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S&W Revolvers: 1980 to the Present All NON-PINNED Barrels, the L-Frames, and the New Era Revolvers


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Old 05-22-2020, 03:18 PM
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Hey everyone. Itís been a while since Iíve been on the forum - 2 little boys keep me pretty busy!!

I want my wife to start carrying her 637 more often so I am helping her pick out a new holster and going to encourage her to shoot more often. Iím wanting to replace the hammer with a spurless 1 - to keep it simple and keep her from snagging it. I canít seem to find 1. Anyone know where to pick 1 up?

Thanks
Tom


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Old 05-25-2020, 12:09 AM
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If it were me I would buy a used hammer on ebay and grind it down to suit. That way you can always put it back to original. Used J hammers don't cost a lot.
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Old 05-25-2020, 06:54 AM
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If it were me I would buy a used hammer on ebay and grind it down to suit. That way you can always put it back to original. Used J hammers don't cost a lot.

I was hopping that would be my last resort. I definitely agree I will want to put it back to factory. I thought at 1 time there was a company selling them?


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Old 05-25-2020, 12:09 PM
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Have you considered a model 638 or model 642?
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Old 05-25-2020, 01:18 PM
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Have you considered a model 638 or model 642?
With his wife already having a 637, he would save some serious dinero buy replacing the hammer instead of the whole gun. I'd be willing to bet that's was he was thinking.

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Old 05-25-2020, 04:01 PM
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If you go the bobbed hammer route be sure to run a good many rounds through it to check for function. The MIM hammers on the 637 are much lighter than the old forged hammers that people bobbed back in the day. With that mass further reduced from the bob you could end up with light primer strikes particularly if you've installed reduced power springs. Proceed with caution.

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Old 05-25-2020, 04:17 PM
Bill In Texas Bill In Texas is offline
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If it were me I would buy a used hammer on ebay and grind it down to suit. That way you can always put it back to original. Used J hammers don't cost a lot.
That's what I did.
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Old 05-25-2020, 07:23 PM
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Me too. I bought a new hammer from S&W (I believe) just in case I screwed up the bob-job. I did the job on the new hammer and kept the original hammer to restore to original when/if I ever sold it. I used a Dremel cut-off wheel to cut the hammer spur off and then files and polishing wheel to smooth the outside for looks. Here she is (forgot what year I did this, but it was a good while ago... definitely a pre-lock). I also tested in freezing cold weather; left it on the bench all day and tested for reliability.... it was fine.

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Old 05-25-2020, 07:26 PM
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I always just cut the hammer. Its easy, takes only a little time, and ignition problems have never occurred in the 12-15 of them I did. In fact, dimples in the primers were LARGER after trimming the hammer.
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Old 05-25-2020, 10:45 PM
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My 37 is a gun I will always keep. I bobbed the hammer but can still cock it if need be.
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Old 05-26-2020, 01:57 AM
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My 37 is a gun I will always keep. I bobbed the hammer but can still cock it if need be.
Leaving enough hammer to cock it if you have the time and need the accuracy. I may buy a hammer for my 360 and try this
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Old 05-26-2020, 01:00 PM
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Thanks for all the advice. I was trying to keep this from turning into a project - I seem to be a magnet for work!!! Iím sure some of you out there understand!!

Does this look right to you all?
Smith Wesson Hammer 39-9 39 60-9 331 337 TI 32 mag 637 690 317 22 J Frame 60-15 | eBay

Guy doesnít seem sure on what heís trying to sell...


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Old 05-26-2020, 01:23 PM
mikerjf mikerjf is offline
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That looks right to me - it's the type for the internal lock, but should work ok for either.

(FWIW, I happen to have a spare, got out the calipers and got the same measurements he is showing.)

Note that there's a couple other small parts (usually mounted on the hammer) that are missing on this one, so you'll have to transfer them from your original hammer. A sear and a spring, I think?

Last edited by mikerjf; 05-26-2020 at 01:34 PM.
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