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S&W Revolvers: 1980 to the Present All NON-PINNED Barrels, the L-Frames, and the New Era Revolvers


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Old 11-28-2020, 08:36 PM
Mr Wonderful Mr Wonderful is offline
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Any of you guys Cerakote your revolvers? Any of you guys Cerakote your revolvers? Any of you guys Cerakote your revolvers? Any of you guys Cerakote your revolvers? Any of you guys Cerakote your revolvers?  
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Default Any of you guys Cerakote your revolvers?

I did it to a Taurus model 65. The finish is great, it's tough and everything that's advertised, but that .0005 -.001 coat thickness really changed the gun's measured tolerances.


At first/after Cerakoting the gun had zero cylinder to barrel clearance, then after scraping off the Cerakote off the forcing cone, under the star/ratchet and off the frame where the cartridge slams (I can't think of what it's called), I got it to a .005" gap, but with zero endshake.
The gun started with a .007" or .008" cylinder to barrel gap, and around .002" to .003" endshake.
It now has no/0.00 endshake and a .005" cylinder to barrel gap.


My point in making this thread is that the thin coat of Cerakote, even applied perfectly will result in some spec difference of your revolver. This is after me scraping the Cerakote off of everything I know that would affect such tolerances.


If you want pictures of the Taurus I Cerakoted, let me know and I'll post them. The finish really is flawlessly perfect. But Cerakote is not so thin that it doesn't effect the tolerances of revolver -it does.

Last edited by Mr Wonderful; 11-28-2020 at 08:40 PM.
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Old 11-28-2020, 08:40 PM
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I had an beat up j frame at one point. I took it to see about getting cerakoted at a shop. They advised me not to due to the tolerances. I would definitely like to see how yours turned out. Next time you do it make a step by step or youtube video.

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Old 11-28-2020, 08:42 PM
Mr Wonderful Mr Wonderful is offline
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Any of you guys Cerakote your revolvers? Any of you guys Cerakote your revolvers? Any of you guys Cerakote your revolvers? Any of you guys Cerakote your revolvers? Any of you guys Cerakote your revolvers?  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by studenygreg View Post
I had an beat up j frame at one point. I took it to see about getting cerakoted at a shop. They advised me not to due to the tolerances. I would definitely like to see how yours turned out. Next time you do it make a step by step or youtube video.

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I did just as Cerakote tells to here. https://images.nicindustries.com/cer...195.1550012333


I'll post some pictures directly.
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Old 11-28-2020, 08:46 PM
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I'd like to hear more as I have a Mk IV Webley whose "War Time Finish" has gone way beyond patina. A black Ceracote would be very close tot he black baked on finish originally used.
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Old 11-28-2020, 08:46 PM
Mr Wonderful Mr Wonderful is offline
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Old 11-28-2020, 08:49 PM
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Those are the pictures above. Pay no attention to the other gun/Eaa Windicator with polished barrel. It's the other gun/ Taurus 65 that I Cerakoted.
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Old 11-28-2020, 08:58 PM
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Looks good. Reminds me of the color they use on some of the ruger wranglers. Have you shot it yet? How much? How is it holding up?

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Old 11-28-2020, 09:00 PM
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I’ve posted this one before. H-234 Sniper Grey over a bead blast to correct horrific neglect some time in its past life. No noticeable difference in function before/after (after replacing the missing parts). Still shoots like all my other Combat Masterpieces. I don’t see myself ever getting another one in that condition, but if I did, I wouldn’t hesitate to Cerakote it.
Good shootin’,
Doug
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Old 11-28-2020, 09:08 PM
Mr Wonderful Mr Wonderful is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by studenygreg View Post
Looks good. Reminds me of the color they use on some of the ruger wranglers. Have you shot it yet? How much? How is it holding up?

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I did shoot it, but only after scraping off the Cerakote off the forcing cone, under the star/ratchet and off the back of the frame where the cartridges slam. The gun would not have have shot or rotated the cylinder before I did that scraping off the cerakote in those places.

