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01-19-2021, 02:47 PM
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Which Years and Models S&W 357 Most Durable
If you had to choose a personal S&W 357 magnum revolver for everyday hunting and recreational shooting that would last a lifetime of rugged use... which Model and Years of MFG would you choose? Something for the Zombie Apocalypse.
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01-19-2021, 02:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ray45
If you had to choose a personal S&W 357 magnum revolver for everyday hunting and recreational shooting that would last a lifetime of rugged use... which Model and Years of MFG would you choose? Something for the Zombie Apocalypse.
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Quick answer. Any model 27 or 28 pinned and recessed.Barrel lengh your choice!
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01-19-2021, 02:57 PM
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Nickel 27-2..
Gotta look good doing it..
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01-19-2021, 02:57 PM
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Probably a 3-4” model 686, vintage probably not important. No disrespect intended toward blued/J-K-N frame proponents.
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01-19-2021, 03:10 PM
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Best s&w m27 or m28? Here’s my m27-2, nickel is Purdy and sexy too. I like 6” barrels I can’t lie.
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01-19-2021, 03:18 PM
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Model 28. If you run out of ammo you can beat 'em to death.
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01-19-2021, 03:28 PM
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27 or 28 is the only choice.
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01-19-2021, 03:36 PM
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I had a 686 CS-1 4” that lasted for thousands of rounds and still good to go. I shot a friends reloads that were way hot and jammed the cylinder but knocked it free and after years shooting it is somewhat loose.
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01-19-2021, 03:37 PM
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I'd go with stainless steel:
A 4" 686 or 681. I like older and pre-lock but any will probably do. With the 686+ you can even get a 7 shot.
An 8-shot 627 would be a suitable alternative. Probably go with a 5" barrel. Most of these have the internal lock, the pre-lock ones being much more desirable/expensive.
A distant third option would be a 3" model 60-10 with adjustable sites if you are into J frames.
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01-19-2021, 03:50 PM
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Seems that I read somewhere that the late 80’s S&W revolvers were the best and strongest. I have no openings on that because I simply don’t know if some years are stronger than others. I do like the older ones.
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01-19-2021, 03:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigggbbruce
Nickel 27-2..
Gotta look good doing it..
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A 28-2 can look good as well.
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01-19-2021, 04:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by murphydog
Probably a 3-4” model 686, vintage probably not important. No disrespect intended toward blued/J-K-N frame proponents.
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As much as I love N frames, I tend to agree with murphydog. I bough a brand new 27-2 in the mid-1970’s and have shot it for years. I doubt it had 5000 rounds of magnums through it, when I had to send it back to S&W because it was out of time (shaving lead) and it had excessive endshake. There’s a lot of mass/rotational inertia on those big cylinders when you pull the trigger quickly.
The 686-4 Plus is probably one of the strongest and most durable .357’s S&W ever made. I piked the 7–shot version, because the stop notches are between the chambers, which eliminates the thin spots in the cylinder.
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01-19-2021, 05:49 PM
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1. "Everyday hunting and recreational..." implies that the gun will be carried.
2. "Zombie apocalypse" implies serious tactical use.
3. "Durable" implies real-world, long-term reliability with full-powered ammunition.
#2 is best met by a high-cap semi-auto. If a revolver is still desired, then there is no reason to restrict oneself to six rounds. That leaves two options: Seven-round L-frames or eight-round N-frames.
#3 would appear to be a slam-dunk for the N-frames, however, I have never seen any scientific evidence for the N-frames real-world better durability over the L-frame.
#1 requires that the gun be carried, and in a #3 situation, carried a lot. This requires decisions on how much weight you want to lug around and how long a barrel you want to haul out of a holster in an emergency. Barrel length has implications for performance of magnum ammunition and sight radius, and also "handiness". It may also have be affected by hunting regulations in your area in non "zombie apocalypse" times. "Durability" may also require sticking to stainless steel vs. carbon steel or scandium alloy. Only you can work out those compromises for yourself.
I would add one more possible screening requirement: availability in a gun-store. If you have to special-order it, you have to rely on manufacturer quality-control or be prepared to argue with the factory and then send it back and wait. Their idea of "meets specs" may not be yours.
