Specifically has anyone had the Master Action Package done on a Centennial such as a 642, 640, 332? Also, is there a difference in the benefit on a pre-MIM vs a MIM gun? I have done some work on K and N frames that had nice results but I really don't want to sacrifice reliability when it comes to the carry guns.

Are you planning to use that gun in competition? All my snubbies are for personal protection and I am positive if I have the need to use them as such, I am sure I will never be concerned over the smoothness or the weight of the trigger pull.
I would save my money for more important things.

I have a 351C that I smooth the action on using a online video. It made a big difference. I did my gun in steps to check the improvements as I went. Polishing the reset slide was the biggest change of all the internal work I did. I then polished the front and front edges of the trigger. These two items are the first things that I will do the next. Also if you are using the first pad on the trigger finger to pull the trigger you might want to move to the second pad you have more power to work with while firing. My 351C only weighs 11oz. and is a rimfire so it needs a heavy hammer strike so a smooth pull and control is most important with it as should be with all guns. If your shooting with the first pad try the second pad first before polishing anything it might just be your lucky charm.

I had it done to my M69 4" 44 Mag. Well worth the cost, and it does not void the factory warranty.

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Captain Dave Funk

I wouldn’t worry about reliability after an action job performed by Smith.

Better (lighter) action jobs can be had from other vendors: Smith’s action jobs are pretty conservative by comparison, likely to avoid liability.

I bought my wife an M642 last year for her Birthday... She wanted a hammerless/snagless replacement for her Colt Agent. We get it to the range and she can't completely pull the 9+ LBS DAO trigger.

So I purchase a reduced power "Hammer Spring" (1lbs reduction) and a corresponding Rebound Slide spring/kit from Wolff as well... I bought some nice multi grit "India-Stones" and then took off the sideplate. I watched some of Jerry Miculek's video's about 5-6 times and went slow. The hammer strut/spring was strait forward... I then "Polished" to a bright shiny-hue every side of the Rebound-Slide... again "Polishing" and not removing any metal/material with the India-Stones and Rebound Spring with the "Wolff" replacement one... Then I stoned the trigger/hammer contact sears to a bright "Polish" as well removing ZERO material... Lubed all contact points with SLP-2000 oil and then buttoned her sideplate, yoke, and sideplate screws back up on her.

Then I dry fired with Snap Caps during a movie between 500-600 times.

End Results, an M642 that has a sub-5.5lbs DAO trigger that the wife can easily perform double taps and chamber dumps with. It touches-off even the hardest "Ruski" steel cased primers to the Boutique manufacturer's softest of primers and everything in-between we have tried.

This M642 now has a trigger that is almost as nice as my 83' manufactured M24 Lew Horton Special... Turned out really nice and she carry's this everyday!

Attached Images

	M642 Airweight with Magna's and Vintage Tyler T right side.jpg (46.9 KB, 41 views)
	M642 Airweight with Magna's and Vintage Tyler T.jpg (42.3 KB, 27 views)

Add a tad of moly paste to all metal to metal contact moving parts besides what’s said above.

My thoughts on mim vs pre mim parts. We being the end product user get to break in the mim parts. I’m thinking we can have less wear in the end with mim parts. Moly the inners and cycle it as said above to break it in.

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Plant garlic in the fall