It shoots good. I just wanted to people to know that the Cerakote will change specs, and if you don't mask off all the areas that are spec dependenant, the gun will change. \


I hadn't read any warning of these things before me Cerakoting my revolver, and wanted you guys to know.

Last edited by Mr Wonderful; 11-28-2020 at 09:30 PM.
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Old 11-28-2020, 09:28 PM
Mr Wonderful Mr Wonderful is offline
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Any of you guys Cerakote your revolvers? Any of you guys Cerakote your revolvers? Any of you guys Cerakote your revolvers? Any of you guys Cerakote your revolvers? Any of you guys Cerakote your revolvers?  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CapnB View Post
I’ve posted this one before. H-234 Sniper Grey over a bead blast to correct horrific neglect some time in its past life. No noticeable difference in function before/after (after replacing the missing parts). Still shoots like all my other Combat Masterpieces. I don’t see myself ever getting another one in that condition, but if I did, I wouldn’t hesitate to Cerakote it.
Good shootin’,
Doug
Looks good, Doug.
Glad you didn't have any measurable changes in tolerances. I can't imagine anything I did wrong, but maybe I did. I hadn't read of any tolerances changes before I blasted and redid mine. I'm confident I didn't put too much/too thick of a coat, because I followed all of the instructions of the Cerakote "Training Manual". Dunno, but glad you didn't have such issues.

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Old 11-28-2020, 09:47 PM
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I obtained a badly neglected model 10-7 snub that had, at most, 20% of the original bluing left on it and most surfaces had some pitting that had set in. The cerakoting that I had done gave a nice protective coating and did nothing to adversely affect the functioning of the revolver. I'm pretty sure my gun's forcing cone area was left alone.
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Old 11-28-2020, 10:01 PM
Mr Wonderful Mr Wonderful is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjm6120 View Post
I obtained a badly neglected model 10-7 snub that had, at most, 20% of the original bluing left on it and most surfaces had some pitting that had set in. The cerakoting that I had done gave a nice protective coating and did nothing to adversely affect the functioning of the revolver. I'm pretty sure my gun's forcing cone area was left alone.
Did you you do measuring of tolerances before and after? A Cerokote advertised .0005 to .001 thickness would certainly make a difference.
I didn't consider it before Cerakoting my own revolver, but a .0005 TO .001" (Cerakote's advertised) coat thickness difference on the cylinder, on the forcing cone, under the ratchet star and at the frame where the cartridges slam will absolutely make a difference in measurable specs.


Edit
Never mind my post above. You had your Cerakoting done by someone else, and you have no idea what the coater had to do to make your revolver function normally. . My post is more directed to DIY'S, where there's no info of what a Cerakote will do a revolver specs.

Last edited by Mr Wonderful; 11-29-2020 at 04:15 AM.
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Old 11-28-2020, 10:40 PM
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If you are going to do it, make sure the people doing the work understand revolvers and the tight tolerances. They are used to working on semi autos which most, from a tolerance stand point are rattle traps compared to a revolver.
I had a friend who was dating a lady who wanted a pink S&W. We took a model 10 and took it to a shop. I warned the shop not to get any cerakote in the action under the grips, on the forcing cone or ejector rod.
When I went to pick it up they had ignored my instructions and I could not even get the gun back together.
I ended up selling it to a forum member who was willing to put the time into it that I was not. From my view point the gun was ruined.
If the member who ended up with it sees this, I hope they post a pic of the resurrected gun.

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Old 11-28-2020, 10:52 PM
Mr Wonderful Mr Wonderful is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chukar60 View Post
If you are going to do it, make sure the people doing the work understand revolvers and the tight tolerances. They are used to working on semi autos which most, from a tolerance stand point are rattle traps compared to a revolver.
I had a friend who was dating a lady who wanted a pink S&W. We took a model 10 and took it to a shop. I warned the shop not to get any cerakote in the action under the grips, on the forcing cone or ejector rod.
When I went to pick it up they had ignored my instructions and I could not even get the gun back together.
I ended up selling it to a forum member who was willing to put the time into it that I was not. From my view point the gun was ruined.
If the member who ended up with it sees this, I hope they post a pic of the resurrected gun.
Exactly, man.
If you have a professional do your gun and had no problems, then good, but this message is to do it your selfer -if you just blast your revolver and Cerakote to the manufacture instructions, you might/likely will have some changes in specs like barrel to cylinder gap, head space and endshake.

