Model 66 lead fouling

[cjcutter1]

Took my 66-2 4” outback that I got worked on by the S&W Performance Center which I’ve only shot once since I’ve gotten it back. Shot a box of Magtech 158gr LRN 38special cleaned up as usual but hard time getting bore pristine like usual I’m assuming what I’m seeing is lead residue near the throat? I was feeling some spitting of lead as well on me. Thoughts appreciated can say I’ve shot a lot of LRN other then 22 just grabbed and go.

[Scharfschuetzer]

There are lots of suspects when it comes to leading in a revolver. Were you shooting 38 Special ammo or 357 ammo? Also, are those Magtech bullets swaged or cast?

If the leading is near the forcing cone in any revovler, it may be due to gas blow by and thus the vaporization of lead before the bullet obturates in the bore.

Lots of suspects in bore leading, particularly at the forcing cone.

1. A bullet sized slightly too small for the bore.
2. Too high of a velocity (thus pressure) for the alloy hardness of the bullet.
3. A poor or non-performing bullet lubricant, although this may cause leading the length of the bore.
4. A bullet alloy that is too hard for the round's pressure. Yes, this is the opposite of #2, but is a very viable suspect and generally happens with hard-cast bullets in low pressure loads.

The spitting you noted on firing may be due to a timing issue with the revolver.

[glenwolde]

Factory ammo with swaged lead bullets are notorious for leading in .38 and especially in .357. Try to stay away from that stuff.

I've used various things to try and clean lead from barrels. The Lewis Lead Remover works but the simpler solution is a brass jag tip and a patch cut from a "lead remover cloth". Works just as well. They are available from a variety of sources.

Spear Tip .357/.38-9mm Jag

Lead Clean Cloth

[cjcutter1]

Originally Posted by Scharfschuetzer

There are lots of suspects when it comes to leading in a revolver. Were you shooting 38 Special ammo or 357 ammo? Also, are those Magtech bullets swaged or cast?

If the leading is near the forcing cone in any revovler, it may be due to gas blow by and thus the vaporization of lead before the bullet obturates in the bore.

Lots of suspects in bore leading, particularly at the forcing cone.

1. A bullet sized slightly too small for the bore.
2. Too high of a velocity (thus pressure) for the alloy hardness of the bullet.
3. A poor or non-performing bullet lubricant, although this may cause leading the length of the bore.
4. A bullet alloy that is too hard for the round's pressure. Yes, this is the opposite of #2, but is a very viable suspect and generally happens with hard-cast bullets in low pressure loads.

The spitting you noted on firing may be due to a timing issue with the revolver.

38 special as stated in post. The lead round nose definitely not hard cast. The timing I would hope S&W would have ironed all that out they had gun for six months to the day worked on in the Performance Center and I’ve only ran one box of ammo through it other then today since I’ve gotten it back. Appreciate the feedback.

[cjcutter1]

Originally Posted by glenwolde

Factory ammo with swaged lead bullets are notorious for leading in .38 and especially in .357. Try to stay away from that stuff.

I've used various things to try and clean lead from barrels. The Lewis Lead Remover works but the simpler solution is a brass jag tip and a patch cut from a "lead remover cloth". Works just as well. They are available from a variety of sources.

Spear Tip .357/.38-9mm Jag

Lead Clean Cloth

Appreciate it I do have one of lead removal cloths I’ll have to give it a try I knew something was off when barrel didn’t appear pristine as usual after I clean my guns. I have used the old FBI load in a model 64 without having issues like this.

[glenwolde]

If you have some old-school feeler gauges check the cylinder gap. Spitting happens. It depends on the degree and frequency. A lot of spitting on every shot isn't right, but if you just occasionally notice some it is no big deal. Revolvers are like that. It can change with ammo. Obviously jacketed ammo won't spit. Hopefully.

Poly coated cast bullets are the cat's meow. But that requires reloading them yourself.

[cjcutter1]

Originally Posted by glenwolde

If you have some old-school feeler gauges check the cylinder gap. Spitting happens. It depends on the degree and frequency. A lot of spitting on every shot isn't right, but if you just occasionally notice some it is no big deal. Revolvers are like that. It can change with ammo. Obviously jacketed ammo won't spit. Hopefully.

