First up, I want to thank everyone here that has been recently providing advice on S&W revolvers I received

as part of a family collection. Seems I came to the right place.


You've helped me with info on a Model 63, 617, and 629 I received 12 years ago.

Now for just a question or two on the fourth and final revolver in the collection, a 90 or 91 model 66 with 4" barrel.
This one was the only part of the collection I didn't receive 12 years ago, instead I got this about 2 years ago.
Unfortunately when I got it, I inspected it and it was so different from the rest, it was, ok, well just plain dirty!
Clearly .38spl used with the chambers showing a serious shelf of crud matching up to that cartridge size.

My best guess is it sat dirty in a wood gun cabinet inside a house from approximately 1999 to 2018.

In 2018 immediately cleaned it out and on inspection I found some spots that you can see in the picture of bore just inside
the forcing cone. It may appear like this is on a land but its in a grove. I cleaned it at the time with Hoppes 9 and
brass brush. To be honest I can't tell if its something missing or something added (lead). Since it was so dirty my
conclusion is this is a pitted spot since it is just one location in the bore. But that's why I'm here.

Again, I can't tell if its pitting or not, my old eyes can't tell if the surface in that area is raised or depressed!

However, in the grand scheme of things - is this going to mean a hill of beans to its performance?
Its just one spot in a grove at the start of the barrel but that's why I asking here you guys are the experts!

I have not fired it yet but out of the four revolvers for some reason I think this is the one to have and never let go.
Are these 66's a lesser model to the 686s? When you hold and sight this thing it seems damn perfect.
This one might be the revolver that makes me keep all the rest and converts me from semi autos.

I do also have the original wood checkered grips in VG condition saved away.
The hogue I installed might not be doing it justice but I thought I start with it this way at the range.

Any information would be helpful on the spot(s) in the 3rd picture and any general information much appreciated.
I don't need any pricing info on this one for sure.

Looks like lead to me.

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Pine_Worker
Ex-LEO, NRA Life

Pine_Worker, thanks for the reply. Somewhere around here is info on a product to safely remove leading so I'll do some searchin!

The mod.66 is the stainless brother of the mod. 19, built on the K frame, the 686 is an L frame, a lot of people think that the 4” 19/66 is the perfect 357, and I agree. As for the spot it looks to be lead build up to me, put a small bend on a paperclip and see what you feel,

Here's a source for the Lewis Lead Remover tool set:
Lead Remover Kit, 9mm/.38 : BROWNELLS LEWIS LEAD REMOVER | Brownells

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66/642/640/627/586/60/638/686

Thanks, next time I grab it out of the safe I'll give that a try. I've just been learning the different frame sizes but for some reason just never checked that a 686 is an L. At least I got the K right when ordering the hogue grip.


I'm reading about the K's with the flat at 6 oclock position can be prone to suffer cracks from 357 magnum, you pointing out and reminding me I have a K led me to do that. Thank you.



I've got mostly .38spl in the safe maybe just 1 or 2 boxes of .357 so I may pass that to a friend for use in his 686.

The grips for the K frame also fit the L frame.

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Pine_Worker
Ex-LEO, NRA Life

Model 66 dash 2 or later.

I wouldn't worry too much about damaging your gun with .357 loads. After all, it IS a .357 Magnum caliber gun, rated for full power magnum loads. If there is an issue, it has to do with lightweight bullet magnum loads, specifically the 110 and 125 grain bullets. As they have a substantial velocity increase over the "standard" 158 grain load, when fired, they strike the forcing cone at greater speed and this purportedly can create sufficient shock over time to crack the forcing cone at that narrow point.

All that said, I have a much older M19-3, it's about 45 years old, and I've shot several hundred rounds of 125 grain JHP through it, along with many times that of 158 grain, without any damage. I have no idea what the previous owner(s) put through the gun before I bought it; I've had it about 7 years.

Treat your nice revolver like you would any other quality firearm and it will be fine.

Looks like there is still lead in the barrel. Solvents will not dissolve lead. I'd recommend a Lewis Lead Remover. If you do not want to invest in a Lewis Lead Remover, then get a genuine Chore Boy pure copper pot scrubber. Make sure it is pure copper, many of the off-brands are actually copper plated steel.



Dry the barrel bore. Cut a piece of that pot scrubber and wrap it around a bronze bore brush. The best method of passing the lead remover through the barrel is to insert the cleaning rod through the muzzle, then put the brush into the frame window and screw it onto the rod, then pull the brush with the copper strands through the barrel. It may take several attempts, but this will strip away the lead without damaging the barrel.


As for ammo in the K-frame 357's, the lightweight, full power loads are the worst offenders. There is less wear when using full power 158 grain magnum loads. For self-defense, the reduced power, short barrel magnum loads are excellent. Bullet technology has changed since the 1970's-2000.

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VCDL, GOA, NRA

I appreciate all the feedback and based on that I'll grab a lead remover kit.

It wouldn't be the first time I've spent a little extra to get the right tools such as a specific punch or decent screw driver set. I didn't yet try the bent paperclip check as suggested but certainly can while waiting for the kit to come in.

I'd love to take it to the range this weekend but I'll wait.

I have PMC FMJ for when I get this out to range but just curious if plain lead 38spl would have been a typical range round in the 90's or were wad cutters available then too?

Apologies in advance on dumb questions, just familiar with FMJ for practice use in my centerfire pistols and using copper coated for my 22s with the exception of a few hundred rounds of plain lead I grabbed in a hurry when it was on the shelf at my LGS.