Last edited by Mr Wonderful; 11-29-2020 at 04:16 AM.
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Old 11-28-2020, 11:43 PM
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I would not Cerakote any revolver for the reasons stated above.
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Old 11-29-2020, 12:06 AM
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I had BLACKNITRIDE finish applied to the S&W 10-7. When I got it back I could not get the cylinder to rotate on the barrel of the yoke or close the gun.
I worked for 2 hours removing finish from the barrel of the yoke, the cylinder end of the barrel and a little from the boss that the center pin extends through. The finish is supposed to be resistant to salts and supposed the have some self lubrication qualities.
I could not find any problems when I reinstalled the internal parts.
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Old 11-29-2020, 12:48 AM
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I bought this Model 15 already Cerakoted a while back at a pretty good price. I'm not really a fan of painted finishes on any quality gun, but I must admit that I don't find it to be so offensive now that I've had a chance to really look it over close-up. Everything functions as it should, so it appears that the finish was applied with the care you guys talked about. Good shooter, too.
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Old 11-29-2020, 10:03 AM
Steve912 Steve912 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Wonderful View Post
I just wanted to people to know that the Cerakote will change specs, and if you don't mask off all the areas that are spec dependenant, the gun will change. \


I hadn't read any warning of these things before me Cerakoting my revolver, and wanted you guys to know.
For sure. I did some rattle-can epoxy on rails of a beat-up
4013TSW, and it tightened it right up (but the masking
took an hour, at least! ).

How'd you do edges of sideplate/mating edges of frame--
light dusting, masked, sprayed & sanded to fit?

Guessing you left internal frame areas and pieces,
unsprayed?
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Old 11-29-2020, 11:45 AM
ShadyDrifter ShadyDrifter is offline
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I think I'm gonna send a couple guns to birdsong for the black T finish
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Old 11-29-2020, 12:24 PM
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As Mr. Wonderful notes, dimensions are gonna change with applied coatings. Modernity and wheel guns sometimes mesh, sometimes don’t.
I have used the Brownells rattle-can epoxy for a K and J Frame that had terrible finish issues. They look marginally better to me, but the rationale is more protection for the metal.

I was careful masking but still needed to clean up a few places - forcing cones are easy and the ejector rod needed some touch up. Thank goodness that I didn’t need to clean up the star or anything in the lock work. That could be a serious chore and potentially undermine the part’s integrity.

To my eye, the ceramic or epoxy coatings don’t look “right” on most wheelguns. The two that I did really obscure the S&W roll marks, which bother me a lot more in retrospect than I would have anticipated. The place where it got to me the most is the cylinder turnline. The paint wear from the hand looks a bit jagged and uneven versus a clear line on a traditional blue.

However, I love the retro military use - I have a late WWII wartime Webley production, which is a mighty workmanlike finish. A STEN on Inglis High Power paint finish would look great to mine eyes, as would a classic M&P or Colt Commando. That said, I had Diamond-like-Carbon coating on a Kahr PM9... which I thought looked great and was useful when cleaning up. Those modern coatings are great.
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Old 11-29-2020, 12:33 PM
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Groo here
Most any spray or coated finish will add "stuff" including Nickle....
Only a "Blue" or "rust" or "heat treated" finish will be the same as it goes into the steel.
When having a gun built I always select a finish the smith is experienced
with rather than be "the first"
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Old 11-30-2020, 02:50 AM
Mr Wonderful Mr Wonderful is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve912 View Post
For sure. I did some rattle-can epoxy on rails of a beat-up
4013TSW, and it tightened it right up (but the masking
took an hour, at least! ).

How'd you do edges of sideplate/mating edges of frame--
light dusting, masked, sprayed & sanded to fit?

Guessing you left internal frame areas and pieces,
unsprayed?
I tried to only lightly mist spray the sides/fitted area of the side plate, but they ended being well coated. Thankfully it worked out well for the sideplate.


