I am looking to purchase a 586 4" and I was wondering which model was the best the 586 no dash thru the 586-7

Caution....opinion follows:

I personally would prefer something stainless. For the blued variety though, I would rather have a model built prior to the changover to the new yoke retention system which was the -3 in 1988. I also am not a fan of the "floating hand" fiasco in the -1. So my first choice would be the no dash, followed by the -2. (in the 586) Find one you like....they are great revolvers.

Speaking from an armorer's viewpoint, the only "achilles heel" in the L-frame is the cylinder stop, which has a lot to handle with that comparatively heavy cylinder. With careful, respectful handling and regular maintenance, the gun will last several lifetimes.

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

Thank you I have never owned a L frame and I appreciate the information

They are good revolvers. I opt for stainless most of the time. Blue is pretty, stainless is practical. Reasonable use and maintenance will allow it to endure. I have had this one for a long time and take it to the range often, today as a matter of fact. I don't think the dash number so much matters matters as long as you get the finish and barrel length that you like.

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I understand why one wouldn’t like the new floating hand but what’s wrong with the new yoke retention system?

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-Matt

Matt,

I don't like the way it arbitrarily restricts the position of the yoke in the cylinder assembly pushing it rearward, and the resulting adverse negative effect this has on free cylinder rotation. I personally like hand fitting the yoke button to the piloted yoke screw, as opposed to submitting to a plunger and spring which cannot be adjusted.

Ever wonder why the new guns with this system don't have the exceptional free spinning cylinder assemblies any more like the older revolvers did? The "new and improved" yoke retention system is why.

The "new" plunger/spring retention system also allows the yoke to move forward during recoil and batter the frame directly under the barrel extension. The resulting artifacts are sometimes severe, particularly on alloy and scandium frames.....especially the magnums.

In my opinion the "new" yoke retention system is not superior to the yoke button and screw, but was designed to save money by removing the fitting necessary with the old system.

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

I prefer the 586 too. I just never warmed to stainless.
I look for something that still has the forged hammer and trigger with the firing pin there on the hammer where it belongs. I think the -5 and prior follow this.
Also, I have found guns made in the late 80s and early 90s to be very good. It seems to have been an era when quality and technology peaked.

Get both... if ya can.

I "accidently" won an auction on a 4" 586-8 last year and then not too long afterwards intentionally won a 4" 586-4 . I like the -4 better and it fits in well with my 686-4 2.5" and 6".

The -4 and earlier have the forged parts. Those are my preference. -5 begins with the MIM parts.

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Formerly know as Lucky Derby

LOL for me the Stainless 686s are for shooting and the Blue 586s are for looking at like a piece of rock candy.



I'm kind of partial to my four inch -5 586 factory round butt.

Me too, I like the -5 new frame style.





And yes, I switched the thumb piece to a full size one. Added the Ahrends Cocobolo too.

my 4'' 586-4 is the best revolver I own. Followed by my various 29-6s and 29-5 classic w underlug. The hight of S&W neo vintage production prior to MIM and Hillary hole.

586-3 and 586-4 are the best without question IMO with an honorable mention to the rare 586-5. Same in the 686 series.

Can’t go wrong with any 586 - I prefer no dash to dash 4.

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213th FBINA

I am having trouble finding any 4" 586 on any website including Wanting to Buy on the forum

There are those who passionately believe in stainless steel. Not me. Put me down for the 586 in beautiful blue every time. The earlier the better. If you are going to put it in a holster every day for a couple decades, well, OK, I get that. Blue holds up to wear better than some imagine. How many of you are really going to carry an L frame every day? And what's prettier than this? Shoot it all day long with your choice of ammo - mild to wild - pass it down to your grandkids.

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Some collect art; I shoot it!

Since it is the only one I have I am partial to the 586-5.

Whatever you do, don't get a -3 Nickel

I've got a 586-3, circa 1989, that I am rather fond of. It's a 4" round butt, with a glass bead finish. According to The Catalog, only 2,500 of this variety were made. It's always had a hitch at the end of the DA pull, and I disassembled it about a week ago to investigate. I'm in the process of smoothing the internals and converting from floating hand to standard. It's a keeper! I have 2 other L-frames, but both stainless.

I’ve never owned an L frame, know nothing about which one is best, but a nickel 6” 586 like this is at the top of my S&W wish list. My ex wife’s husband showed me his 6” 686 that’s been polished and looks nickel, except for the hammer and trigger. If he ever wants to trade it....

Stainless is definitely practical but that bluing.....
Something about it. I felt much better when I stopped caring about wear and just got what I liked the first time.

One thing about the earlier ‘dash’ models , as others have said, is the floating hand addition. S&w initially thought it was needed because of the possibility of issues down the road... but then later changed their minds. So, the floating hand isn’t ideal, but then you also get the ‘durability package’ in the earlier dashes.

Though I think the general consensus is -4 or earlier if you want the forged steel setup, and pre lock.

These were only made IIRC 1995-97........ .I lucked into one 4/5 years ago.

I asked the dealer to remove the grips so I could check for any rust on the gripframe and lo and behold........ a sweet clean round butt.

Never set it down .......... relatively cheap (just over $400 IIRC) as it was "blue" not the easier to sell stainless........ it now wears a set of Craig Spegel's extended boot grips in Birdseye maple!!!!!!!

I have a 6" 586 no dash but it was modified by S&W back when they had the firing pin issue with them. Mine is now marked
586-M

I dunno about this ..... My 586 no dash - 8-3/8" barrel in blue is not only a piece of eye candy, but has proven to be one (1) of my favorite guns to shoot![IMG]586[/IMG]

I would love to add a picture but this function appears to be unavailable???

Here's my 586 no dash non mod. it's a first year production gun. I don't shoot a lot of hot ammo in it and haven't worried about getting the mod done. It's a very accurate revolver and I'm happy to have it in my safe.

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SWHF #595

I could see this beauty in my revolver family.

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Life is short,live it fully.

I would buy a 4" 586 , if I could get it at a good price. I recently purchased my first and only 586-4.

This is my 4” 586ND and it’s been one heck of a shooter since I got it. I liked it so much in fact that I bought it’s big brother , a 6” 586-1




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I reckon so

Today was "revolver day" at the range.

I have the 586 Nickle I bought new in 1982 and it shoots very nice and the finish still looks brand new.

This session, 18 rds, two hand combat, single action, slow fire @ 20 ft.

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This came to me in a trade from a stranger that is now my friend. We both moved, so we have not shot together for a couple of years.
586, 4" no dash, from 1983. It has not had the recall done. In these pictures it is wearing Herrett Stocks. It came with the original factory targets. It doesn't get out too often.
Added a 6" 686-3, because I liked the 586 so much. Recently added a 686-6, 5" Pro Series. Bob

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Along those same lines, when I picked up a second 686ND a few years ago, I noticed some of the wear associated with the cylinder stop. The wear I noticed was on the cylinder slots, that were developing some very sharp burrs on the edge of the slot. I took a very small hammer and a 1/4in flat punch, and ever-so-slightly/lightly tapped on these burrs until I could NOT feel them with my finger nail and STOPPED.

It only took very light taps to correct these burrs on the cylinder. FWIW, I am NOT an armorer and got lucky with my DIY fix...

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