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S&W Revolvers: 1980 to the Present All NON-PINNED Barrels, the L-Frames, and the New Era Revolvers


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Old 03-22-2020, 01:45 PM
Jimmys&w Jimmys&w is offline
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Barrel to Frame Gap Model 29-10 Barrel to Frame Gap Model 29-10 Barrel to Frame Gap Model 29-10 Barrel to Frame Gap Model 29-10 Barrel to Frame Gap Model 29-10  
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Default Barrel to Frame Gap Model 29-10

I have a gap on the lower lug to the frame and I’m wondering how other 29-10’s compare or if they have a gap at all. Attached is a lovely picture from S&W’s site that shows where I’m talking about. Notice there is no gap. I’m not attaching a photo of my own because the gap is... well let’s say it’s 3 feet for arguments sake. Not to mention the folks that’ll chime in and give me the great advice of “Just shoot it and enjoy” or “It’s a tool, treat it as such” or “If it’s x amount I wouldn’t worry” or.... should I go on? Ah hell why not since we’re in the midst of social distancing. “If you don’t like it sell it” or “I have the gap and just live with it, I suggest you do the same”

Not sure if I’ve covered everything but I truly am curious of other 29-10’s. My grandfather’s 29-2 does not have a gap and I’ve held several 629’s with no gap. Oh and yes.. I’ve emailed S&W and will be sending it in to get her re-blued after cylinder burn - their offer - and a screw is headed my way to stop future burn.
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Last edited by Jimmys&w; 03-22-2020 at 02:53 PM.
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Old 03-22-2020, 02:14 PM
Protocall_Design Protocall_Design is offline
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The back of the barrel has a boss on it around where the barrel screws into the frame. Above and below the round boss is cut for clearance, usually a thousandth or 2. Only the round boss is supposed to touch the frame. Sometimes the clearance part gets cut too much, resulting in an obvious gap. This is a variable in the manufacturing process. Yes, a big gap looks bad. You have to get a gun with a close gap in exactly the right position to see it, but they all have some amount.
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