New here.
So I am going to purchase a new 357.
I have been looking at the
686 6" Stainless 6 shot.
Also the Ruger GP100 in same.
I shot both side by side and like both.
Will be using mostly for silhouette matches, so medium heavy loads.
A lot of shooting.
Tell me why I should choose the Smith over the Ruger.
Honest pros and cons.
Thanks in advance

__________________
Failure is not an option

It all depends on when each of the S&W or Ruger Revolvers were made, IMHO. If you’re talking about a vintage M586/686 I’d definitely go with the vintage S&W. If you are talking a new production, you might want to consider the Ruger - at least from a trouble Fred prospective. Personally, I’m not a Ruger fan as I feel the Ruger’s are clunky and not as well made as the vintage S&W’s were. That said, Ruger’s quality has steadily increased over the years and the company continues to grow and their customer service seems excellent. Ruger’s triggers (at least from the examples I’ve shot) are creepy, sloppy and heavy while the S&W triggers were precise, crisp and smooth. All my Smiths are vintage and are incredibly well made, smooth and accurate. While never impressed much by the Ruger’s, they have been improving.

So if you’re interested in a vintage S&W and know how to properly check it out when purchasing, that would be my choice. If you don’t know Smiths, bring someone with you who does!

Since 2015 I have bought a Ruger GP-100 in 22 LR, and S&W 69, 617 and 686 revolvers. All were new production, not vintage.

The only problem I had with any of them was that the 69 was an early model that shot high with heavy loads.

I still have all the S&Ws but sold the Ruger shortly after buying it. I was solid and reliable but felt clunky and the trigger was heavy and gritty. It is normal for a 22 revolver to have a heavy DA trigger pull but even the SA trigger was heavy and gritty.

Cosmetically the Ruger had some casting marks that were only visible when the cylinder was open or grips were off that had no effect on function but bothered me more than the lock does.

There is no denying S&W's quality control is not what it used to be. I would recommend getting a S&W but buying one you can examine before you buy. Don't just buy one online.

You shouldn't. Were I in your position, the internal lock and seemingly frequent horror stories of poor customer service from S&W would make the Ruger my choice, without question.

__________________
Just Say No - To Social Media

My nephew bought a new 6” 686 two years ago that he has put 500 rounds of 38/357 through. Fit and finish is great. Accuracy is very good. He is very happy with it. If it were me i would want to inspect one before i bought it.

For me it would be the 686. Even the new ones have good triggers. Just look it over carefully to make sure everything is good before buying it. I know a store in Albuquerque that had a vintage 6 inch for sale last week. PM me if you want their info.

Welcome to the S&W Forums!
Either will suite your intended use, both are likely to be equally accurate and durable. The S&W is more likely to have a smoother, more crisp trigger than the Ruger, but some Rugers are blessed with good trigger actions. If considering a newly made S&W, be sure to give it a thorough inspection before buying. S&W seems to be busy cranking out polymer pistols by the truck load and the quality of their revolvers is suffering for the effort.

__________________
VCDL, GOA, NRA

Buy either from a local shop after close visual inspection.

Trust but verify.

__________________
Sure you did

I would not hesitate to buy a new 686 on-line. Make sure you give it a thorough inspection before signing for it. If problems develop later, you'll have the lifetime warranty to fall back on. A factory new 686-6+ (7 shot) was my first revolver purchase 5-6 years ago. Out of the box, it has as fine a trigger as any gun I've ever shot. I gave my Ruger GP-100 to my sister. It was accurate enough, but i just couldn't warm-up to its clunky looks and gritty trigger. The 686 will handle a ton of shooting. Lots of guys here use them for various competitions. The internal lock is a non-issue.
Welcome to the campfire!

__________________
George

Coincidentally, there is a member selling a no dash 686 here on this very forum right now.
I don’t know the seller, I’m not involved in any way, nor have I ever seen this particular firearm, etc. etc. etc.
I’m just saying…

Just buy a vintage Smith.

Preferably pre-1990.

It's as simple as that.

This example of that era is one of the best ever made and certainly preferable to the current production.

I went with a 686, unfluted, 7 round, 3-5-7. Nice shooter.

Thanks for the input.
I would be buying new online.
I have not seen either local for over a year and I work at the LGS. The internal lock does not bother me at all.
Have not delt with S&W CS much but I know their turn around time has been slow.

