The factory firing pin spring seems noticeably stiffer and longer than the APEX supplied spring with the longer length firing pin.


I’m trying to determine which spring to use when the factory firing pin is replaced with the APEX (models 619, 686, and 327).


Keep using the factory spring? Or; Use the softer and probably shorter supplied spring?


Thoughts & recommendations would be appreciated.

Why? or what does a different (Apex) firing pin do for you VS the factory one??
Have you had trigger work on the gun, have problems with it going "bang"?

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Still Running Against the Wind

Certainly each company did their engineering and came up with what they thought worked best. If you bought an Apex and it came with a spring, I would think it was meant to go with their pin.

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S&W factory revolver armorer

Yes & Yes


Previous attempts to improve reliability have included all the usual suspects - strain screw adjustments/modifications, springs, primers and ammo types and on and on... prior recent adjustments have achieved about 95% reliability - sure would like a 100%.

Thank you for your reply - makes sense.

Well then another question. Who did the trigger work and what was done? If the gun does not fire correctly, then I would have issue with who did the work. If it was a DIY what was done. If springs changed then put them back,
Guess I am saying there is no real reason for a different FP and spring unless it is some competition gun.

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Still Running Against the Wind

When is it more important to have a reliable firearm - a competition or personal\home defense? -- for me it's the later every time.


Each of the revolvers has its own history and not all of each history is known to me... one originated in the Performance Center.



Attached is a picture of a strain screw which looks like it was held against a spinning grind stone by hand until it sparked enough to be done... just example of the many things encountered...


I document all of the things I've done. It's not a matter of just returning them to the way they were.


It now seems that an extended length firing pin is about their last chance to operate flawlessly.


My question is not if a longer firing pin should be tried - it is which firing pin spring might be generally expected to work best & why.


Thank you for your reply.

Attached Images

Strain Screw 686.jpg (177.6 KB, 49 views)

I have a 646 which was bluprinted and set up for competition. When I first tried it, it had various problems with headspace and cylinder gap that S&W fixed.
Then we lightened the pull( I stored the original mainspring and strain screw) for competition and installed the C&S firing pin to achieve 100% reliability, but only with Federal primers. Obviously, I no longer consider it a carry gun. The C&S firing pin comes with a warning NOT to dry fire, so I bought the APEX firing pin, which has no such limitation on dry firing. I use the firing pin spring that came with the aftermarket pin. Why mix and match?

If I wanted to return the revolver to a carry gun, all I need do is install the original S&W main spring and strain screw, which I have stored. The APEX firing pin is fine in a "stock" gun. All the smoothing and blueprinting is fine for either purpose, but I do not want to be limited to Federal primers for a carry gun.
Hope this helps.

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Science plus Art

Helps a great deal - Thank You.

I went with the Apex firing pin and spring.

How has it worked out for you?

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Smith, and Wesson, and Me.

Thanks for inquiring - I also went with the Apex spring for the firing pin. It has operated flawlessly using various amo - about 300 rounds.


I left the original ribed mainspring but exchanged the strain screw with one which is about .020 inches longer. That seemed to increase the trigger pull from a smooth 5 lbs. to a smooth 8 lbs. - a worthwhile trade off...


It is now such a pleasure to shoot!

The main spring strain screw is NOT adjustable! It must be turn all the way in and tight! If you are having FTF rounds I would suggest you use a trigger pull gauge(first)! I do all my own trigger work on MY gaming guns! These are not to be used for carry or home defense guns! I have found a DA pull of 7-7.5 lbs is as low as I can go, and then I MUST use Federal primers. ALL other brands will produce FTF rounds! I have never used a extended firing pin! If you believe you strain screw has been shortened, order a new one! You can use the cup from a spent prime(remove the anvil) placed over the end of the strain screw for a quick fix or trial. Test your gun for push off.
Cock the hammer in SA and push it as hard as you can without touching the trigger. The hammer should no fall! If it does, you may need a new hammer and trigger. Light triggers are not for all guns! ! !
jcelect