I bought a 66-1 a few months ago and chucked it in the safe. I was going through the safe the other day and realized I never "fixed" it. Someone decided they wanted a SS "nickel finish". I don't I know how to polish a SS revolver to look like nickel but how do I reverse the process without having to do a bead blast on it? Or is that they only way?

__________________
John 1:17
NRA Life Benefactor

Try a Scotch Brite pad. I have used this to rough up smooth areas on S&W semiautos.

__________________
Made it, Ma! Top of the world!

Use a GRAY scotch bright pad the green ones are too abrasive you can order them on ebay amazon ect post before and after photos ‼️‼️

When you use a scotch brite pad on your gun you MUST have another SS gun to compare to! The factory buffing changes direction on different places on the gun especially around the trigger guard! The process works well as I have "cleaned up" many light scratches and nicks in SS guns.
jcelect

Gray Scotchbrite pads are a available at any auto parts and most hardware stores. Around $1.
As Jselect says maintaining the correct directional pattern is imperative.
IIRC its front to back on the sides of the top strap, curved around the recoil shield the straight towards the muzzle. The cylinder flutes are front to back but the cylinder itself is around the circumference. The barrel is front to back. The bottom of the frame and trigger guard are side to side. Back strap bottom to top. I'mgoing on memory so please check before you start.
The front to back could be back to front depending on your preference.
I hope they didn’t polish the matte finish on the top of the barrel and topstrap.
I bought a Mod 64 that had some horrible scratches on the topstrap.
After a lot of hand wringing I took a 1” strip of 120 grit sandpaper and working in a shoe shine motion sanded out the scratches. Then sanded into the factory finish to blend it in using single strokes to keep all the sand scratches going in the same direction. The 120 worked out great for duplicating the matte finish. Be sure to sand perpendicular to the bore axis.
Said 64 is now one of my favorites.

Attached Images

	6D5E2F3A-E768-4411-993D-195F147D2212.jpg (99.2 KB, 366 views)
	15BEFA05-3CB3-46B7-BF87-EA4B1A20A717.jpg (30.3 KB, 321 views)

__________________
I told you not to use Lifebuoy

Grey ScotchBrite pads? I found mine at Home Depot when I needed to blend in some “whoopsies” on my Model 639... the results were gratifying.

Froggie

The suggestions offered are right on. This Model 67 looked like a car bumper when I bought it a few years ago.

Ed

Attached Images

	IMG_0008.jpg (99.6 KB, 361 views)
	IMG_0009.jpg (105.5 KB, 316 views)

One other tip when using Sotchbrite pads, it helps to add a drop or two of a good gun oil, like Break Free CLP. Kind of like wet sanding. And get an old rag and wipe off the surface of the gun pretty frequently to check your progress.
Also it takes a very light touch, less than you might think. I used a gray pad and followed up with a white one to take some mars out of the finish of a couple of stainless guns. The gray is fairly aggressive, hence my suggestion for a light touch until you get a feel for what it takes.

I used to work at a place that had vibratory finish machines,,
and, over the years, I have probably seen hundreds of tons of parts finished that way,,

The S&W factory vibratory finishes the "normal" stainless steel gun.

It only makes sense, that is the cheapest way to finish, and it deburrs at the same time.
AND, it looks nice,,
the only problem,, it is pretty difficult to duplicate, at home,,,

The barrel and frame look very different, or is it the photo angle?

Must be the angle. I didn’t Scotchbrite that one. I don’t know why I posted that pic., other than I just like the gun. When I bought it the mechanics and finish were great other than the gouges on the top. I initially was going to bead blast it. The second pic is the same gun showing the “fixed” matte top strap.

__________________
I told you not to use Lifebuoy

What a great thread for future reference. While I do not have a SS revolver or pistol that needs this attention 5will get you 10 there will be one in my future. Makes being a forum member worthwhile just for the knowledge members are willing to share.

__________________
SWCA#2288
SWHF#407

So, any thoughts on un-beadblasting a stainless Smith?

Probably sanding. Id l’d maybe start with 220 or even 320 and see how it cuts. If needed you could drop to 150. I think your better off starting finer than necessary and going from there. It depends what is “under” the blasting. Be sure to have a rigid backer for your sandpaper and have the paper pulled tight, to keep the edges sharp and dishing the holes.
I’d consider long and hard before trying this.
I’m no expert and there's so many different angles and radius’s (radaii?) I’m afraid I’d mess it up.

__________________
I told you not to use Lifebuoy

That's my take on things as well, just curious to hear any success stories...

I re-did my 66-1 that had some pitting on the left side of the frame at that the edge of the Goodyears it was wearing when I bought it. I thought it was just filthy and just gave it a quick once over. When I got it home and cleaned it it up I almost cried.
I kept it as found for a couple months until one day I un-puckered my sphincter enough to take sandpaper to it.
It turned out well, I think.
I’ll have to post a pic when I get it out of my safe.
It amazed me how soft the stainless is.
I also have a 2-1/2” 686 with a “nick” on the front side of the frame. I looks like a frame wrench left a mark.
I’d considered having at it with some needle files but have pretty much decided to keep it as is.
Who knows some day I might get a bug up my butt and try and fix it.

__________________
I told you not to use Lifebuoy

A chemical process of surface passavation was used on many stainless S&W revolvers. I don’t recall exactly when S&W started using it, maybe since the 80’s?

If the finish looks a little hazy, it’s been treated. It’s basically a treatment to remove iron or other materials in the surface to prevent rust.

I’m not sure if they use nitric acid or citric acid, or some other chemicals. I think I’ve heard of it called a pickled finish.

My formerly pitted Mod 66-1

Attached Images

8F258692-B913-495E-83E8-4397DDAA8D5E.jpg (99.1 KB, 101 views)

__________________
I told you not to use Lifebuoy

Until I started joining some of the many S&W oriented FB pages, I had no idea how popular polishing SS handguns was.
These guys are almost in competition to turn their SS hardware into gleaming chrome.

- I just can't understand it.
To me, that ranks right up there with deciding to gold-plate various parts, like the trigger/hammer/cylinder release versions we've seen.
Makes me a little nauseous......

__________________
Ret'd LEO
SWCA #2275

Me too...Gosh, who would do an awful thing like that......Ben

Attached Images

IMG_1043.jpg (109.7 KB, 101 views)

I've used knotted wire wheels to give stainless a more matted finish.
They aren't that expensive and get into the nooks and crannies better then a pad.

__________________
SWHF #595

I’ve used a cone shaped polishing pad with some jewelers rouge to polish up my wife’s nickel 36. It came out great. I was thinking I could use that with a different compound on my 686.

Since I started all this I thought I should take the time to show you all what I am working with.
66 no dash and a 66-1




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

__________________
John 1:17
NRA Life Benefactor

The proper way to do it is to fully disassemble the gun, then use a fine abrasive wheel on a polishing motor.

Someone polished the 66-1 I picked last year, I knew I really didn't want to try to tame the shine myself so I sent it to S & W for their action package and they did a very nice glass bead finish on it along with smoothing up the action.

Attached Images

IMG_0092(1).jpg (154.8 KB, 63 views)