scratches

Hang-Fire Hank · #1 03-21-2009, 09:57 PM

Ladies & Gentlemen: I'm considering the purchase of a 696-0, which has two minor scratches & one deeper scratch. The latter looks as if it came from an errant screwdriver. Is it possible to remove the minor and MAJOR scratches? How? Thanks, Hang-Fire Hank

Hang-Fire Hank · #2 03-21-2009, 09:57 PM

Ladies & Gentlemen: I'm considering the purchase of a 696-0, which has two minor scratches & one deeper scratch. The latter looks as if it came from an errant screwdriver. Is it possible to remove the minor and MAJOR scratches? How? Thanks, Hang-Fire Hank

john traveler · #3 03-21-2009, 10:17 PM

It's relatively easy to remove scratches on an ALL stainless steel handgun.

Get some wooden popsicle sticks and a sheet of 600 or 1200 grit wet-or-dry abrasive paper from the local hardware store or auto supply store. Tear the abrasive paper into 1" wide strips, and wrap around the flat stick, or use a 1/2" flat file. Polish the scratched area using fore-and-aft strokes, keeping the stick flat on the surface. Avoid rounding off corners and edges. After abrasive paper polishing, follow up using green Scotchbrite pad. The final finish will be uniform, and look like the factory polish with the scratch gone.

DHart · #4 03-22-2009, 01:36 AM

Hank... you can do this. I did the same with a pawnshop-found not-cared-for 3" 66 with beautiful results. This gun was filthy and had numerous scuffs & scratches (including two fairly deep ones). Started with fine sandpaper, then ScotchBrite pads, finishing off with Flitz.

I say go for it and you'll be glad ya did!

Hang-Fire Hank · #5 03-22-2009, 06:28 AM

John &Dhart: Thank you both, fellas. Now if I can talk the guy down from $800, I'll do it. H-F Hank

LTC · #6 03-23-2009, 04:35 AM

I can't help but notice that the pictured revolver is loaded and COCKED in the photos.

LTC

JR78 · #7 03-23-2009, 08:31 AM

Also try using some automotive buffing compound on the scotchbrite pad. Then finish up with mag wheel polish sold at WalMart.

Hang-Fire Hank · #8 03-23-2009, 08:41 AM

Gents: Thank you for both for your suggestions. I printed out your instructions to keep for future use. I didn't "come to terms" with the seller & thought the condition didn't warrant the price (& no box), I elected to pass. DHart, I neglected to comment...that is a BEE-U-TEE-FULL 66 you have there!! H-F Hank

5Wire · #9 03-23-2009, 09:05 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by LTC:
I can't help but notice that the pictured revolver is loaded and COCKED in the photos.

LTC

I'm just guessing, but I suspect Dhart may have some chargeless, primerless cartridges lying around in different calibers for just such excellent photographs as we've come to expect from him over the years.

john traveler · #10 03-23-2009, 09:08 AM

Naw, his photography studio is named "Take Risks Photography".

DHart · #11 03-23-2009, 11:25 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by LTC:
I can't help but notice that the pictured revolver is loaded and COCKED in the photos.
LTC

My intent was to make a dramatic impression of seriousness and potency along with beauty. Of course measures were taken to be safe. And by no means do I wish to suggest that people photograph cocked and loaded guns!

LTC · #12 03-23-2009, 12:10 PM

DHart,
Thanks for the explanation. It was just a comment on what I saw. Nice photo and piece by the way.

LTC

DHart · #13 03-23-2009, 12:36 PM

LTC... your impressions are understandable for sure!

Hank... just a couple of other things, as you might already have thought, before refinishing remove the cylinder, cylinder latch, grips, and screws. Use the proper screwdriver for the screws to be sure they remain un-buggered. Keep your refinishing strokes running along the original lines of the grain (from bore to butt in straight lines). Just work slowly and carefully and in just one evening, you can totally transform a stainless gun into one that looks like new.