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S&W Revolvers: 1980 to the Present All NON-PINNED Barrels, the L-Frames, and the New Era Revolvers


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Old 03-19-2021, 10:30 PM
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I have pretty gone awy from dual cylinder guns and only have a couple of 45 colt cylinders with a recess for acp in moon clip guns and a 38 special with a cylinder reamed for 9mm and moon clips.

Pulling one screw and the yoke isn't hard, but someone posted a picture of a yoke that would pivot and allow the cylinder to come off. I though that was pretty slick and said so. Some kind soul sent me 3 stainless K frame yokes and I have been thinking about how to do it. Every thing has to be just right to make it happen, plus it will take 2 yokes to make one because your going to loose material cutting one in half. Then perfectly square. perfect alignment on pivot shaft and hole etc etc. So, I am sitting at my desk, a couple cylinders sitting there and some yokes and the light came on. What your trying to do is get the cylinder off while yoke is mounted. HEY, it strikes me that there is a much simpler way to change out a cylinder. Simply make a channel just wide and deep enough for the lug that goes forward to a scallop in front of cylinder. Les material than a scallop. You would have to alight the cut in cylinder perfectly with frame lug to slide the cylinder off past the frame lug. Chances perfect alignment while ejecting are pretty slim and reloading your pressing forward. I guess you could put a small jog in lug channel it you did eject a just the right spot it would only move a little and when you were reloading you could take care of that.

Just thinking
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Old 03-19-2021, 11:34 PM
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The only problem is that you don't have a lot of arc as the yoke swings out to work with.
What about a button in the frame, like (I think) Korth does it?
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Old 03-20-2021, 03:54 AM
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Groove I am talking about only has to line up when the cylinder is fully open. then cylinder would come straight back if groove and lug where lined up. I have some spare K frame 38 cylinders. I am going to make one.
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Old 03-20-2021, 04:31 AM
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Jim,

Since we are talking about grooves and notches. How about notching the button end of the yoke? Would have to be pre spring loaded yoke screw revision. Not quite fully open against the frame so when reloading less chance of cylinder falling out. Maybe possible since it's not a magnum beating against the yoke retention screw? Asking for a friend.
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Old 03-20-2021, 06:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steelslaver View Post
...I have pretty gone awy from dual cylinder guns and only have a couple of 45 colt cylinders with a recess for acp in moon clip guns and a 38 special with a cylinder reamed for 9mm and moon clips ...
Jim, I agree with you on dual cylinder revolvers. Pain in the neck, each time you change cylinders you need to resight the revolver.

In my opinion, much better to have two revolvers each sighted in for a chosen load.

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Originally Posted by steelslaver View Post
...Pulling one screw and the yoke isn't hard, but someone posted a picture of a yoke that would pivot and allow the cylinder to come off. I though that was pretty slick and said so. Some kind soul sent me 3 stainless K frame yokes and I have been thinking about how to do it. Every thing has to be just right to make it happen, plus it will take 2 yokes to make one because your going to loose material cutting one in half. Then perfectly square. perfect alignment on pivot shaft and hole etc etc. So, I am sitting at my desk, a couple cylinders sitting there and some yokes and the light came on. What your trying to do is get the cylinder off while yoke is mounted ...
I missed that thread but it sounds interesting.

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Originally Posted by steelslaver View Post
...HEY, it strikes me that there is a much simpler way to change out a cylinder. Simply make a channel just wide and deep enough for the lug that goes forward to a scallop in front of cylinder. Les material than a scallop. You would have to alight the cut in cylinder perfectly with frame lug to slide the cylinder off past the frame lug. Chances perfect alignment while ejecting are pretty slim and reloading your pressing forward. I guess you could put a small jog in lug channel it you did eject a just the right spot it would only move a little and when you were reloading you could take care of that ...
If you made the flute extension just bigger than the frame lug it would require perfect alignment to remove the cylinder.

Also, would this be a revolver used for self defense? If not, you would have time to make sure the flute extension did not align during a reload.

