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S&W Revolvers: 1980 to the Present All NON-PINNED Barrels, the L-Frames, and the New Era Revolvers


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Old 11-20-2020, 06:10 PM
Dave686 Dave686 is offline
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Should the lock flag show? Should the lock flag show? Should the lock flag show? Should the lock flag show? Should the lock flag show?  
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Default Should the lock flag show?

This is my factory new Model 610-3. When I was cleaning and inspecting it after picking it up, I locked and unlocked the lock to make sure it was fully disengaged. The lock flag shows when unlocked. It may have been that way before me doing that and I didnít notice it. Should the flag be visible like this when unlocked?

This is only my second S&W with a lock, my other a 617, I donít think has this flag. At least I donít see one, I didnít get the key to try it.

Also, when locking the hammer back it has a very notable resistance just prior to the hammer locking back. None of my other S&W revolvers do that??


Last edited by Dave686; 11-20-2020 at 06:14 PM.
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Old 11-20-2020, 06:28 PM
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Should the lock flag show? Should the lock flag show? Should the lock flag show? Should the lock flag show? Should the lock flag show?  
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None of my lock flags on my 686's stand proud of the surface. They are slightly recessed.
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Old 11-20-2020, 06:46 PM
ggibson511960 ggibson511960 is offline
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Should the lock flag show? Should the lock flag show? Should the lock flag show? Should the lock flag show?  
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S&W will send you a key without charge. They probably have a great pile of them sent back from displeased purchasers.
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Old 11-20-2020, 07:19 PM
Scott_HM1000X Scott_HM1000X is offline
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Should the lock flag show? Should the lock flag show? Should the lock flag show? Should the lock flag show? Should the lock flag show?  
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My 686-6 does not protrude when unlocked, it’s basically flush or slightly below flush.
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Old 11-20-2020, 07:34 PM
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Should the lock flag show? Should the lock flag show? Should the lock flag show? Should the lock flag show? Should the lock flag show?  
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None of mine show. But, thats because they are all in a plastic sack in the bottom of my gun safe.
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Old 11-20-2020, 07:46 PM
Seamus O'Caiside Seamus O'Caiside is online now
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Should the lock flag show? Should the lock flag show? Should the lock flag show? Should the lock flag show? Should the lock flag show?  
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My two S&W's that have locks do not show like that, nor do they hang up when cocking. It sounds like yours is not fully un-locking. Try putting just a little bit more force on the key when unlocking. Not enough force to break the key!

The locks don't bother me a bit. Just forget they are there. It is a non-issue. They don't do a bit of harm, even though they are (to use my late F-I-L's expression) they are as useless as t..'s on a boar hog.
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Old 11-20-2020, 08:49 PM
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Should the lock flag show? Should the lock flag show? Should the lock flag show? Should the lock flag show? Should the lock flag show?  
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My 629 -6 is like that. Also, when the cylinder is released and the latch locked forward with mild pressure on the latch aft, the lock flag pops up a little.

Not concerned about it
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Old 11-20-2020, 08:54 PM
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Should the lock flag show? Should the lock flag show? Should the lock flag show? Should the lock flag show? Should the lock flag show?  
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Because the N frame is larger, SW was able to retain the traditional curve in that area. The flag only protrudes a tiny amount. My 629 does exactly what yours does, except it shoots manlier 44 magnums

On L and smaller frames the curve is much less than the pre-lock. It was done to accommodate the IL.
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Old 11-20-2020, 10:05 PM
bipe215 bipe215 is offline
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Should the lock flag show? Should the lock flag show? Should the lock flag show? Should the lock flag show? Should the lock flag show?  
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My R8 did that when new. I removed all my flags.
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Old 11-20-2020, 10:52 PM
Seadragon Seadragon is offline
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Should the lock flag show? Should the lock flag show? Should the lock flag show? Should the lock flag show? Should the lock flag show?  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave686 View Post
Also, when locking the hammer back it has a very notable resistance just prior to the hammer locking back. None of my other S&W revolvers do that?
I have seen this on new S&W's as well. I believe this is most likely caused by tight tolerances between the ratchets at the rear of the cylinder, the hand and the vertical slot in the frame the hand moves in. If you swing the cylinder out you can see the hand at the bottom of its slot in the frame. As you cock the hammer, the hand moves up in this slot pushing on the ratchet at the rear of the cylinder, thus turning the cylinder. The cylinder will rotate until the bolt locks the next chamber in-line with the barrel. At that point (assuming your timing is correct) the hammer is not yet locked back and the hand is not yet at the top of its slot in the frame. As you continue to pull the hammer back to lock it in place, the hand will move to the top of the slot in the frame, but because the cylinder will not rotate further, the hand is forced slightly to the side of the ratchet on the cylinder, and if the clearance in the slot is not sufficient, the hand is pinched between the ratchet and the frame. This is the point where you are feeling resistance just prior to the hammer locking back. The good news is this condition is self correcting as the ratchet/hand/frame interface will wear with use providing the needed clearance and reducing the resistance you feel when cocking. Of course you can speed this up with a file but you can screw up your timing if you don't know what you are doing. If you simply work the action repeatedly while enjoying a ballgame on TV I think you will see improvement after a few days with no risk of damage to your 610. Good luck!

Last edited by Seadragon; 11-20-2020 at 10:55 PM.
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