Hello everyone!
I wanted to know the consensus on this C&S product. Does this really work on our revos?
https://shop.cylinder-slide.com/ccp51/cgi-bin/cp-app.pl...=50&catstr=HOME:6:50

Hello everyone!
I wanted to know the consensus on this C&S product. Does this really work on our revos?
https://shop.cylinder-slide.com/ccp51/cgi-bin/cp-app.pl...=50&catstr=HOME:6:50

Definitely works on mine!

I currently have them in seven revolvers. No disappointments. The first thing I do with a frame-mounted pin is replace stock with the C&S item.

I like them ! Between my brother and I, we have about 4 in use. So far, no problems, and they sure help when you have a light DA pull.

If anyone is looking for one, I have a brand
new one for sale.

Thumbs up from me.
Don't know if they make one for the J's though? Haven't played with any of the newer one's enough to know?

They work better than the OEM from S&W.

Forum member BigCelt was kind enough to send me one. It cured the fail to fires on my model 65-5. Regards 18DAI.

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7 +1 Rounds of hope & change

I've got one in my 342Ti, My Only MIM Gun & it's working perfectly with the reduced power Wolff Mainspring..
I did however find that I had to make the outside diameter of the C&S Firing Pin a few thousanths smaller, I measured both the new C&S & The Factory Pin, Then chucked the New pin in my Dremel tool & turned it down to exact size with some wet/dry sandpaper & even polished it up too!
Best $12 you can spend IMO on Reliability if you go with reduced power hammer springs in one of the Newer Revolvers..
I've only used them in J Frames, Sure there just a good in K/L & N..
Gary/Hk

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MightShowYouHisSmith&Wesson

Exact same thing I found I had to do with them H/K, on the K's and L's I installed them in. On one K, I even had to clean out a bit of snot from the pin's raceway milling in the frame as well. If you recall, what was the over length pin's number for the Centennial's?

I like them and consider them a must for self defense guns.

I have acquired several "in the frame" S&W's in the last couple of years. Reading the comments about the OEM firing pins, I bought a couple C&S pins "just in case".

Well, I have several thousand rounds through several of the frame mounted revolvers and have yet to have a problem. So, I still have them "just in case".

I am not sorry I bought them but it may be a bit of overkill on my part.

YMMV
Dale53

Here is my comment on the C+S extended firing pins:

1) I hope their quality control has improved, since I had to rework all three of the ones I got when they first came out. They all were binding in the firing pin channel and stuck out so far they dragged on the primers.

2) They do ABSOLUTELY NOTHING to increase striking energy or improve ignition. I took the data and there is no change. The stock pin's shorter prtrusion is irrelevant since the primer will stop either pin at the same point in firing. It is the energy delivered that makes the difference and the firing pin does not change that.

A lighter mass hammer sure does, but that firing pin is a waste of $$$.

Apparently,the quality control is unchanged....

FYI, some comp shooters have posted that the C+S pins have broken under heavy usage. I have not heard of the factory pins breaking, I guess they are less brittle? Anyway, they changed back.

Randy Lee at Apex Tactical sells an excellent firing pin that is a little longer than stock. I opted for his firing pins instead of the C&S pins. On Brian Enos's forum the C&S pins do not get such rave reviews. These guys are competitive shooters and put tons of rounds downrange every year. One of the master class shooters told me about the Apex firing pins. Fit perfectly, and he even includes a spring with the firing pin.

Just an option!

Dr. Bill

By the way, his website is www.apextactical.com

The website says they will be available soon, but they are available right now. If you call Randy, who is a fantastic guy, he sell you one ... or however many more you want. I highly recommend anything he sells. He is a top competitor and a teriffic gunsmith.

Dr. Bill

hey bountyhunter,

the complaint I heard about the C&S firing pin was that they were prone to breakage. The competition guys are a little leary of them. I am just getting into competing with a revolver and have a 625JM that I use. Right now I am using the stock pin, but have put his pins in other revolvers and am very pleased.

Dr. Bill

I've seen a lot of posts with third- or fourth-hand info on C&S breakage, but never anything first-hand. I know they had some QC issues when the pins first came out, but I understand that those were corrected. Has anybody had, or have you seen, a recent-production C&S pin break? I'm curious, because I might consider the alternative.

