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S&W Revolvers: 1980 to the Present All NON-PINNED Barrels, the L-Frames, and the New Era Revolvers


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Old 08-01-2020, 02:02 PM
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newest addition. 625-2 model of 1989. probably paid a little much, $840 after shipping and transfer. but it is what i wanted. any way here you go. not my pics.website. thanks, kenny
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Old 08-01-2020, 02:16 PM
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That one is going to give you many an hour of fun shooting.
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Old 08-01-2020, 02:19 PM
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I don't think you overpaid. The later ones with the IL are about $800 used. Don't see the earlier ones like your -2 very often so I think a total cost of $840 is actually a very good price for one in excellent condition. Enjoy it, they are great guns.

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Old 08-01-2020, 02:32 PM
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I congratulate you on your purchase, your revolver looks great, I am sure it will give you a lot of satisfaction on the shooting range.
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Old 08-01-2020, 03:35 PM
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Thumbs up S&W 625-2

You have a late model dash 2 made just before S&W came out with the dash 3. I have one just like it which I used in USPSA competition for over 20 years. I retired it a few years ago when I discovered the chronoed velocity from my 5" dash-2 was lower than I was getting from a 625 with a 4" bbl. I believe the bore wore just enough to lower the velocity. I didn't want to add more powder so I retired it.
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Old 08-01-2020, 05:02 PM
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thanks for the replies all. S&Wiowegan, did you keep a round count? must have been a few to wear the barrel like that. hopefuly that reflects on the number of rounds and not an inferior metallurgy. thank, kenny
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Old 08-01-2020, 08:42 PM
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Do not think you overpaid at all.
If you did, so what. Your money and now your gun. I donít let 10-15% over what I perceive value at keep me from owning something that I really want if they are hard to come by. You may wait a long long time before you find another like it.
Congrats on a great gun.
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Old 08-01-2020, 09:23 PM
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I don't think that you overpaid. I have it's twin brother, and I wouldn't let it go for less than $1200, it is a fantastic shooter
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Old 08-02-2020, 11:39 AM
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Like the others have said already you have a great shooting revolver there if everything is okay. Those early 625ís have a great reputation in competition and generally support pricing like you paid. However your gun does have one problem that I can see but itís easily corrected. Those Pachmayr grips use a screw that interferes with the mainspring. It actually contacts the spring on cocking and in the DA mode creates a noticeable knuckle or hard spot. Swap out the grips and problem solved ó S&W did just that shortly after your gun was made.

Rick
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Old 08-02-2020, 11:57 AM
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Like the others have said already you have a great shooting revolver there if everything is okay. Those early 625ís have a great reputation in competition and generally support pricing like you paid. However your gun does have one problem that I can see but itís easily corrected. Those Pachmayr grips use a screw that interferes with the mainspring. It actually contacts the spring on cocking and in the DA mode creates a noticeable knuckle or hard spot. Swap out the grips and problem solved ó S&W did just that shortly after your gun was made.

Rick

thanks for the reply and the heads up on the grips. just another reason for me to replace them. first reason i just can't warm up to the looks of the rubbers but i must admit they do what they are supposed to do which is to help manage recoil? not sure what i have in my grip stash but in stash or not they will be replaced. probably with something in a nice wood. we'll see. thanks, kenny
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Old 08-02-2020, 02:16 PM
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Yes, the price was fair. I have the same model and first added Culina walnut target grips and now a Holosun HE507C green dot sight mounted with a Raptor mount.


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Old 08-02-2020, 02:35 PM
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I would say that was a fair price. Regardless, any concerns regarding the price will vanish the first time you shoot it. You'll wish you bought one sooner.
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Old 08-02-2020, 03:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garbler View Post
Those Pachmayr grips use a screw that interferes with the mainspring. It actually contacts the spring on cocking and in the DA mode creates a noticeable knuckle or hard spot. Swap out the grips and problem solved ó S&W did just that shortly after your gun was made.

Rick
I own 3 of these guns, one in each barrel length, and none of them exhibit this condition. They all have excellent trigger pulls.
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Old 08-02-2020, 03:07 PM
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You got a great deal on that.

The 625 in 45acp is one of the sweetest shooting S&Ws out there.

You need moon clips.

I highly recommend RIMZ Polymer moon clips.

I am not affiliated with them in any way. Just a satisfied customer c

You snap them in and unsnap them easily with just your fingers.

There is not any need for a loading or unloading tool.

You want the RIMZ model 25, NOT the 625.

Even though your gun is a 625, the model 25 RIMZ is what you want for a 625-2.

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Old 08-02-2020, 05:19 PM
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Quote:
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You got a great deal on that.

The 625 in 45acp is one of the sweetest shooting S&Ws out there.

You need moon clips.

I highly recommend RIMZ Polymer moon clips.

I am not affiliated with them in any way. Just a satisfied customer c

You snap them in and unsnap them easily with just your fingers.

There is not any need for a loading or unloading tool.

You want the RIMZ model 25, NOT the 625.

Even though your gun is a 625, the model 25 RIMZ is what you want for a 625-2.


