A local shop just took in a 686 no dash in perfect mechanical condition but with quit a bit of holster/handling wear, light scuffs and scratches. No box or papers. Could I please get an estimated price range? Thanks, Tom

A local shop just took in a 686 no dash in perfect mechanical condition but with quit a bit of holster/handling wear, light scuffs and scratches. No box or papers. Could I please get an estimated price range? Thanks, Tom

In this area they are going for between 300.00 to 425.00. I am assuming that it is a 4 inch or 6 inch.
The holster wear can be removed, the scratches can also be removed if not too deep.
I would check the endshake and such.

I just picked up a 686-4PP, 6 inch barrel in excellant condition for $434. The following "check list" may help your decision.

Grips / Sights

The size, shape and angle of the grip should fit your hand. When you bring the gun to eye level your eye
should be looking straight down on the barrel. The gun should not be tipped up or down. Having a gun that
points naturally is especially important for a gun that might be used for protection

Note the position of the rear sight on guns with adjustable sights. If it is way off to one side, suspect a
problem and ask to shoot the gun to verify accuracy before purchase. If the seller refuses, pass on the gun.

Barrel / Bore

It's important to check the crown on a barrel. If it has dings, or dents near the muzzle, then beware.
Look carefully down the external length of the barrel to see that it looks straight and there are no bulges. .
Don't buy any handgun if you suspect that the barrel (or the cylinder of a revolver) has been bulged.
Open the cylinder and look into the bore from both ends. Use a light. It should be clean with sharp rifling

Note the condition of the forcing cone at the back of the barrel. Slight erosion in this area, particularly on
magnum revolvers, is not cause for concern, but it should not be seriously eroded. The more erosion you see
the more the gun has been fired with heavy loads

Hammer

Be absolutely certain the gun is unloaded first
Check to see if a gun can fire if jarred or bumped. This can be tested easily by Whacking a revolver on its side
with your hand while the hammer is cocked Neither should the hammer fall off of full cock if wiggled on little with
your fingers or pressed gently forward with your thumb.
Check the tip of the firing pin, it should be smooth and rounded, not sharp or broken. The firing pin hole
should not be chipped or burred.

Revolver Timing

With a revolver, cocking the hammer very slowly will show if the rotating hand has become worn.
That's because the cylinder's locking bolt won't engage the cylinder's locking notches with the hammer
at full cock if the hand is worn. This is evident when the hammer is at full cock because the cylinder can be
hand rotated ever so slightly resulting in an audible "click" when the locking bolt pops up into place.
An even better test would be to put just a tiny bit of a bind on the cylinder with one thumb while cocking
the hammer. If timing is perfect it should still lock into place.

Cylinder

Check the cylinder gap. It should not exceed .010", and .006" is ideal. Cock the gun to turn the cylinder so that
every chamber, in turn, lines up with the barrel. The cylinder gap should remain constant
The crane of a cylinder should fit tight to the frame (when closed) without any unsightly gaps. If it doesn't the
crane may be sprung. When you wiggle the cylinder with your fingers the crane should barely move, if at all.
Check to make sure that the ejector rod has not been bent. Spin the cylinder, it should spin true.
Also, the bolt should not be dragging on the cylinder as it turns. If it does it will leave a clearly visible wear line.
in the cylinder's finish

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