I tuned my target gun to where it would give a light hit and misfire on a few rounds, then installed a C&S firing pin. No misfires since. I have fired at least 7,000 rounds and dry fire it some and not any problems. I don't think this is the heavy use that the best competition shooters put through a gun, so it may not be a good indicator. I had to chuck it up and polish it down a couple of thousands to get it to free up enough to work properly. I have also worked on a couple of new guns that misfired right from the factory, with full strength springs. Installed longer firing pin and obtained instant reliability. Lightened the action with continued reliability. However, I do not feel the need to replace the firing pin or any part that is working properly. I only replace them on the guns that are misfiring and other reasons are eliminated.

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Richard Gillespie
FBINA 102

if it ain't broke, don't fix it might apply here!. However, the firing pins I bought from Apex fit perfectly with no work required. To each his own. I have no personal experience with the C&S pins, but have personal experience with Randy's pins. I like his pins a lot.

Just my .02.

Dr. Bill

The C&S pins have a well-deserved reputation for breaking at an inopportune moment.

A search here and on the Brian Enos forum will yield lots of further information on that topic!

Just the thought of using them in a carry gun makes me feel sick to my stomach.

Yes, I have heard that they break. However, that's not my complaint. The three I bought were poorly made and did not fit until I reworked all of them. That really ticks me off.

They did not "improve ignition" in any way, which was exactly what C+S claimed they did when I bought them. That ticked me off too.

They are not horrible, they are still in my guns and will remain unless they break. But, I have no illusion they do anything the stock pins don't do just as well.

I offer that tidbit to anyone who wants to not waste their money. Like all internet opinions, take it for what it's worth.

That's interesting. On the thre 66's I tested, I had the spring force adjustable (strain screw) and measured the force by the DA pull with a precision pull gauge. So it was not a "go no-go" thing, I actually adjusted the spring force down until I got misfires with the same ammo in the same gun and measured the spring force for both firing pins and they were the same. No change.

One interesting note: I did find that the famous wolff "ribbed" mainspring can give a DA pull about 0.4# lower than a stock mainspring with both adjusted to the point of misfire. So, that patented ribbed design does appear to do something good albeit a small difference. It gives a bit lighter pull with the same striking energy.

I did try to email apextactical in the hope of getting one of their firing pins but has received no reply yet.
Any other options for a spare firing pin?

I believe he said to CALL Randy. You'll have better luck trying to call somebody rather than email.

TAG.......

I put one in my 22-4, just for the heck of it, and it would stick in the primers, locking up the gun. Repeatedly. I took it back out, put in the standard pin, and it again works perfectly. Mine puts a plenty healthy divot in the primers as is, and for me, anyway, the long pin is definitely not necessary.

Just want to bump this thread because I found it useful for my current problem. Going to give APEX a close look...

guys guys guys, this is indeed wonderful info on the frame mounted firing pins HOWEVER, my inquiry was about a dash 4 model 629 with hammer mounted FP.
So once again, does anyone have any experience with light strikes on 44 ammo or any ammo with light springs requiring an extended FP?

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Former LEO & firearms trainer

Sir,

I've reviewed this thread 2 or 3 times and never found your inquiry. Can you tell us what happened to it?

Since you've asked about extended hammer-nose FPs, I'll just say that, while I'm not an expert. I don't know of any such FPs ever being produced by either S&W or the aftermarket. In other words, all extended pins are the frame-mounted ones.

Regards,
Andy

My advice to eliminate light firing pin strikes is to re-install the original firing pin and main spring. Works every "Foxtrot-ing" time.

The firing pin in my Model 67 that I bought 6 or 7 years ago came with a short firing pin from the factory. I know it was short as I measured it, when I got light firing pin strikes on the primer. I replaced the short factory pin with the C & S firing pin, after measuring it for correct length. Since installing the C & S pin, I've fired many thousands of wadcutters and factory ammo with nary a problem. There was a period when Smith & Wesson was installing short pins and it was a known problem before Smith & Wesson started using better quality control.