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S&W Revolvers: 1980 to the Present All NON-PINNED Barrels, the L-Frames, and the New Era Revolvers


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Old 01-23-2020, 03:25 AM
JCunningham JCunningham is offline
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I think the gun smith i took it too just ripped me off. Heres the story. I bought this 66-2 at Cabelas for $500 out the door. I checked it out 1st and everything seemed fine. fired about 20 round through it and the cylinder locked up.Couldnt pull the trigger. released the cylinder and had to hit the extractor rod hard to extract the rounds. spun the cylinder and it had a tight spot. I took it home. i had to heat up the extractor rod to loosen it up. If i left the rod loose it would rotate fine but i know you shouldnt be able to loosen the rod by hand as that is what our range instructors were taught with our dept model 10s. I took it to a gunsmith and a month later i call them and they say it will be ready tomorrow. I go in and it seems fine. I get home and remember to check the rod and its isnt even hand tight. They did nothing to the gun and charged me $90. They just left the rod loose so it wouldn't lock up. I hand tighten it and it has a tight spot but not as bad as befor. The rod doesnt look bent. Im wondering if im going to need a new extractor and rod. i dont trust this place anymore. I dont want to fit the extractor myself. im in western ny. any recommendation of a trustworthy smith? should i just buy a new rod from Numrich and try it out?
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Old 01-23-2020, 10:27 AM
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Hi, first off, sorry for your troubles. If I were you, I would repost this in S&W smithing forum, and see what gunsmith and armorers have to say
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Old 01-23-2020, 11:21 AM
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thanks i did
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Old 01-23-2020, 11:23 AM
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Can you remove the ejector rod and try rolling it on a flat surface? That would verify whether it’s perfectly straight.

Last edited by Jeppo; 01-23-2020 at 11:24 AM.
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Old 01-23-2020, 11:40 AM
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thank you very much. i did take the rod out befor i sent it to the smith and i rolled it but i only looked at the front. after reading. I see people putting it in a drill chuck. well you cant do that to the threads so i did it from the front. the threaded part is a bent wobbler. ill replace the rod. thanks

Last edited by JCunningham; 01-23-2020 at 11:47 AM.
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Old 01-23-2020, 11:44 AM
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just ordered a new one from Numrich with new springs, gas ring and collar.
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Old 01-24-2020, 07:58 AM
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Quote:
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just ordered a new one from Numrich with new springs, gas ring and collar.
Great, now go get your 90.00 back from Bubbasmith
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Old 01-24-2020, 10:23 AM
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Sorry to tell you this but that problem can be easily fixed with the proper fixture, babbit and a bit of skill. I straightened many extractor rods with these.
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Old 01-24-2020, 10:36 AM
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i dont have the fixture and have never done it befor.
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Old 01-24-2020, 10:42 AM
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I know you said this was a 66-2, but the early 66 models has a "locking up"problem due to the stainless type on both the frame and cylinder heating up and "expanding" beyond tolerance causing it to bind up. The guns were recalled. Is there a (?) possibility this 66-2 was made on using earlier parts?
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Old 01-24-2020, 10:47 AM
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its a 1982. it does have a bent rod and it goes away if the rod is loose.
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Old 01-24-2020, 05:26 PM
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i dont have the fixture and have never done it befor.
I didn't mean to imply that you should have the fixture needed but a good pistol smith or armorer should have something of that nature. It's called a Rod Runout Fixture and the cylinder with the extractor rod installed is placed in the fixture and the rod it tapped with a babbit to straighten it out. The cylinder shown is from my 67-1.


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Last edited by OldChief; 01-24-2020 at 06:56 PM. Reason: Add Pictures
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