686 deluxe- It appears that the detent for the ejector rod does not engage. With the cylinder closed the yoke is tight to the frame, but the catch barely engages the end, and when the front of the cylinder is pushed the rod moves outward. Does the end of the ejector rod need to be reamed?

First make sure rod is tight and not bent.

Everything is tight. Can't see any deflection, engagement is the same as the cylinder is turned. Best pics I could get. Maybe it needs to be sent back to s&w.

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The front locking bolt and cavity can sometimes get clogged with debris. Try adding some penetrant to the f. l. bolt and then, with the muzzle down, working it in and out to see if that frees it up.

If the locking bolt and cavity are clean but it isn't coming down far enough there is a bit of adjustment available. If needed, you can remove a bit of material from the front shoulder (muzzle end) of the pin cutaway. This will allow the f. l. bolt to protrude a bit further out, and engage the cavity in the extractor rod.

In my opinion, this is one of the hardest interfaces to fit correctly on these revolvers. Some gauge or space is needed for proper, unrestricted rotation.......but the extractor rod, cylinder assembly, and yoke also need this added support here at the front.




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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

The locking bolt moves freely and travels much farther out of the underlug with the cylinder swung out. I.E. if the rod was able to recess farther into the undercut, the bolt would easily have enough lenght to engage. I purchased new 6 months ago, maybe 200rnds through it. I plan to call customer service tomorrow about sending it back. Lacking other ideas

If the extractor rod is straight or has very little or no run out, it sounds like the barrel may not be properly aligned....or that it may be canted. Do you notice the barrel being "overclocked" or tuned past the 12 o'clock position in the frame? Does it or did it tend to shoot to the right when you first purchased it?

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

There is no noticeable runout. I held it against something and spun. I think you are correct about the canted barrel. The cutout for the rod in the underlug is not flush with the frame where it mates. If you look from the muzzle end, it seems the underlug is past the center of the frame. The sights are on from the factory, I never adjusted.

Provide pictures of the barrel to frame interface from the top and bottom. This should show if the barrel is or is not over-clocked.

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Pine_Worker
Ex-LEO, NRA Life

Is the centerpin too long, not allowing the front locking bolt in fully?

If you push the cylinder release fully forward does the (forward) end of the centerpin extend past the end of the ejector rod's barrel?

It should be flush to the end.

If it does extend excessively then maybe it's retracted length is what's not allowing the proper lock-up.

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Waiting for the break of day

Yes with the cylinder open use a piece of hard flat material to press the center pin flush to the ratchet. The center pin should only be flush or just a hair past the tip of the ejector at that point. It supposed to be adjusted to that length. They often vary some. As BlueDot says if it is to long the front bolt won't be able to enter much

Center pin seems to be the appropriate length. When fully depressed from the ratchet end, it flushes out on the front. Will work on frame pics today. I think it never locked up, I just noticed it now.

Tried to show that the frame is proud of the recess in the underlug

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The barrel is pretty badly over-rotated. That's the reason for the mis-alignment of the front locking bolt.

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

Have you checked for debris at the back of the bolt slot (inside, back behind the hammer) or a stuck bolt plunger there? If the bolt can only partially retract back under pressure from the center pin, the pin might just barely engage in the hole in the recoil shield (thus holding the cylinder closed), but not far enough to allow proper engagement of the locking bolt into the front of the extractor rod.

To check this without removing the side plate, IF compressible debris are present at the back of the bolt slot, pulling back on the thumb piece when the cylinder is closed may give additional front locking bolt engagement and indicate this is the cause of the problem. Compare depth to which the bolt retracts below the recoil shield surface when thumb piece is pulled back with similar revolvers, if you have another available for comparison.

Causes already mentioned by others are perhaps more likely, but this would be a simple check to perform before sending back to S&W and could be fixed by detail cleaning. - Bill

Bill- I do have full range of motion of the rear bolt. I believe the hammer stop would be engaged otherwise. I can see into the end of the rod with the cylinder closed, there is space for the front bolt to go into. Good to check though.

^^^ What he said.

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Pine_Worker
Ex-LEO, NRA Life

S&W sent me a fedex label without hesitation. I am to include a letter describing the issue. Now to wait a few weeks for its return.

686 was returned today. Alignment and bolt engagement are great. S&W repair ticket said repaired locking bolt and aligned barrel.

Thanks for the update.

Glad you got your gun back in good shape.

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