Hi.
I was trying to clean my new Model 19 (.357 Magnum) according to a video I found on youtube, and it says that bronze brush is supposed to go into the chambers and into the barrel. But it won't fit. The cleaning kit I have is for 9mm, which I understand also works for .38 special and Magnum 357. But when I try to push the bronze brush into the barrel it doesn't really want to go. It's too tight. Should I use more force to cram it in there? The brush seems so rough and sharp I am terrified of scratching something if I force it. I am able to get it into the chambers of the cylinder but only by using a lot of force.
Any suggestions?

wrong brush in kit?

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Merle, retired
western PA

Go shopping for a 9mm/.38/.357 brush and compare it to the one you have. That is an inexpensive way to check for correct size. A correct new brass brush will require a fair amount of force and it is unlikely to scratch steel because it is much softer. That said you certainly don't want to be trying to force a .45 brush down the barrel.

That is a good suggestion. Worst thing that can happen is I have two brushes or two cleaning kits, which will all get used anyway.

You won't have to buy another complete kit. Most places that carry firearm cleaning supplies will have individual brushes in various sizes available for purchase.

Yep Academy and similar stores most places will have individual brushes.

A lot of brushes have the caliber marked on the shank. You might check that.

Remember that chambers are a hair larger in diameter than bores. A .357 bore brush can do an adequate job at scrubbing chambers, but if you shoot a lot, especially with cast bullets, you might want to use a .40/10mm bore brush on the chambers.

Also running a dry bore snake through the bore & chambers as soon as you’re through shooting will save a lot of scrubbing later. Fowling comes loose a lot more easily when it’s still warm.

No one has asked, but you're speaking of a round brush - correct?

Yes, round brush, the kind that's at the end of like a small metal rod

Yes!!! You are absolutely right. The brush says ".38" on it, so now I know it's the right size for my 357 Magnum.
I'm starting to think maybe I should get over my fear of scratching something and cram it in there more forcefully???

You been shooting chickens with yours?

It's supposed to be a tight fit otherwise it won't get in the lands and grooves and do it's job.
You should have a bore guide when cleaning a revolver since you have to go in from the muzzle end which has a precision cut crown on it. Here's a picture of a bore guide.

Attached Images

bore guide.jpg (4.6 KB, 41 views)

It is not possible to scratch steel with a brass cleaning brush. It is possible to accumulate grit on a cleaning rod and the grit can wear the bore. Wipe off your cleaning rods and use cleaning solvent on the brushes for best effect. DO NOT reverse the brush in the bore; it damages the brush. Push all the way through the bore, and then pull back. Use a cloth patch on a jag to wipe out the bore. When the brush wears down until it is loose in the bore, get a new brush.
Brownells usually has a spiral steel "Tornado" brush for cleaning chambers; do not use in the bore. You can buy brushes sized for the chambers to make cleaning easier. It is far more important to keep the chambers clean than the bore for reliability.
Fifty years shooting revolvers

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Science plus Art

I would never stick something in a barrel from the end, only the direction the bullet travels.


I have Hoppe's BoreSnakes for all of my guns including my rifles.

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Kenny
Endeavor to persevere.

Buy a model 29 or 629 and see if the brush fits.

That's some of the best advice I've ever read here in this forum.

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Kenny
Endeavor to persevere.

Tips : (I learned the hard way)
Open the cylinder . Use some CLP on the brush and barrel first . Insert brush from muzzle , new brush will be tight , push it all the way through ...Do Not go halfway down the barrel and try to pull the brush out...the bristles will not easily reverse in the barrel ...shove the brush through then pull it back into the barrel and out .
Nylon Bristle brushes don't clean quite as well but they are easy to push and pull through and Nylon will not damage a thing .
After a couple uses the brush will compress and be easier to use .
They will wear out...I wrap the worn out brushes in 0000 steel wool to get a little more cleaning use...wrapped brushes are good for cleaning the cylinder chambers and throats .

J. B. Bore Cleaning Paste is your friend ... get some and keep it in your cleaning kit , follow the directions for use.
Gary

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Certified Cajun
NRA Member

Yes, ALWAYS use a bore guide when cleaning your revolver.

First gun? Congratulations!!

People have been cleaning revolvers from the front since they were invented. Bore Snakes are OK and I have them for all my calibers; but I just use them as a final pass or two or when I’m done shooting to get what I can before the real cleaning. They don’t take the place of a bite brush and patches and never will.

If the brush is marked .38 then it should fit. Just spray CLP all over the brush and down the barrel. Break Free is safe and effective. Later on it might be good to use a strong bore cleaner, such as Hoppe's or Shooter's Choice. If all else fails, Gun Scrubber might help. As others stated, a bore guide will avoid damage to the crown.

Bore snakes are very easy to use , you can drop the weighted pull string in from the forcing cone end of the barrel and pull it through out the muzzle , no damage .
I use two snakes , one is soaked in CLP / solvent and used to clean bbl and chambers ...
the other is kept oiled and used to oil the bbl and chambers .
Keep the rod and brush , you need to use them to do a good deep cleaning and to push things out of a bbl .
Gary

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Certified Cajun
NRA Member

There is a good chance that there is lead built up in the barrel and charging holes of the cylinder. Back in the day, more soft lead bullets were fired through these guns for practice, police qualifications, etc. than copper jacketed. It is hard for the naked eye to identify the lead build up, but if you force the brush all the way through the barrel, you'll see the shiny lead bits come out, if lead is present. Soaking the barrel and cylinder holes with a good penetrating oil, like Kroil, Liquid Wrench, etc. for an extended period (days) will eventually work it's way under the lead and make it's removal easier.

I use a 40 cal brush for the chamber and 38 for the bore. Remember to use a tooth brush under the extractor to clean the powder residue .