Before I drive to look at this guys 586 No dash, he says "lock up is a little loose, but still in spec".

Thoughts?

If it is within spec, why mention it?

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The important thing is the condition of the cylinder stop window in the frame and the stop slots in the cylinder itself. Because of the heavier cylinder in the L-frame, these components take a beating, and, if the gun has been abused, there could be an issue that could not be solved by a simple parts replacement and fitting. (i.e. new cylinder stop)

My advice would be to take a magnifier, and check the center pin hole in the breechface, the cylinder stop window, and the cylinder stop slots. Any abuse (peening and damage) should be readily apparent.

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

Lock up is not a very descriptive term. What does that actually mean? At any rate, most any looseness can be remedied by a good revo smith, so it might be worthwhile if you can get a good deal and know (of) a smith you can take it to. Maybe the idea that the "lockup" is loose can get you a discount. A 586 is normally a pretty good revolver.

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protocalldesign.com

You guys are kinda advising what I thought you would. He does have it pretty reasonably priced.

I will check those items closely. We have a couple of pretty good smiths here. I will talk to them before I go and see if one of them would work on it and get their thoughts.

Thanks

If he means side to side play in the cylinder with the trigger pulled back and the hammer down that is not generally and issue unless it’s so loose that the bullets are shaving at the forcing cone and spitting jacket material or lead

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-Matt

Colt revolvers, due to the design of their lock work, will, with the trigger pulled to the rear, lock the cylinder "bank vault tight". S&W, and most other revolvers, have a lock work that will allow a little, and we are talking just 2 or 3 thousandths of an inch, back and forth play and a little rotational play in the cylinder with the trigger pulled to the rear.


When looking for wear on a revolver, also look for erosion at the edge of the barrel's forcing cone, an erosion cut in the top strap just above the forcing cone, and for what will look like imprints of case heads on the recoil shield.

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VCDL, GOA, NRA

Unless you can properly fix it yourself, I would pass. The cost of a gunsmith (bubba, no) could make it not a reasonable price. ONLY my opinion. Bob