Model 17 frame markings?

[oink]

I have a model 17-4 I bought new sometime in the 80s. It did have accuracy issues and was sent back to the factory. I believe they replaced the barrel. There are a number of marks or numbers on the grip frame. I realize most are assembly marks that mean nothing except to the factory at the time. Anyone know what other information might be represented? Thanks. SN AFB06XX:

[Hondo44]

Nothing out of the ordinary, most are inspector code stamps to identify the inspectors.

The # on the left side or possibly the other # on the right grip frame is an assembly # that may match the # on the yoke when open or not match anything.

ASSEMBLY (factory work) #s:

These multi-digit numbers of 3 to 5 digits, are on the yoke at the hinge, in the ‘yoke cut’ on frame opposite the yoke near the hinge (usually accompanied with the inspector’s letter or # code stamp of approval, but not always), and inside of the side plate, for the pre war and early post war period thru ~early 1958.

After 1957 model #s were assigned and stamped on the frame in the yoke cut. The serial # was soon after added in the ‘yoke cut’ as well and the assembly # moved to the left side of the grip frame parallel to the butt. Once the gun is shipped, the only use for the assembly # is to confirm the three parts it's stamped on, are original. These are still in use to this day in some way.

More currently beginning in the 1980s we see non-matching multi-digit numbers parallel to the butt left side, right side, or both and inside the side plate. “They are just assembly numbers. They are not important numbers in my opinion.” Roy Jinks

Are there any stamps on the flat, bottom side of barrel?

[oink]

Thanks.

Nothing that indicates the work done on it's trip home, like a barrel change?

There are no marks on the underside of the barrel.

[Hondo44]

No nothing. But likely done too late to have and stampings:

REFINISH/REWORK DATES AND STAMPINGS:
Sometime after 1910 a return to the factory rework date could be 3 or 4 digits depending on the actual date (much later sometimes 5 or 6) placed on left side of grip frame on the 'toe' stamped vertically or horizontally, and will not match any other stamped #s on the gun. Ex: 3 48 for March 1948, 10 2 57 for Oct 2, 1957, etc.

STAR USAGE:
On the bottom of the butt, or forestrap following serial #, or left side of grip frame indicates a factory rework; began ~ 1912, declined and became sporadic in the early 1960s before the decline of date stamps per Roy.
Five stars; one each on left grip frame, barrel shroud, behind extractor star, yoke rear face, and inside sideplate or less are rare; so many stamped locations are not unheard of, but seldom seen!

Usually present with rework dates are letters in a rectangle or diamond, B (blue), N (nickel), or S (standard/blue) with an R (for refinish), on 'heel' of left side of grip frame. There might also be marks in diamonds like <S> (silver), <G> (gold), or just a P in a circle (for plated including nickel). In the 1960s period, an S<> on grip frame and under barrel with a rework date meant refinish, standard (blue). Which stamping was used depended on the time frame and service technician working on the gun. An RE (refinish) in a circle at the heel on left side of grip frame has also been observed as one of the last stampings used.

Refinish and/or date stamp usage, are generally accepted to have declined in the 1970s, and stars non-existent, although that's when many 5 or 6 digit dates, if stamped, have been observed, sporadic use after that, and was eventually eliminated altogether not too long after. Reportedly no date stamps have been observed since ~1983.

[oink]

Thanks for the info.

In certain light the barrel is a different blue than the frame. The barrel can take on a bit of an eggplant hue.

[Hondo44]

Originally Posted by oink

Thanks for the info.

In certain light the barrel is a different blue than the frame. The barrel can take on a bit of an eggplant hue.

Now that you say that, the barrel's been re-blued. But not by the factory.

The purplish hue is a dead giveaway of a part not left in the bluing tanks long enough or not done at the right temperature. get the barrel reblued at a good shop, it won't cost much.

[oink]

Originally Posted by Hondo44

Now that you say that, the barrel's been re-blued. But not by the factory.

The purplish hue is a dead giveaway of a part not left in the bluing tanks long enough or not done at the right temperature. get the barrel reblued at a good shop, it won't cost much.

It would have been the factory. I'm the original and only owner. The only place it's ever been out of my possession is to the factory.

In most light you can't notice the different color and it doesn't bother me enough to address it. There was nothing wrong with the finish when I sent it in. It was just horribly inconsistent accuracy wise. It shot good when it came back but the finish on the barrel didn't quite match the rest.

The polish on the returned barrel is actually better than on the frame which always looked like it was a bit rushed and definitely not a high polish.

I think I heard back when that S&W was having labor problems when the gun was originally made.

[Hondo44]

Originally Posted by oink

It would have been the factory. I'm the original and only owner. The only place it's ever been out of my possession is to the factory.

In most light you can't notice the different color and it doesn't bother me enough to address it. There was nothing wrong with the finish when I sent it in. It was just horribly inconsistent accuracy wise. It shot good when it came back but the finish on the barrel didn't quite match the rest.

The polish on the returned barrel is actually better than on the frame which always looked like it was a bit rushed and definitely not a high polish.

I think I heard back when that S&W was having labor problems when the gun was originally made.

Hmmm, I guess the factory has off days in the bluing dept as well.

The unmatching barrel can be very frustrating, I know. It would bug me.

My Mod 18-4 from 1982 is very similar vintage as yours. I couldn't believe how nice the original factory polish and finish is on it:



A current factory refinish is the best finish at the best value you can get. You might check the price at S&W.