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S&W Revolvers: 1980 to the Present All NON-PINNED Barrels, the L-Frames, and the New Era Revolvers


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Old 03-06-2021, 03:11 PM
The Preacher The Preacher is offline
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Default S&W 28-2 Thoughts Needed

Found a S&W 28-2 6 1/2" (really looking for a 4") in really nice shape 95% + (does have a screwdriver scratch on the right sideplate so someone was in it.) The issue is both the DA and SA trigger are way way too light. So, it may simply be the hammer spring screw needs turned in, or it could be someone messed with the sear etc. Don't know. Has Pachs on it so I couldn't see the hammer spring screw. I can have it for a very nice price but I'm a bit gun shy as to the trigger and hammer being "reworked"

Bottom line, if it is the worst case scenario and the sear has been messed with how hard would it be to find a period correct trigger and hammer? Any help would be appreciated.

The Preacher
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Old 03-06-2021, 03:36 PM
schutz5 schutz5 is offline
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N frame hammers and triggers are out there.
Used ones are a gamble since you can't judge too well online whether the fine surfaces have been 'worked on'.

New N frame hammers with the semi target spur cost less than the target hammer variant.

Midway USA might have some (they have the L frame hammer).
Other sources , Numrich, are around as is ebay. One new in package N frame hammer- target?- is being sold for $90 right now.

Since the revolver does not have the N frame wood stocks, much less the Target stocks ($100+ value), you need to consider this.

If it is an extremely good deal, then the gamble might be worth it if you plan to use it as a shooter vs safe queen.

Hope it is just the strain screw adjustment.

With the hammer cocked, push forward on the hammer in order to test for 'push off'.

If the hammer can be pushed to release forward,then you know the important surfaces have been fiddled down.

Also it may just be the sear on the hammer body that is too fiddled with.
That is a minor easier part to replace but you need a gunsmith to 'fit' it properly.
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Old 03-06-2021, 03:37 PM
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Groo01 Groo01 is offline
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Groo here
Good price???? get it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Replacing parts is not a problem.
Probably just springs [ ease to change and fix , just do search for N frame smith springs]
Cock the hammer [single action] and push forward on the hammer.
If it falls [push is off] the hammer/trigger are worn or Bubba got in there.
If not, replace springs....
Ps,First check main spring tention screw,,, should be in all the way.
If still too light,,, put a spacer [like an old primer] under and tighten slow.
If it gets heaver [ the way you like it] then Bubba "might "have shortened it.
But I doubt it....
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Old 03-06-2021, 03:39 PM
Sevens Sevens is offline
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I prefer the 6-inch to the 4-inch and I would be all over it for a “good price.”

The trigger isn’t specific to an N-frame, a K-frame trigger will work, and there are tons out there.
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Old 03-06-2021, 05:29 PM
PeteC PeteC is offline
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A bargain on a barrel length that you were NOT looking for, with an undiagnosed trigger or problem you have to fix? NOT a bargain!

A light trigger should be a red flag that someone has been messing with it, the scratch on the side plate suggests someone careless, so that is two red flags. A nice factory target grip for N-frame will cost $150 and up, $50~100 for aftermarket grips. So... hammer and trigger kit, stocks, damaged side plate. I am seeing $250-$300 worth of deductions from the price of a 28-2 in decent shape (!)

Having said that, I really enjoy shooting my 6" 28-2, even with full Magnum loads that normally hurt my twice fractured wrist!
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Old 03-06-2021, 05:33 PM
The Preacher The Preacher is offline
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Your first sentence makes a lot of sense Pete... Thanks. And thanks to the others who offered advice and info.

The Preacher
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