When did they start?, and what models use them?, and can the old style still be found anywhere(Not aftermarket)?(and will they fit newer models)?
Also I have heard you cant dryfire the aftermarket ones? Why not?

When did they start?, and what models use them?, and can the old style still be found anywhere(Not aftermarket)?(and will they fit newer models)?
Also I have heard you cant dryfire the aftermarket ones? Why not?

anyone??

Iread some info on it from another thread, but can't remember the exact details. do a search on here about extended firing pins. any way they said that they have shortened the firing pins since they put the lock on them but 1 or 2 thousanths.

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May God Bless The USA

I purchased a new 686-6 3" 7-shot earlier this year. What I first noticed was that the firing pin did not come into the frame as far as the older models with the hammer-mounted version. I wondered if it was going to have ignition problems. But I have had absolutely no problems with it single or double action mode over the 800 rounds I have through it. All the rounds were reloads with CCI, Remington, and Winchester primers. I routinely dry fire all my guns on a limited basis, again with no ill effect.

I put one of the longer firing pins in my 22-4, and it immediately hung up. I think the pin was sticking in the primers. Couldn't say for sure. Put back the standard firing pin, and it works fine again. The standard pin puts a plenty deep divot on the primers.

Don't believe anyone when they tell you you need a longer firing pin for reliable ignition...

It varies by gun. Some won't give reliable ignition with the standard pin. Those need the longer pin. Most don't. Be careful with sweeping generalities, particularly with S&W. The longer firing pin fix has been around for a while now on guns that don't give reliable ignition. If your gun fires first time, everytime, you don't need the longer one.

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Dick Burg

I had issues with misfires with my 625-8. I have heard of a few problems with the 625 45ACPs like that but not other chamberings/models. A Cylinder & Slide extended length pin fixed the problem.

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" I said, good DAY! "

I had misfires with my 625-8, and the C&S firing pin fixed it.
The action on my gun had been lightened, which started the misfires with the factory firing pin. The longer C&S firing pin made it 100% reliable again.
I dry fire with fired cases in the gun, so far no problems.

allglock,

Not sure precisely when the change occurred, but it is believed the reason was to enable the guns to more dependably pass the California "Drop Test" certification to qualify the guns to be sold legally in the state of Calfornia.

The unfortunate result is the shortened pins (it is significantly more than .001-.002 BTW) resulted in frequent mis-fire problems as others have mentioned.

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Gunsmithing since 1961

here;s what I know about the "new" firing pins:

1) The shorter length has ABSOLUTELY NO EFFECT on ignition reliability since either the short or long pin protrudes the same amount in actualuse: it is stopped by the primer.

2) I think you can dryfire either, but the C+S pins are brittle and prone to break so they are nervous about it. SW told me theirs could be dry fired to infinity and not fail.

3) Unless somebody is making a lower-mass version of the pin out of titanium or some other lighter metal, I don't believe the pins can increase striking energy for a given spring force.

I think those guns need REPAIR. The stock pin will work perfectly assuming the gun is in good order and the pin is not defective in some way. Maybe if the gun had severely excessive headspace or end shake and the cylinder was too far forward, it might. I measured something in the ballpark of .040" maximum protrusion through the breech face with the stock pin which is more than enough to light a primer.

And, the C+S pins were too long in two of my guns and dragged on the primers. All the C+S pins I got had to be reworked to even be servicable.

bountyhunter is right about having to modify the Cylinder & Slide Firing Pins to get the serviceable
I've got one in my 342Ti with the lightest Wolff Springs & it has 100% ignition so far..
I had to chuck my C&S firing pin up in my dremel & shave .002-.003" off to make it the same diameter as the original before it would even fit in the frames hole, I then poished it with 1500 grit & mothers.
I read here at the forum of another company making an aftermarket firing pin that was tested but can't remember the details??
Here's the Link to the C&S Firing Pin.
Cylinder & Slide CS188 - Extra Length Firing Pin for New Style J - K - L -N Revolvers Price $11.50

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MightShowYouHisSmith&Wesson

I have a newer 586-7 7 shooter with an action job and ran into problems with light hits. I ordered another S&W firing pin to measure and compare with my factory firing pin. My two pins were identical, but I heard of reports of some runs of factory firing pins that were shorter in length. Mine were the longer spec pins, so that was good. I do remember cutting a coil or two from the firing pin spring. My action is around 5.5# and I only use Federal primers. I went from getting 2-3 light hits a clip (moon-clipped) to 100% reliability in matches with the factory firing pin. sorry, I can't remember if I polished the firing pin or the chamber in the revolver. Maybe by cutting a coil or two on the spring it helped?

Unless there are misfires, I would not consider putting in a new firing pin. That said, I put one in my 627-2 that was having misfires and have not had a problem since. I put a C&S firing pin in a new 686 that was having misfires out of the box with full strength springs. Not a problem since. Like rburg said, it depends on the gun.

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Richard Gillespie
FBINA 102