What would be involved in properly securing a barrel to one of the Model 10 "Gunsmith Specials" being sold by J&G? Easy enough for me to do? Looks like it screws in. Will any Model 10 barrel fit properly? Thank you in advance.

All Model 10 barrels will fit the frame. The ones I saw for sale had the short ejector rod for a 2” barrel. The ejector lug on longer barels will be in the wrong place requiring a new ejector rod.

Kevin

__________________
Unshared knowledge is wasted.

It needs to be hand tightened to 10-12° before top dead center and then fixed into barrel blocks and a frame wrench to be tightened the rest of the way. If the barrel doesn’t hand tighten to the right spot the shoulder will need to be trimmed until it does. When the shoulder is trimmed you are likely going to have to adjust the barrel to cylinder gap. That is a whole different set of tools

__________________
-Matt

unless you want a specific project gun, aren't 10's cheap and plentiful enough?

__________________
Pete
I ain't no fortunate son

Though all the one piece Kfrrame barrels have the same threads, they do not all have the same rear profile and some might look odd. You really should have a frame wrench or some sort of blocks that fit and clamp the frame well for final tightening to avoid twisting the frame.

If the the barrel times early you have 2 choices. Take a tiny bit of the rear shoulder of the barrel or off the fave of the frame. It is best to do it off the barrel. If you mess up the frame its wrecked. New barrels are easier to come by. You could do it with a small file with one edge safed (teeth ground off). Take a sharpie and blacken the face of the frame and barrel and then screw in the barrel, High spots will ink rubbed off. Lightly file these. It won't take much to move the frame. .0278 will get one revolution. So 10 degrees is only .0007+

I think all of these gunsmith specials come with the short ejector rod. The longer one is easy to come by and change out.

I know of several guys that have recently bought one of these 10-7's without the barrel. None has been able to find a 2" barrel for replacement, as the inventory out there sold out fast. These are non-pinned barrel receivers, so I don't know if that makes a difference when replacing a barrel, something to consider. I am personally on the "fence" on also buying one of these with the hopes of some day finding a 2" barrel at a gun show or somewhere. I like the round butt for concealment. The ones I have seen are in fairly good shape, one was off time and the blueing on the others, just honest holster wear, but the actions were tight.

__________________
Kevin in Oregon

I posted about it before too. I built one because I had an extra 4” heavy barrel and parts from a 10-8 that I turned into a model 13. The gun turned out good, it shoots straight and is fairly accurate.

I have thought about buying another but to get a parts kit you’re gonna pay almost as much as the gun. If you have to spend more than $300 to build your gun you could probably buy one cheaper. Good luck finding just a barrel and having it screw on and not needing any other parts

__________________
-Matt

I bought two of the 10-7s from J&G. I also bought a 2" and a 5" barrel for them elsewhere on the internet, shortly after I ordered the guns (when J&G first offered them earlier this year.) I had no problem finding either at a decent price - $99 for the 2" and $114 for the 5". I have an ejector rod of the proper length for the 5 in my parts collection, so the only thing left is to get up to the gunsmith for installation.
These will be the 3rd and 4th barrel installs I've done since retiring. They all go to the same gunsmith in Apache Junction. He knows his way around S&W revolvers and has done excellent work for me already: the 4" to 2" Model 34 is near-perfect, and the Model 10-10 conversion to 3" and .357, the "happy accident" I posted here on the Forum when it happened, is awesome. I have no doubt he'll put together a pair of good shooters for me with these.

The pin makes no difference. You can file or mill a flat onto a non-pinned barrel so that you can use the pin on a pinned frame. You can put a pinned barrel onto a non-pinned frame. You can put a non-pinned barrel onto a pinned frame and either not install the pin or cut the pin and install the ends of the pin. The pin actually has nothing to do with properly retaining the barrel, the barrel is retained by torque.

What does matter, from a cosmetic point of view, is an empty pin hole or a mismatch of the barrel sight rib and frame.

__________________
VCDL, GOA, NRA

OK, thanks! I think that I will keep shooting 38 out of my 367's!