I've got a used 317 headed this way. I'm a simple man with simple taste in gun scrubbers and have always used Hoppes on my stuff.

Does anyone know if Hoppes #9 is ok for the finish on the 317?

The clear coat on the aluminum alloy parts of these is not durable, so I would recommend not leaving Hoppes #9 (or any solvent, for that matter) on the surfaces for any length of time.

If you are a betting man you could try leaving it on a small area of the grip frame under where the rubber grip covers the metal, but that would not be the simple way to do things.

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Alan
SWCA LM 2023, SWHF 220

I used to have a 642 that got sent back TWICE for a refinish because of the peeling. It never saw anything other than Hoppes #9 and oil. S&W even told me to only use gun oil to clean it. I even had a separate cleaning brush to be sure it wasn’t contaminated with Hoppes. I’ve heard the new Hoppes Elite and MPro 7 are okay with the finish. Unless they’ve improved the finish I won’t vouch for it.

I clean my 63-5 with mineral spirits and mineral oil. Seems to work fine even with filthy bulk 22.

What of curiosity what does the Owner's Manual say?

Any more now a days I just use a Full Synthetic Motor Oil
and Makeup Cotton Eye Rounds to wipe/clean Guns with.

So far my S&W 637 38Spl has stayed in perfect condition.

The Best to you and your Endeavors.

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SD social distanc'n since 1889

I have an older 637 J frame that I've always used Hoppe 9 on.... granted that I haven't cleaned it a lot of times, but so far, the finish doesn't seem damaged. I didn't even know that the surface of these aluminum guns had a 'clear coat' (??).
Could one simply spray on his own lacquer finish if need be..?
J.

Ammonia eats aluminum and the cheap finishes that are used on aluminum alloy firearms such as the 317.

Using it on a model 63 is irrelevant because the 63 is made steel as opposed to aluminum.

While some people say "it's never hurt my firearm", why risk it with yours? Admittedly, I'm a bit of a snob when it comes to doing things the right way. You'll have to decide for you how much of a risk taker you are, and how much buying another $10 bottle of aluminum safe cleaner is going to hurt your wallet compared to sending it in for a refinish. The aluminum finishes don't have the same character worn blue does, instead they just look like painted guns that have started to chip; its ugly.

Do it right, do it light. Do it wrong, do it long.

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Ban this man,
'89

I have an early 317 and I’ve only used Hoppes and Remoil. But I keep the Hoppes to a minimum, usually only on the barrel, dry it all off immediately, and then copiously wipe with Remoil to dilute anything left. Looks fine so far.

I've gone several times to pick up some suggested synthetic alternative, and never yet found one available on the shelf.

Edit: 637 and 642 here also, pretty much the same story.

Edit 2: Use a nylon brush on the 317 cylinder!

My wife has had her 317 for five years. Hoppes is treating it just fine.

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Mike
S&WCA #3065

I keep beating the MPro-7 drum but it is the best thing I have found recently for cleaning. Use the gun cleaner to get the carbon off and then use the CLP to lube the gun. I like the smell of #9 when I'm at the deer hunting camp but at home, not so much. The MPro has almost no odor and can even clean those nasty carbon rings on the front of your revolver cylinder. I hate to say it, but I think, at this point, #9 is obsolete.

For the clear coating on aluminum, I think it's hit or miss. I've only used Break Free CLP on two 642-1s and they both ended up with finish issues.

I believe the S&W manual refers to ammoniated solvents, like the old Hoppes #9, but I think the currently available one is not ammoniated. So it should be ok. To be safe, try to keep it off the aluminum frame and wipe it off if you can't. I don't know how this affects the finish on the steel components as both of my airweights use unfinished stainless steel. It'd probably be best not to let it sit for too long.

To be even safer, go with one of the newer breed of non-toxic solvents. I've used MPro-7 cleaner in the past and just started using it again as I want to go to non-toxic solvents and lubes, and it's been working fine for me.

Bought in 2005 , WD40 doesn't seem to have done any damage to whatever the "finish " is on my 317 w/ 3" bbl. and adjust. sights .
The finish looks like some kind of silver paint at best .
WD40 isn't very aggressive as cleaners go but it doesn't do any damage.

Gary

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Certified Cajun
NRA Member

Yes, but what is the NAME of this $10 aluminum safe cleaner you are speaking of?

Another MPro-7 fan. I have a jar half full that I soak my J frame cylinders in, and it does a good job on the Carbon, without the need to keep my windows open.

Best,
Rick

WD40 seemed to leave gummy deposits on my Commander, and left a definite greenish cast and turquoise stains on the satin nickel (over years of storage).

Mpro-7 has been my cleaner of choice for the last few years. No problems with the cleaning results or finish on any gun I own.

Take a look at Gunzilla. I guy was selling it at a show several years ago. I purchased a small bottle to try it out and was very impressed. I have been using it almost exclusively for the last few years. Very pleasant odor and non corrosive. I do use a small amount of oil as well but they claim that it lubes and leaves a coating that prevents friction.

FWIW, I am getting ready to walnut/bead blast my 642 because of the "paint job" not holding up on it. Planning on building a DIY blasting cabinet and blaster from a HF air gun. Have all the stuff bought, just need to get off it and get on it...

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WD40 left inside your gun will turn to varnish and render it useless. I had a police officer show up at one of my ranges with his 4046. When he tried to qualify, the gun wouldn't fire. It was spotless clean but there wasn't even a dimple on the primers. He had cleaned the gun after his last qualification and lubed it with WD40. The fluid migrated into the firing pin channel where it turned to varnish. I had to use a hammer and punch to drive out the firing pin to get the gun to work. I don't know how long he had been on patrol with a dead gun in his holster. WD40 is great on rusty bolts and outboard motors but keep it off your guns.

If you like Hoppes, switch to Hoppes Elite. No ammonia.

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NRA Benefactor Member

I ended up using Kroil, since I had some on hand. It and a tooth brush worked pretty good.

I have a 642 that occasionally gets Hoppes elite in the chambers and barrel. For the most part, I use S&W's synthetic-safe bore and action cleaner. Works well.

What's you guys opinion on RemOil? i've been using it for a few years now for cleaning and wiping my guns down. Seems to be good stuff in my experience.