As for the internal parts, I had the gun completely stripped down/no internal parts and didn't spray them. The inside of the gun (under sideplate, where the internals go) did get some spray, but it didn't cause any problems with fit or function.


The only place that changed was the cylinder stuff, but it makes sense now that it would.. even a .0005" thickness in several places adds up.

Last edited by Mr Wonderful; 11-30-2020 at 02:52 AM.
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Old 11-30-2020, 03:00 AM
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Quote:
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To my eye, the ceramic or epoxy coatings don’t look “right” on most wheelguns.
I agree. The black nitrate or whatever it's called that came on the Taurus 65 had some problems. It was coming off at the crane joint, and made an ugly turn line fast, like within 100 rounds. It just didn't seem like a durable finish and it's a cheap $300 Taurus so I just tried out the Cerakote. The finish seems to be tougher than most any coatings, even factory coatings.
I really like the way it turned out, but I won't be Cerakoting any of of my S&Ws or Rugers.

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Old 11-30-2020, 03:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toyman View Post
I had BLACKNITRIDE finish applied to the S&W 10-7. When I got it back I could not get the cylinder to rotate on the barrel of the yoke or close the gun.
I worked for 2 hours removing finish from the barrel of the yoke, the cylinder end of the barrel and a little from the boss that the center pin extends through. The finish is supposed to be resistant to salts and supposed the have some self lubrication qualities.
I could not find any problems when I reinstalled the internal parts.
Who did the black nitride? I have a 10-6 packaged up and ready to ship for a black nitride finish.
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Old 11-30-2020, 12:30 PM
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Brandon Polito

Operations Manager

Phone: 623-322-8150

6051 N. 56th Ave Glendale, AZ 85301

Email: [email protected]

Website: [www.blacknitride.com]www.blacknitride.com

Remember that you have to totally disassemble your gun and reassemble yourself. They do not want any springs as the process damages them.
I would contact them before sending your gun for price and shipping instructions
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Old 11-30-2020, 01:20 PM
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Here’s the website,
Cerakote.com - Global Leader in Thin-Film Ceramic Coatings | Cerakote
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Old 11-30-2020, 01:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toyman View Post
Brandon Polito

Operations Manager

Phone: 623-322-8150

6051 N. 56th Ave Glendale, AZ 85301

Email: [email protected]

Website: [www.blacknitride.com]www.blacknitride.com

Remember that you have to totally disassemble your gun and reassemble yourself. They do not want any springs as the process damages them.
I would contact them before sending your gun for price and shipping instructions
Thanks. That's who I selected.
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Old 11-30-2020, 01:45 PM
Mike, SC Hunter Mike, SC Hunter is online now
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Never. On any of mine.
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Old 11-30-2020, 03:32 PM
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It is important for the barrel / cylinder gap to be measured and even set on all six chambers. It is common for the b/c gap to be uneven. I have a Ruger Vaquero that new out of the box had a .003” gap on one side and a .001” on the other. This tight of gap could easily caused problems with nickel or Ceracoat finish.

I like a b/c of .006” - .008” as I shoot mostly lead bullets and allow for lead buildup on the front of the cylinder. For best results before plating / Ceracoating the face of the cylinder should be trued on a lathe and the rear of the barrel be cut square for a uniform gap.

This need for quality control is likely the reason the cylinder on the Ruger Wranglers are left blued.
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  #30  
Old 12-04-2020, 08:29 PM
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Any of you guys Cerakote your revolvers? Any of you guys Cerakote your revolvers? Any of you guys Cerakote your revolvers? Any of you guys Cerakote your revolvers? Any of you guys Cerakote your revolvers?  
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Default My GP100