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...Just thinking...
Nothing wrong with that. Idle musings often lead to easier ways to accomplish an end.

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Old 03-20-2021, 07:42 AM
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Yeah, but the lug keeps the cylinder from sliding off the yoke when you point the muzzle skyward and whack the ejector rod to eject empties. Also, the stocks might prevent the cylinder from moving far enough to the rear to be easily removed from the yoke. Interesting idea, but I don't think I would do it.
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Old 03-20-2021, 08:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steelslaver View Post
I have pretty gone awy from dual cylinder guns and only have a couple of 45 colt cylinders with a recess for acp in moon clip guns and a 38 special with a cylinder reamed for 9mm and moon clips.

Pulling one screw and the yoke isn't hard, but someone posted a picture of a yoke that would pivot and allow the cylinder to come off. I though that was pretty slick and said so. Some kind soul sent me 3 stainless K frame yokes and I have been thinking about how to do it. Every thing has to be just right to make it happen, plus it will take 2 yokes to make one because your going to loose material cutting one in half. Then perfectly square. perfect alignment on pivot shaft and hole etc etc. So, I am sitting at my desk, a couple cylinders sitting there and some yokes and the light came on. What your trying to do is get the cylinder off while yoke is mounted. HEY, it strikes me that there is a much simpler way to change out a cylinder. Simply make a channel just wide and deep enough for the lug that goes forward to a scallop in front of cylinder. Les material than a scallop. You would have to alight the cut in cylinder perfectly with frame lug to slide the cylinder off past the frame lug. Chances perfect alignment while ejecting are pretty slim and reloading your pressing forward. I guess you could put a small jog in lug channel it you did eject a just the right spot it would only move a little and when you were reloading you could take care of that.

Just thinking
sounds like a lot of unnecessary work .Some had the right Ideal, get another gun. However with an Auto it's different story, I bought a conversion kit for my LC380 Ruger to convert to 9mm. Works great . Comes assembled with 9mm magazine, all that was necessary was field stripping and changing slide assembly. A little pricy but I wanted it.
I have the EC9s and LCP, but the LC.380 is my carry gun.
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Old 03-20-2021, 08:45 AM
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This is why I purchased the k38’s in 38 special. So I won’t shoot 38’s out of my 357 revolvers. I did the same thing with my 44 spec I got a m24.
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Old 03-20-2021, 11:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stansdds View Post
.... Also, the stocks might prevent the cylinder from moving far enough to the rear to be easily removed from the yoke....
That was my first thought. But given a large enough speedloader cutout, it might be OK.

If my torch cut WWIIish K frame paperweight had a more intact front end, it might do for proof of concept. Perhaps there's a destroyed top strap N frame that could be donated? Seems like there ought to be a few floating about.
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Old 03-20-2021, 12:57 PM
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Quote:
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...Perhaps there's a destroyed top strap N frame that could be donated? Seems like there ought to be a few floating about...
Where’s Elmer Keith when you need him?!?

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Old 03-20-2021, 01:01 PM
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My thoughts ... you did ask ,
It works best with Single Action Revolvers like the Ruger Blackhawks .
A .357 Magnum Blackhawk can have at least 6 different chambered cylinders from 380 auto to 357-44 Bains & Davis !
Just my thoughts ... I thought the 45acp / 45 Colt was a great combo!
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Old 03-20-2021, 01:06 PM
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The problem isn't complex if you have dual cylinder traditional single action revolvers - pull out the cylinder pin, put in the other cylinder and replace the pin. This can be done in seconds!

John

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Old 03-21-2021, 08:36 AM
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The problem isn't complex if you have dual cylinder traditional single action revolvers - pull out the cylinder pin, put in the other cylinder and replace the pin. This can be done in seconds!

