that I couldn't.
Called S&W service for a return tag.

It seems that once the cylinder is opened and ready to dismantle and remove--I can only move it about 1/4 inch. The cylinder makes contact with part of the frame housing and there is no daylight for clearance.

The frame probably only need to be filed a couple of thousands of an inch to provide the necessary clearance, but I don't want to booger it up--hence the return.

Has anyone experienced the same?

Thanks.

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They can be "sticky" to remove - just try wiggling it around some and it should come out.

Ed

I tried--parts rub--no daylight between cylinder face and frame. They got it together--but there is no wiggle room to get it to come free.

Why don't you remove the "Yoke" screw? That should allow the crane to slide out from the front and lets you remove the cylinder and crane in one piece... I've never removed a cylinder the way you are trying to do!

Remove front screw closest to the barrel.
Open cylinder
You need to pull the yoke out. Leave the cylinder in place and pull on the yoke straight out. It should slide straight out towards the front of the barrel.
So, you pull on the arm(yoke)only leaving the cylinder in the same position. To put back. You dont slip the yoke on the cylinder all the way in. It wont slip in.

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And of course removing that front screw. But I thought we were past that.

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Please don't be cute with the Yoke screw remark. I have had multiple S&W revolvers over the last 40 years and have completely stripped all of them naked. I am not about to booger up a new Talo. When I say that there is no clearance--there is no clearance.

From what you describe, I wonder if the extractor rod has loosened? This is a relatively common, and minor, issue. Turn left to tighten, but don't use any tool. Also good idea to put empty cases in the cylinder to keep from damage.

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Do you have better pics - can't see much in those mini-pics.

Lighten up dude

You won't booger up the screw if you use the correct fitting screwdriver.

You are doing it wrong, period. Sorry to be blunt, but the reality of the situation is quite simple, and already explained. Remove the yoke from the cylinder, without trying to move cylinder forward. How do I know? Yep, I used to take smiths apart the same as you, before I knew the simple truth... you tube has some videos that can show it, as well. My kids learned me..

Google - how to remove and reinstall a smith and wesson revolver cylinder - and you will find a short video from TK custom. Once you watch it, you will understand the simple truth that confused more folks than care to admit. If you have not sent off the revolver, you will have no need to send it, once you watch the video.

This... I got a set of (6) Gunsmith Screw drivers a while back. They were about $75 out the door but they fit every screw on my J and N frames and don't mishap-en the screw head one iota...

If there was clearance going in, there has to be clearance coming out.

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^^^^yep.

Have you gotten it done yet?
I used to pull the cylinder and yoke out together before I learned to pull the yoke only and wind up with the cylinder in hand. Re-install is simply reversing the procedure