Throw all of this in a blender and I come up with what is simply my opinion, based on my thinking process:
FIRST CHOICE: S&W 686+, 4.125" barrel.
Pros: Handy. Not too heavy (39-ish oz., same as a 1911). Seven-shot. A frame size and trigger-reach that nearly anyone can handle. Often seen in gun shops (present shortage excepted), so you can check it out.
Cons: Seven shots. Needs speed-loaders. Barrel length may be too short. (Note: the other length commonly available is six-inch and there are also five-inch variations, which I have NEVER seen in a shop).
SECOND CHOICE: S&W 627 PC, 5" barrel.
Pros: Eight-shot. Custom shop action. Reloads with moon-clips. Five-inch barrel gets better performance.
Cons: I have never seen one in a shop. You'd probably have to special order it and take your chances. Moon-clips in revolver calibers can be finicky as to what brands work in which clips. Weighs more (44 oz.). Trigger reach is slightly longer, which may or may not be a factor with you.
HONORABLE MENTION: The 686+ with a six-inch barrel. You trade off length and weight (43.5 oz.) for a revolver that gets better performance (with less recoil and noise), and is easier to shoot more accurately. Locally, I see these about as often as I see the 4.125" version. The long-barreled revolver is more sluggish to handle, compared with the
shorter model.
My personal view is that the MIM-parts and Lock issues are non-starters in the search. Other will passionately disagree.
I enjoy thought experiments like this! Hope this helps others think it through.
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01-19-2021, 07:24 PM
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For your intended uses, Id go N frame as many here have confidence that frame laughs at .357. I'd opt for stainless just for durability of the finish and finish it with an 8 shot cylinder. That revolver will get it done with style. For the diversity of uses listed 3-5" barrel.
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01-19-2021, 07:26 PM
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627 8 shot 5" barrel.
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01-19-2021, 07:37 PM
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I also would pick one of my 3" - 4" 686's.
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01-19-2021, 07:50 PM
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My 686 plus 5 inch barrel.
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01-19-2021, 07:52 PM
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Out of the gate my preference is mid-1990's L and N frames, pre-MIM with hammer-mounted firing pin. Think 686-3 and dash 4, 29-5 and dash 6, and 629-3 and dash 4. My 27 and 28 are old school dash 2, pinned and recessed.
I enjoy my N frames, but for all around general purpose and field carry I have to give the nod to the L frame. My order of preference:
686-4 7-shot 4" (or a 629-4 Mountain Gun .44 Magnum).
686-4 6-shot 6".
28-2 4" or 6". Matte finish, built for field and duty use.
27-2 5" or 6". All around classic S&W.
Consider the K-frames, too. I have a 13-2 3" that is perfect for packing in the field.
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Last edited by The Gila Bender; 01-19-2021 at 08:12 PM.
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01-19-2021, 08:58 PM
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I’m partial to my 2018 6.5” Model 27-9. I prefer a long barrel without the nose-heavy underlug of the 586/686, the N-frame size fits my XL/2XL hand-size and the single-action trigger is even better than my Colt 1911 National Match. And, it can handle my current favorite magnum load.
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01-19-2021, 09:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ray45
If you had to choose a personal S&W 357 magnum revolver for everyday hunting and recreational shooting that would last a lifetime of rugged use... which Model and Years of MFG would you choose?
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I already made that choice. My 1960 6.5" M-27 that I added Cokes to.
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01-19-2021, 11:40 PM
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One of the S&W N-Frame or L-frame .357s. I know you said which S&W, but for something apocalypse worthy, I have little doubt the Ruger Redhawk, Blackhawk and GP100 would be in the same durability category. The Freedom Arms single action .357s might just be tops for durability, but I'd hate to have to try to wear out any of those I mentioned. No doubt my wrist and resources would give out first. Much as I admire the S&W K-Frame .357s, I wore out my early Model 66 in about 6 years of mostly Magnum ammo. Sent it back to S&W for overhaul, everything but frame and side plate were replaced. Reportedly the new Model 66s are more robust, but I have no experience with those.....
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Last edited by Rock185; 02-11-2021 at 02:55 AM.
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01-19-2021, 11:42 PM
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I'll take my 686-4 6" , have owned it new since 1994 and have probably put more rounds of 357 thorough it than all my other 357 revolvers combined.