Poly coated cast bullets are the cat's meow. But that requires reloading them yourself.

With the naked eye the gap looks uniform on every cylinder but I do have gauges as well. The gun was bought a few years ago as “unfired” that may have been true but the yoke/crane was bent the gap was definitely off it was binding screw heads buggered so I sent the gun in to Smith and they went over it for approximately $200 and six months away.

[glenwolde]

Cylinder gap could be the reason for the spitting. Spitting is not necessarily lead. It can be just powder residue. Even given proper alignment a larger gap will spit more than a tighter one. Used to be .006" was max but I think but these days the factory spec is .008" to even .010"? I've heard different numbers here on the forum.

Not to me. I had my 6" 66-2 redone (not by the factory) and I requested .003" and I got it. I'm O.K. up to .006" but that's my max. I really like .003"-.004". Sorry you're having issues with a gun that should not have any given it was "new unfired". But these guns are worth rebuilding. Once they are right they are good to go for a long time.

[mtgianni]

As a general rule, leading in the forcing cone and throat of the bbl is a bullet size issue. Leading in the muzzle area is a lube issue.

[cjcutter1]

Originally Posted by glenwolde

Cylinder gap could be the reason for the spitting. Spitting is not necessarily lead. It can be just powder residue. Even given proper alignment a larger gap will spit more than a tighter one. Used to be .006" was max but I think but these days the factory spec is .008" to even .010"? I've heard different numbers here on the forum.

Not to me. I had my 6" 66-2 redone (not by the factory) and I requested .003" and I got it. I'm O.K. up to .006" but that's my max. I really like .003"-.004". Sorry you're having issues with a gun that should not have any given it was "new unfired". But these guns are worth rebuilding. Once they are right they are good to go for a long time.

Thanks again for the feedback. I’m looking around and it’s definitely looking like leading in the barrel and given they were 38spl in the mag revolver I see the error of my ways I believe. The spitting wasn’t until approximately halfway through the box I’d say and wasn’t consistent so hopefully it’s nothing to sweat.

[cjcutter1]

Originally Posted by mtgianni

As a general rule, leading in the forcing cone and throat of the bbl is a bullet size issue. Leading in the muzzle area is a lube issue.

Appreciate it definitely what is left in barrel is at the throat end.

[Scharfschuetzer]

During my LEO days, we shot a lot of soft swaged LSC in training and qualification. After a few hundred rounds, I'd have leading in my bore. I found the best way to get it out without any damage to the bore was with the "Lewis Lead Remover."

Here's a link: LEWIS LEAD REMOVER 9MM, 38/357 CALIBER CONE TIP : BROWNELLS LEWIS LEAD REMOVER | Shop Brownells

Another good option is "Chore Bore" pure copper scrubbing pads. Cut some off and wrap it around a tight fitting brush. You can find them at Amazon or Ebay.

[stansdds]

Swaged lead bullets, even in 38 Special, other than target wadcutter loads, are well known for depositing lead in the barrel of a revolver. Once there is a lead buildup in and on the forcing cone, spitting of tiny bits of lead through the barrel-cylinder gap becomes more common. I would not read too much into what you experienced just yet.

Clean out the lead, a Lewis Lead Remover is great for cleaning the barrel, but pure copper Chore Boy material (not the cheap, copper plated steel material in off-brand scrubbers) wrapped around a bore brush works too. Try some jacketed or hard cast lead bullets. If you still have spitting, there is a problem with chamber to barrel alignment or possibly an excessive barrel-cylinder gap.

[Pisgah]

It always amuses me that when a poster describes a perfectly normal gun behaving in a perfectly normal manner, we can always get a good number of responders telling us what's wrong.

It's great having experts on call...

[cjcutter1]

Originally Posted by Pisgah

It always amuses me that when a poster describes a perfectly normal gun behaving in a perfectly normal manner, we can always get a good number of responders telling us what's wrong.

It's great having experts on call...

Why I’m here.

[cjcutter1]

Lead removal cloth and some elbow grease did the trick. Appreciate the help lessons learned and a tip in my toolbox thank you.

[Toyman]

Did someone say LEADING ?

[cjcutter1]

Originally Posted by Toyman

Did someone say LEADING ?

Had two large chunks come out in one piece kinda satisfying.