Why is the Model 19 less expensive and more available? Does it have any faults..?? I've been trolling for a nice 586 and noticed the price and availability difference...(mostly on GunsAmerica)

It depends on the model 19, some do bring more money than a 586 or a 686. But the model 19 is more commonly known to have cracked forcing cones (due to a flat spot on the otherwise round forcing cone, making it thinner and weaker at the 6 o'clock position) and can suffer from a stretched topstrap. The L frame is beefed up a bit and those issues do not exist. There are way more model 19s out there, just because they have been made for so many more years than L frames. I would assume that has something to do with the price difference as well. Just my opinion.

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USAF AMMO

19 k frame- as mentioned it is the smallest frame, handier and more concealable / can have durability issues with a lot of hot magnum rounds-* this would not concern me as most people can’t afford/won’t shoot enough rounds through a revolver anyway

586 L frame-medium size frame Splitting the difference between the K and N Frames It is a popular choice

28 N frame - large heavy framed revolver the original size 357 magnum Big and heavy

The 19 is probably the least expensive because of its popularity as well.

Love this picture. It's always nice to see everything all laid out like that! As someone who has owned all the frames in the picture (except the X Frame), it's remarkable to see how big and beefy those revolvers are in comparison to the others!

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The K-frame Models 19 and 66 were in production far longer than the L-frame 586/686 and are still being produced, so there are far more of them available. As for price, you will pay more for a 19/66 that has the pinned barrel and recessed chambers due to desire by collectors.

The 586/686 are desired by those who like to shoot a steady diet of full power 357 Magnum ammo. The 586/686 was designed to overcome the issues with the 19/66, yet be smaller than then the N-frame Models 27 and 28. S&W was quite successful with the L-frame design.

The N-framed Model 27 and 28 command higher prices these days. The Model 27 has always been S&W's flagship 357 Magnum and as such, commands a hefty price tag. The Model 28 is a Model 27 with a far less expensive and fancy finish and very few options. The Model 28 cost a lot less than the Model 27, but has been out of production for a long time, therefore, the prices on Model 28's is going up.

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VCDL, GOA, NRA

I recommend this video for revolver newbies thinking about a used 19.

The new S&W Model 19 Classic ~ A S&W Armorer's Review - YouTube

For carry, with limited use of magnum loads, get a 19/66. For range use, more magnum loads, get a 586/686 or go bigger/stronger and get a 27/28.

They say NEVER use 125gr (or less) Magnum loads in a K-frame .357 due to the forcing cone issue.

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'Merica!

Thanks gents, that was very informative. Been wanting a 28 or 586 in blue for awhile....

The 28 sits high in the hand, cylinder is a bit big for the small charge holes and turns slower than the 586 when shooting fast. They balance different, a 4'' 586/686 is pure magic.

One thing often overlooked in the K/L/N discussion is weight. The L-frame is often described as being between the K and N-frame guns in weight, but that is not quite true in the real world. An older, six-chambered four-inch barreled L-frame actually weighs about the same as a four-inch Model 28. My old six-inch 586 actually weighed more than its six-inch N-framed contemporary cousins.

The reason of course, is the heavy under-lugged L-frame barrel, which makes the handling so different.

The L-frame lost a little weight in the back end with the change to round-butt frames and then the availability of a seventh chamber.

No right or wrong, here, just an excuse to play with all of them and see which you like best. As noted above, many people feel the four-inch 586/686 is "pure magic"!

Least I can do is show you one 586, yes?

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Come and take it!!

Experience tells me two things:

1) barrel length makes a difference in how any of these feels, shoots and works for you

2) all three frame sizes are fantastic but for different reasons so the answer for me is definitely to own all of them

The Armorer's View video throws light on the MIM and barrel shroud concerns. Think i'll give the new Model 19 a look...

A little more explanation now that I have a free moment.

For me, in my experience, K-frames are a fantastic fit, weight and balance for me, and if I'm shooting .38 Special (and I shoot a ton of it!) then a K-frame is the ultimate answer for me. At the same time, I find .357 Magnum from any/all/every K-frame to be uncomfortable. Sure I can do it, I shoot .44 Mag, .460 Mag and I have a whole helluva lot of 10mm from a Glock 29 under my belt. But K-frame and .357 isn't enjoyable to me, regardless of the discussion of how stout a 19/66 is built and can take the fury.

If I want a utility gun that is fantastic for all .357 Magnum and still thoroughly enjoyable for piles of .38 Special, the L-frame 686 is my choice. I find the 4-inch 686 to be about perfect for being the all-around "got it all covered" revolver, but I think the 6-inch barreled 686 is a better looking revolver. The 6-inch with the full lug barrel feels a little tiresome at arm's length after a box or three of ammo in one session.