John
The original speed loader.
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Old 03-21-2021, 10:19 AM
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I thought the original cylinder as speed loader (speed being relative) involved the Colt percussion guns. Ain't no cylinder pin there, screw & wedge. Wonder if anyone left the screw out to speed things up?
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Old 03-21-2021, 02:37 PM
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I am visiting my one brother, but when I get back home I just might try it with a spare 3
K frame 38 cylinder, a I have plenty of those. The only dual cylinder guns I have left is a J&G 110-7 with a 4' barrel and both a 38 spec and a 9mm cylinder. Then a made up 22 Harvey Kay Chuck with a spare cylinder in 22 TCM. I have several 445 acps, several 45 colts and a couple with 45 colt cylinders that are setup so you can use 45acps in moon clips. I can drag about anything I want out of the safe to shoot anything I want. But, always willing to experiment
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Old 03-21-2021, 03:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PALADIN85020 View Post
The problem isn't complex if you have dual cylinder traditional single action revolvers - pull out the cylinder pin, put in the other cylinder and replace the pin. This can be done in seconds!

John

The problem is also not complex with the new Taurus 692. Just push a button on the side, .357 cylinder pops out and 9mm cylinder pops in. Done.
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Old 03-21-2021, 03:22 PM
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Here is how Astra did it on their dual cylinder revolvers.

They moved the groove forward and added a spring loaded catch. Their non-dual cylinder revolvers are similar to the S&W retention.

That is a S&W cylinder in the foreground for comparison.

This is way beyond my skill level, it I have seen your work here and you could pull it off.

Last edited by bulletslap; 03-21-2021 at 03:25 PM.
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Old 03-21-2021, 08:34 PM
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I have a 63 with 2 cylinders. Have
Never put .22 cylinder back in it
Just bought a extra 63 , so I don't
Have to change sights.
651's are high priced.
63 with Magnum cylinder ,out
Shoots my stock 63.
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Old 03-21-2021, 11:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WR Moore View Post
I thought the original cylinder as speed loader (speed being relative) involved the Colt percussion guns. Ain't no cylinder pin there, screw & wedge. Wonder if anyone left the screw out to speed things up?
No need to remove the screw. It is there to keep you from losing the wedge.
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Old 03-22-2021, 12:46 AM
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Mine is a stainless Ruger Blackhawk in 327 federal with a spare 32-20 Winchester cylinder.


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Old 03-24-2021, 09:21 AM
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Well I made the cut in a 38 special cylinder and it works. I can get the cylinder off the yoke with grips with a cut out. As pull the cylinder back you can tilt it farther away from the frame. One thing I did have to do is ramp the cut where the cylinder stop rides as the stop would of course pop up and hit the side of the slot, a bit of a polished ramp there and the stop rides up and over then pops into the next lead in and lock it correctly. I have to decide if I want to put the slot on a 9mm K frame cylinder I made so I can use it or the 38 cylinder. I don't think I will. It was just an idea that I wanted to see if it would work and it does.

I'll take a couple pictures later. I have been busy making a Damascus/Oosic chefs knife for a friend. Blade is 11" long 2+" deep and 17" overall. 1095/15N20 raindrop Damascus with a 1095 core. The black is from a big sheet of carbon fiber composite that was made for the Stealth Fighters.


Last edited by steelslaver; 03-24-2021 at 09:33 AM.
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Old 03-24-2021, 09:37 AM
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Astra had a nifty revolver that had a spring loaded button and if I recall, FN sold it as the FN Barracuda, or something like that.
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Old 03-24-2021, 09:48 AM
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I saw the title and immediately thought about mating a charter arms undercover, and southpaw... two cylinders side by side, swing out on opposite sides... I need to read into the threads more lol
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Old 03-24-2021, 10:07 AM
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Ya, you could shorten the front side plate screw and turn down the button so yoke could come in and out. Then turn another groove on yoke pivot shaft forward of the old one. Then make a spring loaded cross shaft with a cut in it and mount it in the frame, so that when it was pushed sideways the cut in it would line up and allow yoke to go forward and in its home position it would hold the yoke the same as the screw does. It could be flush with side of frame in normal position and then you would need something to press it sideways to release the yoke.

A piece something like this
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