__________________
Failure is not an option

For your purpose, Silhouette competition, the S&W is far more accurate at a distance than the Ruger in my opinion. The trigger is better. The iron sights are more finely adjustable. New guns are drilled and tapped for scope/red dot sights.

Not much of a choice for me.

__________________
H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

I have 3 686-6s in various barrel lengths. All good shooters. I’ve never had a problem with the lock, besides it’s ugly.
I’ve shot my son’s 4” GP100. It was okay, but I prefer my Smiths.

First, I wouldn't buy either without personally seeing and handling. If the Smith & Wesson was a pre-lock model I would probably lean towards it. Otherwise, I would probably take the GP100. Don't mean to turn this thread into a lock versus pre-lock discussion, but that's my honest personal opinion.

Then be sure the seller has a return policy that is acceptable to you, just in case what you get is unacceptable. If you do buy a brand new 686, at least there is a factory warranty and you may need to make use of the warranty to correct any issues.

__________________
VCDL, GOA, NRA

Thanks again for the input.
Still have not found either.
Is the internals of the 686 different pre lock to lock model

__________________
Failure is not an option

I have purchased two 2022 production year 686 Plus models and both have been lemons. Just sent the second one back to the factory today.

Internals are the same design but quality will be MUCH different.

__________________
Centennial Every Day

the 686 is awesome. If you have to have a pre-lock model, the -4 is highly thought of. If it doesn't matter, find one in the barrel length you desire and go for it, whatever the era. You will not be disappointed.

Neither of the guns you’re considering are suitable for carry: they’re range guns.

I’ve always thought Ruger revolvers clunky and unattractive with miserable triggers.

I’m not a fan of Smith’s current L frame guns’ appearance.

If I was using a handgun for OPs purposes, I’d buy the Smith.

Bought a 3 inch 686 plus a couple years ago. Fit and finish are perfect. I prefer the S&W trigger over the Ruger.

I purchased a 686-6 used that was built in 2017, so a newer model. It has been excellent for me and with no issues. I could care less about the internal lock one way or the other. I don't use it so I just ignore it plain and simple. I truly don't understand why people get so worked up over it.

Rugers never fit my hands properly so I always struggled with them, but they just might fit you perfectly.

Good luck!

Three reasons people get worked up over it.

1. It is a symbol of the anti gun movement (which is honestly reason enough)
2. They have malfunctioned (extremely rare) but it has happened.
3. They are ugly.

All that said I'd still take a 686 with the lock over the Ruger. I can't help myself, I won't blame the poor gun for what Smith & Wesson has done to diminish it's good name. The 686 is one of the best handguns on Earth lock or no lock.

Goudy686,

Thank you for your insights. I didn’t get into firearms until 2008 so I don’t have any knowledge or history with items like the internal lock. Thanks again!

Having a no dash 686...and a Ruger GP100.....it would come down to an inspection....and picking the better of the two....which means having the guns in hand...no on order....

To my mind it’s a toss up. Shop for the best price. Personally, I’d look for a dash 4 or earlier.

Here are my:

2.5” 686 no dash Lew Horton
2.5” 686-3
2.5” 686-4+

Attached Images

	A2674E54-FD24-4752-94E2-8C44B44F935E.jpg (61.2 KB, 14 views)
	E6A1E0D5-F592-49F8-9416-094F02DD6DAC.jpg (98.0 KB, 13 views)
	42F8E7FC-1F59-4859-8DF1-367DE66FA513.jpg (83.9 KB, 13 views)

__________________
213th FBINA

I recently bought a new 686 Plus Performance Center. It is now my favorite revolver. I have zero experience with Ruger revolvers so I can't speak on them much. However, I have heard if you get a Ruger revolver and have it get a trigger job then they are great shooting guns. To me it comes to how much money you can afford since Smith & Wessons usually are very expensive. And if money isn't an issue, I would just buy both.

No worries, I did not grow up with guns either, and I am far from an expert on most things gun related. The 686 is the one exception, I fell in love with the platform and have dedicated a lot of time learning about my all-time favorite gun. If you ask me about any other firearm I am a novice, it is just the 686 which I am an expert with.

