As posted elsewhere, I just bought a new 19-9 ("Classic). Overall, the workmanship seems quite good. But I've notice two possible problems:

As I turn the windage adjustment screw on the rear sight, the blade moves left or right like it should. But if I get more than a couple of clicks away from dead center, the blade starts to tilt. The further to the side, the more tilt. It's not "slop", pushing down on the blade doesn't level it. Any easy solution?

Also, the DA and SA trigger pulls were quite smooth, but the heaviest I've ever felt on a new/stock gun. I installed the Wolf power rib hammer spring type 1 (allegedly, full strength) and a 15 lb rebound spring. That made the DA much lighter and the SA pull somewhat lighter, but also produced light strikes on 4 of 6 rds of factory Winchester and reloads with Winchester primers. Not acceptable.
Firing pin protrusion seems identical to my 66-6, which has the same Wolf hammer spring installed by S&W as part of a tuneup that gave it much lighter pulls.

Looking to make the pulls a little lighter but still have positive ignition, I've considered putting the Wolf spring back in and using a longer strain screw. Or staying with the stock hammer spring and backing out the strain screw 1/2 turn at a time until I get a misfire, then grinding the screw until the internal protrusion is halfway between the missfire point and the stock protrusion. (Buy a spare before doing this).

Better ideas are most welcome...

Go to federal priners

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

I've seen new guns with rear sight blades tilted as you describe. I believe they were damaged by rough handling during shipment with the blade banging against the case when dropped. The tilt in the blade can be corrected by a couple of sharp blows to the high side of the blade with a wooden mallet, effectively returning it to its original condition. Of course, hit it too hard and you may break the adjustment screw, but the worst case scenario is you need a new screw and blade. And don't blame me if it doesn't work!

You can use a #8-32 x 3/8" or 1/2" length socket head set screw and some blue or purple Loctite for an adjustable strain screw. You can use a trigger pull gage on the hammer to see how many ounces of force the mainspring is putting on the hammer and compare the gun that misfires to the one that doesn't. If you want to put in a regular strain screw with a head, you can find the mainspring tension that works by test firing the gun with the setscrew, then make a long strain screw shortened to the length that gives the same hammer tension as the setscrew setting. You can measure the length of the firing pins with a caliper. The shortest you want is .495. Adjust the strain screw in 1/8 turn increments. A little bit goes a long way. After you get the strain screw set, find the minimum rebound spring that works the way you like, and you're good to go.

In this way you can measure and quantify what is going on, rather than just guessing. To measure the hammer force, hook the trigger pull scale under the step on the hammer and gently let the hammer down till the hook rests on the frame. Pull the scale until the hook just lifts off the frame and take the reading. When you find the hammer tension that gives the desired results, record the hammer tension for that gun. Every gun will be a little different. If you have to remove the mainspring later, it's a simple matter to reset it to the recorded number.

If you wish, you can send me the rear sight and I will go through it and make sure it's right and send it back.

__________________
protocalldesign.com

JUST SHOOT IT!........It'll break in and get smoother.

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S&W Accumulator

How to measure hammer weight and adjust the strain screw length. From the Smith & Wesson Armorers manual.

Stu

Attached Images

	Hammer Weight Text.jpg (65.8 KB, 431 views)
	hammer weight.jpg (57.8 KB, 431 views)

When the gun is sighted in for you, is the blade level?

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Mark

^^^
Pretty close, but the misfire problem prevented me from getting precise.
The sight starts to tilt if I go more than two clicks to either side of center, I want more adjustment than that in case different grips or some other factor alter the windage.

It's interesting how many people mentioned changing the strain screw.
Today I called Wolf, the fellow I spoke with said that S&W is using shorter strain screws than in the past (not sure of dates), so misfires with their hammer spring are becoming more likely even with the type 1 ("full" power).

He said they make a .015" longer strain screw to fix the problem, but after hanging up I couldn't find it on their website. Will have to check further.

I've noticed these MUCH shorter strain screws on my 2 new 686+ revolvers. So short, that I briefly attempted to tighten them, thinking they were not fully seated, but they were.

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103

I ordered a round butt and square butt screw on fleabay, and compare them to mine when they show up.

Got the new strain screws today, fast shipping. Claimed to be factory and they look like it.

The new round butt screw is about .040 longer (I measured including the heads, but both heads are equal thickness or very close) than the one that came in the gun from S&W. I reinstalled the Wolf Power Rib (type 1, "full" power) hammer spring but used the new longer strain screw. Trigger pull is a bit heaver than with the Wolf hammer spring and short factory strain screw, but a whole bunch lighter than with the factory spring and factory screw.

My cheapo "hammer power measure" is a 2" piece of .30" wood dowel inserted down the barrel and "fired" with the gun pointing straight up. Both my factory-tuned 66 and the new 19 throw the dowel the same height with multiple tests.
Test firing is next.

Test fired today with .38 ammo:
35 rds Winchester 130 gr
35 rds my +P reloads which have Winchester primers
35 rds Speer +P 135 gr
and 6 rds Remington 125 gr Mangum loads- hot stuff!

No misfires, so it looks like this spring combo is probably ok.