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S&W Revolvers: 1980 to the Present All NON-PINNED Barrels, the L-Frames, and the New Era Revolvers


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Old 10-11-2020, 10:02 PM
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Default Bluing Repair

Looking at a revolver with a little ding in the bluing. It's a small ding. I'm thinking a little bottle with a touch-up brush would get it done but I'm not sure such a product even exists. What words of wisdom can you guys share with me?
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Old 10-11-2020, 10:17 PM
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lots of products available; check Brownell's. I've used Oxpho Blue. It works OK on small areas. Remove all grease with acetone, heat the spot with a hair dryer, then apply the product. Doesn't quite match the factory finish, but it looks better than bare metal.
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Old 10-11-2020, 10:20 PM
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I have tried several different touch up products.
They all seem to make the ding less noticeable.
But nothing will make it totally go away.
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Old 10-11-2020, 11:58 PM
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Default Ok I'm gonna get yelled at.

I had/have the exact same problem with my 29-2. One small rust spot behind the smith and wesson on the barrel ( 6.5 "). About the size of a pin head maybe a tad larger, I cleaned it out swabbed it out with alcohol, I heated the barrel with a hair dryer, and used G96 liquid gun blue, then a second coat, it wasn't the saw blue but close, Then I took a clear nail polish and dabbed it, let it dry then again, let it dry, next day I used the roughest paper towel I could find and buffed it until I was able to notice it but not to bbad and a lot better than when I started, I screwed up in the first place and I'm not trying to put a fix on to fool anyone, but its been 6 months now and there is no open wound, and I don't want to lose the original saw blue.
Just my story for what its worth, and I know solvents will remove this fix and I'll have to do a makeover.
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Old 10-12-2020, 05:10 AM
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IMHO the two best Bluing products are Birchwood Casey Perma-blue and Brownell's Oxpho Blue paste. Proper cleaning and heating up the metal with a hair dryer does help the end result.

That said, neither is really permanent and won't stand up like hot bluing - but better than nothing. If the bluing repair is in an area that doesn't get touched much by hands or holsters it will last longer.
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Old 10-12-2020, 06:42 AM
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With the exception of an old (probably discontinued) product, I have had the best results from the paste versions of the bluing formulas.

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Old 10-12-2020, 07:06 AM
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No cold blue is likely to be a perfect match, but for a tiny spot, Oxpho Blue paste, G96 paste or maybe the Birchwood Casey Perma Blue pen.
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Old 10-12-2020, 07:33 PM
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I clean the area with rubbing alcohol then heat it with a hair dryer. Use a small q tip to apply the cold bluing. Reapply it till you get the color you want them oil it.
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Old 10-16-2020, 10:44 PM
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If the bluing isn’t working put some bluing on with a q tip and use 0000 steelwool and lightly rub the bluing over the area.
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Old 10-16-2020, 11:05 PM
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A friend bought a model 29 using Gunbroker, it arrived at the LGS and it was immediately apparent a sharpie or a black marker had been used. The gun went back to the seller.
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Old 10-17-2020, 12:40 AM
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Default So it should

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Originally Posted by Oracle View Post
A friend bought a model 29 using Gunbroker, it arrived at the LGS and it was immediately apparent a sharpie or a black marker had been used. The gun went back to the seller.
With my post on blu repair I stated the repair was to stop any further damage from the hole in the factory blu, but in no way would it be sold with the tale being left out, good for your friend.
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Old 10-17-2020, 04:53 PM
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I buy the best condition I can afford. A condition of 99.99% is tops, a condition of 98.99% is the least I’ll buy but most are 99.99%.
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