If I'm shooting the big bombs in .357 (and I absolutely -LOVE- the big bombs in .357!) then the N-frame is so perfect that it feels like they designed it specifically for me. A 6-inch Model 27 is such a treat that everyone should try it. But the 6-inch Model 28-2 is such a mind blowing bargain in price that I feel like folks are plumb crazy if they don't own one. A 4-inch N-frame is fine, but the 6-inch is the one I love. And the 6-inch N-frame balances better for me than a 6-inch L-frame.

Summary:

K-frame .357 certainly can shoot .357 but mine literally never do because I just don't want to. But I pound truckloads of .38 through them and I have a bunch.

L-frame 686 is the "if I could only own one revolver" winner. It does so much so well and looks so good doing it.

N-frame 27 or 28: exactly what I want for launching .357 Magnum from a revolver, and I love .357 Magnum more than I can explain.

(full disclosure: the largest pile of .357 Magnum that I shoot gets spewed from my Coonan Classic)

My dealer had the m28-0/m28-2 for $695 in blue and the m27-2 for $795 blue or nickel. They all were in excellent condition.

I have both a 19-3 and a 19 Classic. I like the 19 classic more. Releasing the cylinder isn't as smooth, but like the armorer said it is much stronger. The blueing is not as flashy as the 19-3, but it is so more durable and rust resistant. I've taken the 19 Classic out with me hunting, hiking, and camping, and its sat in the jeep for a week in humid weather. Absolutely no rust. My biggest gripe is the skinny grips and low profile sites. But other than that, its one of my favorite Smiths.

See if you can find the opportunity to shoot both before you decide.
K frames tend to bruise my middle finger regardless of grip style while my 586 is comfortable to shoot all day.

I've had all these guns, but, of the three, a 28 is all I have now. I think it's the best of the bunch if you shoot a lot. I don't load or shoot .357 now, only .38s (factory equivalent standard pressure cast handloads), but the weight and bulk of a 28 helps to make a very forgiving revolver that hides some shooter deficiencies. I suppose the L-frame would come close in this regard.

I have all three and tend to favor the 27/28.

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Pine_Worker
Ex-LEO, NRA Life

My standard line....................

For an all around utility/duty/general purpose .357 magnum.... a 4" 686 can't be topped in my experience..

If I'm carrying all day (open or concealed) but really not expecting to "need" to shoot it then a 3" K frame .357 is easier...... make mine a 3" 65 or more likely my 3" 66. My Burb of the Burgh; +P .38s most likely...... out in Penn's woods 158gr soft point.

I do have two N-frame .357s a really nice 28 and a "nice enough to be proud of but not so nice it's a safe Queen" 4 inch 27 (recessed but not pinned)......that rarely leave the house.

As to price/availability the 19 has been around since 1954/55 (66 since 1970/71) and both were popular Law Enforcement and Civilian guns ; the L-frame only since 1980 just as LE was beginning the transitioning to autoloaders.

Also have a nifty little 60-10 3" micro 686 .357.

I positively adore the Model 19/66. It was the first S&W I ever owned. I currently have two - a 19 and a 66, both w/ 4 inch barrels. Outstanding revolvers. I have one 686 ... six inch barrel. I have two 28's ... one four and one six inch barrel. W/ the six inch barrel, it is a very good size/design. The four inch is less appealing. Either is outstanding for fast double-action shooting w/ .38 and especially .357 ammo. Day in and day out ... for my uses which do not typically include concealed carry, I consider the L-frame to be the most outstanding .357 magnum revolver ever designed. Sincerely. bruce.

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Thanks for this recommendation! I watched and it convinced me that the new S&W classics are superior to the old originals.

That X frame is big enough to need a forward observer.

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CSM, U S Army(Ret) 1963-1990

I watched the whole thing. That feller there has convinced me the “new” S&W revolvers are indeed fine and worth a second look. Up until now I have swore them off. Sad news for my wallet for sure, lol. Sometimes “learning” ain’t all it’s cracked up to be.

The k frame m19 vs the n frame m28? With a steady diet of magnum loads the m19 will hammer itself apart they say. Well tighten screws more often. I prefer N frames. The 586 has a two piece barrel? If I purchased a m19 I’ll shoot only low pressure 357 out of it. The m28/m27 gets my vote.

I don’t worry about the wallet, I could easily max out the plastic cards. I binge buy when I see what I want. Life is too short.

The L Frame S&W is possibly the greatest all around Revolver ever made when all things are considered.

It balances and handles perfectly.