I would just run some full metal jacket rounds through that barrel. Prolly clear that lead right out of there, and it's more fun than a bronze brush.

Cast and swaged lead bullets have been around forever and were the standard in 38 Special. I'm not sure when the wadcutter bullet was introduced, but it has been around since at least the 1950's and I'm guessing well before then.

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VCDL, GOA, NRA

Thanks for the information, previous feedback and your comment have me convinced its just lead buildup. This 66 is in great condition otherwise and I'm glad to have you guys help sort out what it needs to have done.

Attachment 467836 Can someone tell me if this grip on the 66-3(lower)is a factory grip? Don't know that I've seen one before. I'm used to the one on the 66-2(upper).Also,the 66-2 has a much wider hammer and what looks like night rear sights.Anyone have any thoughts on that?

Attached Images

model 66.jpg (86.1 KB, 138 views)

The factory grip that came on my 66-3 looks like the one your -2 (upper) picture.

The grips on the lower gun pre-date the revolver they are mounted upon. They are probably from a late 1960s to late 1979's K-frame. The gun would originally have shipped with stocks like the upper gun. Speculating, I'd guess that somebody removed the original wood grips, replaced them with rubber to handle recoil better, and later these "football targets" as they are called were put on because somebody liked them better than black rubber. This was common practice, maybe still is for some.

Thanks guys. Any thoughts on the difference in the rear sights and hammer width?model 66-2.jpg

Seems to me that white outline rear sight, target hammer and target trigger were extra cost factory options, although any gunsmith and good number of DIY types could purchase and install them as upgrades based on their personal preferences. There are only two ways to know if a particular revolver came with these options or if they were added later on. You must either have the original box, which indicates any options, or pay for a S&W letter.

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VCDL, GOA, NRA

66-2 info.jpg I think this tells the tale.I'm thinking of purchasing the Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson.Will that tell me what I need to know?

If you have the product code, you can compare it to the codes listed in that book. That will likely confirm if your pistol was produced in the particular configuration in which it now exists or if it has been modified post-production. The book is a good addition to your library.

Not sure if you were able to see the photo. This is new,unfired in the original box.There was no card like some have in the box. But there is the original label on the box with a UPC label over it with different feature codes. I'm assuming that those are the option codes for the features added on at the factory.

Did you ever get that figured out TACPAPA?

Unfired? It took one trip out to the range with a 66 to hook me on these S&W revolvers. Subsequent trips since had me putting some serious number of rounds downrange. At this point I have to assess the ammo and lighten up a bit.
I've learned these are fun to shoot with .38spl, paper or steel, ok, more along the lines of serious fun!

The unfired 66-2 will remain unfired for purely sentimental reasons. I converted the 66-4 with white highlighted target sights and a Hogue 1000 grip. I carry it with a Galco leather holster. It's my side arm for when we go out hunting,mainly because of the hog problem we have. A big Amen to the 38 ammo. A pleasure to fire. The 357 mag shells are almost too much to be fun.

Attached Images

	66-4 conversion.jpg (81.8 KB, 50 views)
	galco holster.jpg (56.9 KB, 32 views)

19’s and 66’s are as close to perfect as you can get, IMHO.

Enjoy!

TS - Target Stocks
TT - Target Trigger
TH - Target Hammer

Nice 66. I carried one just like it on the job for several years. Mine has the combat trigger and hammer. I shot it in IDPA competition for 4 years too. Always made me look good.

I fired several thousand rounds through it in the two and a half decades (including two cases of the dreaded 125 grain 357 screamers) I have owned it. It sat in storage for the last several years. I recently went back to work at the local range as an instructor. So I broke it out and am using it as my teaching revolver, training new shooters. It has a great trigger and is still one of the most accurate guns I own. And I own some nice ones.

I agree with those who think that is lead buildup. A good cleaning and shooting some jacketed rounds should clear that up.

As far as the forcing cone goes, I can't opine. I have owned 13 different examples of model 66s. No dash through 66-4. I still own 4 examples. And I have shot the hell out of them. Including many full up 357 rounds. Mostly 158 grain. I keep the guns clean and lead free. And I don't worry about the forcing cones. I have never personally seen a broken forcing cone on a model 66.

For years I asked here and elsewhere if anyone had broken one on a 66 or knew someone who did. No takers. Anywhere. For years. Then someone here posted a picture of a cracked 66 forcing cone. IIRC there was few details posted with the picture. So, there you go. One broke.

Another member here had a few high mileage 66s. He never had a problem either. I don't think he still posts here though.

Anyways, nice 66. Keep it clean, and don't worry. Shoot it and enjoy it. It may be the nicest revolver S&W ever made. And there isn't one as nice being made any longer. Regards 18DAI

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7 +1 Rounds of hope & change

S = Stainless steel
RR = Red ramp(front sight)
WO =white outline(rear sight)

Very nice, looks great! I like that holster as well and appreciate you sharing. I'll be looking into those!

Thanks and great to hear that yours has come out of storage and getting some rotation! I've taken a liking to this one for sure, had it at the range again this past weekend I think these are the ultimate to learn on. I'm equally impressed with what it can do when firing DA compared to SA.

It was lead and that is all completely removed and bore looks really good, I clean it well after each trip and couldn't be more pleased with this firearm. I can see why many say these are one of the finest. Advice also taken on 357 rnds. I'm confident with it and hearing your feedback on the subject is awesome. When ready I won't give it a second thought to use them.