I posted about this several years ago but I don't recall getting an answer as to the cause.
The yoke screw on my Model 29 was burnt and broken, causing the cylinder to not close. It was with your help that this was diagnosed.
My question is how and why does this happen?
I'm only using .44 specials instead of magnums for fear of this happening again.
The end of the yoke screw rides in a recess on the yoke button. Not sure what you mean by burnt or broken but your yoke screw could have been cracked or had a weak spot which allowed failure. No reason to not use the gun for which it was intended once repaired.
First, I don't understand how it could have been burnt, except for the top, the screw is enclosed within the frame. Describe what you mean by broken, ie: was the tip broken off and wedged between the yoke and frame? I'm also a factory trained armorer and it's almost impossible to answer your question without seeing the screw and possible inspecting the revolver. This is a problem I've never experienced in all my years of working on S&W revolvers.
The yoke screw on my Model 29 was burnt and broken, causing the cylinder to not close.
It may not be burned. This is how they ship from S&W now, with a dab of red stuff on the threads. It's probably not too hard for this delicate looking screw assembly to fail and crack.
Model 29 Issue Revisited
Linear Mode