It is accurate, available and affordable.

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Excellent points. I'd honestly have no qualms with purchasing several new S&W revolvers if it weren't for the particular "feature" they're almost all afflicted with. If S&W would just have an external-lock-only SKU (properly contoured frames would be a bonus) I'd probably be bankrupt by morning. Altamont makes nice grips, but they're a bit too thin and plasticky-looking compared to actual wood or older S&W grips for my tastes.

The 586/686 series is great, but the Model 19 wins in my book. I only shoot 357 very occasionally, and I prefer the look of partial underlugs. The K-frames are better balanced for me than comparable L-frames as a result of said partial underlugs. Though I'd love to pick up a Model 28 sometime if I could find one!

I like my k38/k22 revolvers but not crazy about the m19 until now the video cleared things up. If I ever get one I won’t hammer it. Good advice in the video about the newer s&w m19.

I think the current production 19/66 will take a lot more pounding from magnum loads than the older K-frame 357's. Current versions have a better crane lock and a full thickness barrel forcing cone.

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VCDL, GOA, NRA

The Model 27 was the "original" .357 Magnum, and as was earlier stated was/is S&W's flagship revolver with checkered barrel ribs and finishes to die for. But, they cost more back then than my Dad paid for his first couple of cars. The Model 28, the Highway Patrolman, was the same gun sans checkering and beautiful finishes, but just as usable and solid as the Model 27.

The Model 19 was the answer to law enforcements request for a lighter weight .357 for duty use, the N frame models in .357 get VERY heavy at the end of a 8-12 shift, and during the '60's thru the early '80's were the most popular revolver found on a cops belt. The problems started arising when liability started forcing agencies to make officers qualify with the same power range ammo that they carried instead of shooting .38 target loads for qualification and then carrying full-house mags on duty. The lightweight K frames were much harder to handle with mag loads and qualification scores dropped and the wear and tear on the guns increased dramatically.

The L frame was brought out to solve these problems and pretty much did with it's stronger, heavier frame and barrel the gun balances well and was still equipped with the smaller K frame grip that fits more shooters hand comfortably.

If I was still working the street and carrying a wheel gun it'd probably be my 681 L frame with my Model 640 as a back up, but I might still go with my old Model 19 as it's lighter and faster out of the holster.

BTW, I've got 2 Model 19-4's with more rounds of full-house 125gr .357 JHP's down the bore than I care to try and count. NO problems with either one of them. It's been my experience that the stainless models don't stand up as well as the carbon steel ones do.

I would and do own the K frame 19 & 66 and don't have any L frames at this particular time although have owned them. From everything I have read over the years the FC cracking on the K frame comes from heavy use with 125g 357 magnum rounds. (high velocity). I have never seen a cracked cone personally and I shoot 357 mag through mine regularly. (not the 125gr) If you really research the issue I think you will find that they weakness is real but requires heavy use and then its a small percentage that might crack.
I have nothing against L frame 686s. They are fine guns too but I prefer the "pinned barrel". Of course you need an early version of the model 66, a no dash and or a -1 and up to a -4 for the model 19. After that they are also unpinned barrels. I prefer the snub nose 66 for carry. Its a very nice package. The J frame 357 magnums exist too and I own a few but are hard to control with 357 magnums.
Note: If I were to buy one for hunting it would either be a 686 or a model 28.

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John 1:17
NRA Life Benefactor

Sort of where I stand as well. I have a K-frame 19-3 and a N-frame 28-2, enjoy shooting them both. I think the forcing cone issue has been overblown (pardon the pun) on the M19. I'm sure there are quite a few with cracked forcing cones out there, but overall I feel there are many thousands more that have stood the test of time. Nobody talks about "I've had this gun xxxxx years and never had a problem" nearly as much as "I cracked the forcing cone on my M19", so any report of such gets magnified to the point that everybody expects it to happen to them. I had a M19-2 and a M66-1 back when they were both newer guns (late '70s) and the 125 grain magnum load was my favorite meal for them both. I never heard anyone back then talk about forcing cone issues with the K-frame magnums, and there were many departments using them. I carried a M65 when working for DOC, and we were issued magnum ammo (albeit the 158 JHP's). Now I have a 19-3 and have fed it the same as my earlier ones, although it mostly gets downloaded magnums now, since I have a large frame .357 to give the heavy stuff to.

I've never considered an L-frame gun, simply because I hate the look of the underlug. They might as well add a vent rib and make it look like a Python. I prefer the older guns anyway, the P&R models that have been used since way before an L-frame ever existed. For woods use, I'd take a N-frame over the K frame, but for EDC the K frame because it's more easily concealed.