Here's before and after with my Ruger GP100.
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Old 12-04-2020, 11:26 PM
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Any of you guys Cerakote your revolvers? Any of you guys Cerakote your revolvers? Any of you guys Cerakote your revolvers? Any of you guys Cerakote your revolvers? Any of you guys Cerakote your revolvers?  
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I can see doing it to a real beater. I just dropped off 2 Semi auto beaters a old CZ 75 full pistol and a Beretta 81 slide. 1st time having any kind of coating done. I have always been a "purists" when it comes to finishes because I always have my collector/ resale value hat on But when you have a gun that's already past any of that I see no reason not to experiment a bit. I have a one old revolver I would like to have done.. one I call the "Oswald Gun". It's a British lend -lease 38 SW that was chopped and reamed for 38 special in the 1960s. They are worth maybe $100. But it shoots ok so why not play a bit? On a newer revolver that really relates to this section of the forum I don't think I would have one Cerakoted. My local shop charges $200 for a semi auto both slide and frame. Some of their custom work on rifles costs over $650! I am not sure they do revolvers. I'll ask next time I am there. As far as a DIY project.. I would just make a mess of it.
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Old 12-06-2020, 09:47 AM
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Any of you guys Cerakote your revolvers? Any of you guys Cerakote your revolvers? Any of you guys Cerakote your revolvers? Any of you guys Cerakote your revolvers? Any of you guys Cerakote your revolvers?  
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Default S&W 36 ceracoated

To share my only experience with ceracoating : I bought (as a matter of fact was rather 'given') a cosmetically worn 36 by a Dutch gun store, for the equivalent of 45 $, when buying another S&W used gun from him. I bought quite often guns from him, and he sold it to me as in the Netherlands, shooting a 2" revolver is not allowed for 'sportive' practice, while in Belgium it is - so it was only collecting dust he said.

It was my very first J-Frame, so I 'bought' it with a lot of enthusiasm. The gun worked out to be mechanically perfect, but the looks . On a Belgian forum we have, one of the members is a gunsmith, who works really well, and has someone ceracoating guns for him. Talking to him, he offered me to have the 36 ceracoated (at cost - less than 100 $) when doing other more 'tacticool' guns, but told me I would not have the choice of color, has it would be done 'with the rest'.

So I agreed, took the S&W 36 completely apart, and gave him the frame with barrel, sideplate, cylinder, and a handful of external small pieces, but nothing of the action.

When I got it back, it was what I think to be a kind of desert brown, with black accessories and this is the result - see attached images.

I had to reassemble the gun, which was a slightly bit more tied, but after playing with the action a bit, it was running again as it originally did. Seems with what you all write, the person ceracoating it knew very well what it did.

I am very pleased with my 'tacticool' model 36, which has a very unusual sight, but which each time I get to the range suddely the tupperware guys want to have look and shoot it. They end up asking me where they can get a revolver like that .

By the way, the finish is really good - it get's often shot, and the coating is still perfect (except the burn rings on the cylinder face).

So I think this little neglected mod 36 got a better second life, I am not considering selling it for even 5 times what it costed me.

Best from Belgium - B686
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Old 12-06-2020, 11:21 AM
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Any of you guys Cerakote your revolvers? Any of you guys Cerakote your revolvers? Any of you guys Cerakote your revolvers? Any of you guys Cerakote your revolvers? Any of you guys Cerakote your revolvers?  
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Looks like the ceracoater knew what they were doing. Looks brand new.
Maybe not my personal taste in colors, but a good deal!

The two inch rule is interesting. Happy you benefitted.
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Old 12-06-2020, 03:18 PM
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3rdgeargrndrr 3rdgeargrndrr is offline
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Any of you guys Cerakote your revolvers? Any of you guys Cerakote your revolvers? Any of you guys Cerakote your revolvers? Any of you guys Cerakote your revolvers? Any of you guys Cerakote your revolvers?  
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Would be nice to see a bunch of before pictures
I have a taurus that is really loose. I would like to think some cerakote would tighten it up but i have no hope for it. Not even worth $50 to send back to Miami

Last edited by 3rdgeargrndrr; 12-06-2020 at 03:19 PM.
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Old 12-27-2020, 01:53 PM
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Any of you guys Cerakote your revolvers? Any of you guys Cerakote your revolvers? Any of you guys Cerakote your revolvers? Any of you guys Cerakote your revolvers? Any of you guys Cerakote your revolvers?  
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Me and a buddy have had several complete guns and parts black nitrided by H&M without any issues with fit. Here’s a 15-2 I had done.
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