The square butt L-frame grip fits me much better than the N-Frame square butt grip. Add to that my 6" 686 with wood grips is actually more comfortable to shoot than my 8 3/8" 27 with wood grips.
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01-19-2021, 11:46 PM
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Ruger GP-100.+1
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01-20-2021, 02:10 PM
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686-2, -3 or -4. Best combo of build, materials, heat treat and so forth.
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01-20-2021, 02:20 PM
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How many times have I written that a 4" 686 is the best utility/duty/general purpose revolver you can own!
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01-20-2021, 03:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BAM-BAM
How many times have I written that a 4" 686 is the best utility/duty/general purpose revolver you can own!
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I give up. How many.
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01-20-2021, 04:21 PM
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Considering it is the ZOMBIE Apocalypses, There is no doubt tha I woould be choosing one of the 8 shot revolvers from the Model 27/327/627 family of firearm's
Probably one with a 5-6 1/2" barrel and my preference would be for stainless steel
My pick would probably go to the Model 627 Heavy Hunter. The extra weight dispersing some of the recoil energy thus hopefully reducing wear and tear on component parts
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01-20-2021, 04:31 PM
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Once again, I’m an outlier 😀
I prefer the M19, preferably a 19-4 or earlier.
The N frames are too large for carry, in my experience.
The P&R 19’s are classier than the later versions (and class is important, even in a zombie apocalypse).
The L frames are functional, but aren’t as handy as the K frames.
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01-20-2021, 05:49 PM
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Steel L frame takes a licking.
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01-21-2021, 12:14 AM
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686-4 four inch or six, in 6 or 7 shot.
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01-21-2021, 02:15 AM
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One that you bought new, thus possessing the lifetime service policy. That's more reliable than any combination of frame, dash number.
Make it an L or N frame can't hurt either.
Last edited by gr7070; 01-21-2021 at 02:19 AM.
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01-21-2021, 09:02 AM
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"N" frame is obvious, just based on its size ( forcing cone on my M-28 looks like it's from a howitzer ). But I'd say the "L" frame is plenty strong as well.
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01-21-2021, 09:25 AM
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Ironic...I have owned many S&W revolvers over the years. Models 19, 66, 586, 28, and some in other calibers...36, 60, 442, 29.
Only one that ever failed (and failed BIG) was the Model 28. One fine day while it was sitting in a drawer, the mainspring just **snapped** in two.
No rhyme or reason. Just "Bink" and rattle. S&W sent me a new spring; no explanation as to how or why this occurred.
For the desert island gun? I'd take a Ruger GP100.....
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01-22-2021, 12:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gr7070
One that you bought new, thus possessing the lifetime service policy. That's more reliable than any combination of frame, dash number.
Make it an L or N frame can't hurt either.
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OP specifically asked for Zombie Apocalypse. Not sure if FedEx would be able to provide reliable tracking information back to the Mothership at that time
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01-22-2021, 12:51 PM
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Some of you have very exacting opinions and seemingly very good ones. This thread certainly narrows down the choices of best overall S&W 357 for stated purposes. I just added a couple of these picks to my dream/wish list.
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01-22-2021, 01:44 PM
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Ray45, "everyday hunting" and "recreational shooting" Go with a 686-4 6" barrel.
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01-22-2021, 02:05 PM
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01-22-2021, 02:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by double-dipper
Ray45, "everyday hunting" and "recreational shooting" Go with a 686-4 6" barrel.
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I’m beginning to believe you and others are onto something good with the 686-4.
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01-22-2021, 02:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by murphydog
Probably a 3-4” model 686, vintage probably not important. No disrespect intended toward blued/J-K-N frame proponents.
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^^THIS^^
Lighter and more compact than the N frames without the inherent forcing cone weakeness of the K-frames. Though I'd probably go with the 7 shot 686+
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With adjustable sights? 27 or Pre 27
Here's my 5' Pre
Fixed sights? A 520.
N frame .357's make for low stress shooting.
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01-22-2021, 09:11 PM
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MOD 28
A Model 28 in 4" is durable gun for everyday carry
Less expensive than MOD 27 and doesn't have the bright blue that will tarnish easily.