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thanks for the info. i had a 22-4 thunder ranch in 45 ACP so i have a dozen or so moons but may give them a try. 22-4 had the IL and i just couldn't get past that. so went to the gun show with me and found someone who wanted it more that me. same with my 69. no more IL at kenny's house. thanks again, kenny
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Old 08-02-2020, 05:43 PM
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So Girvin you have three 625’s with different barrels lengths. Then I suspect you don’t have a 625-2 with this condition unless you installed these grips on the guns yourself. Those Pachmayrs were only offered on these guns I believe in 1989 the first year. These were 5” . This problem was discovered by gunsmith Ron Power who like many performance smiths was getting buried for competition action jobs when they first came out. The factory changed grips next year and I was told would replace them back then.

Actually if you look at OldChiefs photos above you can see the different location of his grip screw. It’s farther back and lower. I’m not surprised if you say you can’t feel the interference because when I was doing work on these guns I had few customers that couldn’t either until I took the grips off then they sometimes weren’t sure. If you shoot DA a lot and competitively either straight pull clean or staging the cylinder you can certainly feel the problem. Some guys mistakenly call it stacking but it’s not an accumulation of tolerances but interference to the loaded arc of the mainspring.

I honestly think this condition may have been at the source of some of these early 625’s having light hits with moon clips but it was cleared up fast by Steve Melvyn and the new British owners so it never became a big publicized problem.

Rick
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Old 08-02-2020, 06:06 PM
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I have a 5" 625-2 Model of 1988. The other two are 625-3's. I pulled the -2 out of the safe after reading your initial post. I can assure you that there is no contact between the grip screw and the leaf spring. The trigger pull has no "stacking". There is no witness mark on the spring from contacting the screw. Holding the grip open, while pressing the screw in place and pulling the trigger, I observed a gap of at least .080" between screw and spring. I did notice that the screw is relieved, to add clearance for the spring (see picture below). Perhaps that wasn't always the case. BTW, both of my -3's came with Pachmayrs. I once owned a 5" -4 that came with a Hogue Monogrip.


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Old 08-02-2020, 06:23 PM
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Quote:
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I have a 5" 625-2 Model of 1988. The other two are 625-3's. I pulled the -2 out of the safe after reading your initial post. I can assure you that there is no contact between the grip screw and the leaf spring. The trigger pull has no "stacking". There is no witness mark on the spring from contacting the screw. Holding the grip open, while pressing the screw in place and pulling the trigger, I observed a gap of at least .080" between screw and spring. I did notice that the screw is relieved, to add clearance for the spring (see picture below). Perhaps that wasn't always the case. BTW, both of my -3's came with Pachmayrs. I once owned a 5" -4 that came with a Hogue Monogrip.

I think that may be one of the corrected grips I as told about but never seen. Nice catch and you are probably right. The factory got rid of these grips the next year so they were only on these guns for a short time.

When I was working on these guns I reshaped and tuned the main spring but I know the Wolf spring were reportedly even worse with these grips. However Iíve never had a stock S&W K, L or N frame that didnít have some Ď stacking Ď or harder pull and the end. Some are way better than others but itís there.

Rick
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Old 08-02-2020, 06:42 PM
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You are going to love it. I put Hogue grips on mine and they are great for shooting, which is what you do with this gun. I also use auto rim brass. I know there's lots of moon clip fan boys out there and they work too but I think they're a pain.
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Old 08-02-2020, 06:47 PM
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Quote:
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I think that may be one of the corrected grips I as told about but never seen. Nice catch and you are probably right. The factory got rid of these grips the next year so they were only on these guns for a short time.

When I was working on these guns I reshaped and tuned the main spring but I know the Wolf spring were reportedly even worse with these grips. However Iíve never had a stock S&W K, L or N frame that didnít have some Ď stacking Ď or harder pull and the end. Some are way better than others but itís there.

Rick
I got me to wondering about this so I went a drug out a box of old revolver grips. I have six Pachmayr rubber grips all from around the early to late 90ís Iím guessing. Everyone that is for a S&W K,L or N frame has the stepped screw like in your photo. The J-frame grips donít and neither do the two Colt grips. It appears to me that just maybe Pachmayr changed these screws for S&Wís except the coil spring J-frames. Curious
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Old 08-02-2020, 11:33 PM
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If you don't want to mess with moon clips, Starline offers .45 Auto Rim brass for $111 for 500 shipped. I just picked up 500 from them and when I finish shooting all the .45 ACP I have in moon clips I plan to switch. Then I'll just shoot my 45 ACP in my 1911s.
If you reload, for 45 Auto Rim you just use the .45 ACP dies but you must change the shell holder. I use RCBS equipment and I have to use a #8 instead of a #3 for 45 Auto Rim.
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Old 08-03-2020, 09:14 AM
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Yes I prefer the auto rim also but back when these guns were just coming out the brass was unavailable. Luckily it’s out there now. With the rim to headspace on you can use a roll crimp which lets you play around with some pretty high performance loads if you want.
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Old 08-03-2020, 09:22 AM
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I paid a bit less for one with a box, about a year or so ago.I think you did just fine.

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