686 (1980): No dash, Begin regular production.
686-1 (1986): Radius stud package; floating hand.
686-M (1987): Recall by S&W and overstamped to indicate a modification by the factory or warranty station; applies to 686 and 686-1 only.
686-2 (1987): Change hammer nose, bushing and associated parts.
686-3 (1988): New yoke retention system.
1990: 2-1/2" barrel introduced.
686-4 (1993): Change rear sight leaf, drill and tap frame, change extractor, introduce Hogue grips.
1995: Introduce power port barrel.
1995: Introduce 7-shot cylinder with seven flutes in 6" barrel length with round butt frame. Serrated backstrap, smooth trigger, 7-point star extractor, RR front sight, service hammer WO rear sight blade, Hogue grips with S&W logo.
1996: Delete square butt; begin shipments in a foam-filled blue plastic case.
1997: Change thumbpiece; ship with Master trigger lock.
686-5 (1997): Change frame design to eliminate cylinder stop stud; eliminate serrated tangs; change to MIM hammer with floating firing pin, change to MIM trigger, change internal lockwork.
686-6 (2001): Internal hammer and trigger key lock.
686-7 (2002): Performance Center variation in .38 Super.

Here is a list of changes made with each generation for your reference. Mine is a -1 modified (M Stamp) to be a dash 2 technically. The inside of the grips will tell you the year mine is 1987, I was born in 1988 so I was one year off from a birth year gun but I do not get too hung up on that.

The most coveted tend to be the no dash due to being the original and the -4 because it is considered the pinnacle of pre-lock versions. I think they are all great, and even lock versions can be cool, especially the 7 shot ones. Having an extra round of 357 is a phenomenal improvement IMO. The 3 inch 586 pre-lock also tend to be considered pretty rare, I would love to get my hands on one personally as my 4 inch is a little too long for daily carry.

Edit:
Almost forgot to mention the 586 is just the blue version of the 686, and the 3 inch 586 is one of my personal grail guns.

I hope I don't get banned for saying this but, if I could not find a pre lock 686 I might lean towards a new Python. If you can't work with the trigger send it to Mike Hefron he will fix it up for you.

I do not think personal preference will get you banned, at least I would hope not. The Colt Python is a phenomenal firearm, nothing wrong with liking it over a 686. I personally cannot stand the pull release on Colt Revolvers but even a Smith fan can acknowledge Colt makes some phenomenal firearms.

686 and it ain’t even close. Now if you wanted a debate you’d have said S&W or Colt.

Well ok.
How about the new 686 vs the new Python.
I have one available at the lgs.
Going to start a separate thread.

__________________
Failure is not an option

I am starting to think we have the same LGS because mine has a new Python for 1500$ 😂 maybe just coincidence.

I've heard the new Python had issues at first but they quickly resolved them. Python is a fantastic gun but if I am going to shell out half a grand more I'd want a classic Blued Python the one my LGS has is stainless.

What answers would you expect to get when you as a group of Smith owners? Go to the Colt forum and ask. Go to the Ruger forum and ask. What do you think the answers will be? You just need to handle each of what you’re considering and shoot them if possible. All three are good choices and owners of each will swear by the guns they own.

I’m going to make an alternate solution to your needs. A vintage Smith model 28 or 27 would be an excellent choice. They’re available in 6” and built on Smiths toughest frame, the N frame. Both are built to the old standards with hand fitted forged parts not MIM. No lock and the strongest 357 Smith has built. They’re old world classics and in my opinion much better built, fitted and finished than the newer Smiths. In addition the increased weight will help with recoil.

I have lots of 586 and 686's. Here is my 6" 686-4 seven shooter.

great response

That LH is one of my grail.guns. Stunning piece you have there!!

I own 3 early L-frames and they are my favorite S&W revolvers. I have a 4" 586-3, a 6" 686-3 and a 4 "686 no dash, all newish old stock. I did fire 12 shots thru the 4" 686. That being said, I would not worry about the lock hole, I do have a model 29 Mountain Gun, which has the lock and it doesn't bother me as much as when I purchased it 10 yrs or so ago. Turns out, that gun is about the tightest most accurate S&W I own. That being said, I would not turn up my nose at a GP100 either....many years ago-probably at least 20 yrs ago, I sold a GP100 to my good friend and I regret losing it although I am happy that he has cherished it these many years now-I do have an SP101 and a blue speed-six, both are Rugers in .357 mag too, and I regard them highly, so go see and shoot for yourself at a shooting range that rents out if possible...cheers and good luck pard!

I purchased, over the summer, a 686+ 2.5 inch. It had a very good trigger right out of the box. I am thinking of purchasing a 4” as well. Great firearm!