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01-23-2021, 01:55 AM
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Not trying to hijack but I notice that many, many of you specify a 686-3 or 4, more -4 's than any other 686 model, why? Is there indeed a betterment of the heat treat? Forging? Parts in general?
I just bought a 686+-5 and am wondering if this durability rating carries through to the -5's.
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01-23-2021, 06:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBro
Not trying to hijack but I notice that many, many of you specify a 686-3 or 4, more -4 's than any other 686 model, why? Is there indeed a betterment of the heat treat? Forging? Parts in general?
I just bought a 686+-5 and am wondering if this durability rating carries through to the -5's.
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ANSWER: Because "some" of us bought up all the old 686NDs.
Got two them myself, both AUExxxx....
Bought the first one of the two, in mid-1986.
Last edited by HorizontalMike; 01-23-2021 at 06:29 AM.
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01-23-2021, 07:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BC38
^^THIS^^
Lighter and more compact than the N frames without the inherent forcing cone weakeness of the K-frames. Though I'd probably go with the 7 shot 686+
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While L-frames are certainly more compact (especially in cylinder width), they are not usually lighter than their N-frame counterparts. The reason is the very heavy barrel on most (not all) L-frames. Your preference regarding how much weight you like out on the barrel and where you like the balance point will guide your choice.
From an old catalog and the current S&W site:
Model 28 Highway patrolman - 4" is 41.75 oz, 6" is 44 oz.
Model 586 (square-butt grip frame) 6-shot - 4" is 41.3 oz, 6" is 46.3 oz.
Model 686+ (round-butt grip frame) 7-shot - 4.125" is 39.7 oz, 6" is 44.9 oz.
Note: I'm comparing common N-frames (which you might find used), with L-frames usually seen in the stores. As with most S&W revolvers, there are exceptions!
And, just because it was mentioned above: 627PC (round-butt grip frame) 8-shot - 5" barrel is 43.2 oz. An old Model 27 in 5" (what some once considered a very good choice for the one-gun man), was catalogued at 42.5 oz. The PC gun only gained .7 oz, in spite of its heavier barrel. The reason, of course, is the two extra chambers and the round-butt frame.
What a weighty post! Enjoy and let us know what you get.
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01-23-2021, 08:43 AM
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Measuring my own "loaded" revolvers": - L-Frame 686ND 4in 6-shooter = 43.0oz
- N-Frame 627PC 2.62in 8-shooter = 42.4oz
This is just 0.6oz difference, with the lighter 627PC 8-shot being the winner!
As much as I love my pair of 686NDs, my 627PC snub is quickly earning my respect, as it handles recoil just as well as my 686s. AND has two(2) more rounds!
Last edited by HorizontalMike; 01-23-2021 at 08:45 AM.
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01-23-2021, 09:34 AM
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If I had to pick one S&W 357 Magnum revolver as my only 357 Magnum revolver, I would pick a Model 686 Plus with a 5 inch barrel.
The L-frame is plenty strong for tens of thousands of full power loads like the N-frame, but has the grip size of the K-frame, which provides better DA trigger reach length.
A 5 inch barrel provides good carry characteristics with shoulder holsters and OWB holsters while providing a longer sight radius for hunting and target duties.
The 686 Plus also has a 7-shot cylinder. If I did my math correctly, that's one round more than a Model 27, 627, or Model 28. The 7-shot cylinder also positions the cylinder stop notches between chambers, which may prove to make the cylinder even more durable, no chance of the chamber swelling into the thin, stop notch area.
So there you have my pick for having only one S&W 357 Magnum revolver for the zombie apocalypse. Rick Grimes, eat your heart out.
Oh, I guess I should not use the "eat your heart out" phrase during a zombie apocalypse.
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01-23-2021, 09:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ray45
If you had to choose a personal S&W 357 magnum revolver for everyday hunting and recreational shooting that would last a lifetime of rugged use... which Model and Years of MFG would you choose? Something for the Zombie Apocalypse.
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Well, "a .357 that would last a lifetime of rugged use", pigeonholes it to a N-frame, since I don't care for the appearance of the underlug on L frames. So, if it's gonna be an N frame, I'd just as soon have one with a bigger hole in the end, say about 0.410", so my choice to knock zombies on their arses would be a M57.
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