Need Help with Takedown on S&W 686

[drgonzo]

I recently was handed down a Smith & Wesson 686 7 shot with 4" barrel. It is a bit older so it's pre-lock. I have the manual but am confused about what steps to go through in order to field strip it.

The reason being is that I've been keeping it in a safe for the last week and I opened it up today to find rust on the trigger and hammer. The rest of the gun (external) is stainless steel so it's not really affected but the aforementioned parts are. In the meantime I've dropped a bunch of lube down the hammer and cleaned it the best I could.

If anyone has one and has taken it down if you'd be polite enough with this newbie to give some instructions on the proper steps for takedown that would be awesome. Or if anyone has a link for the order of operation that they could send me it'd be much appreciated!

The closest pic I could find to my gun.

[stevieboy]

Generally, one doesn't "field strip" a revolver the way one might take down a semi-auto. The parts beneath the side plate are designed to stay hidden away nearly all the time and should not need regular cleaning. But, if you're determined to check out your gun's innards, the way to do it is to remove the side plate on the right side of the gun. You can access the main spring by removing the grips. And, you can remove the cylinder assembly by taking out the gun's front screw.

I am not the person to talk to about what to do after you've accomplished those things. There are people who regularly post on this site who know about working on a revolver's internals. I'll leave the advice to them.

Also, DO NOT pry the side plate off with a screwdriver. You can easily bend it that way, or, leave marks on the surface of the gun. The correct way to remove the sideplate is to remove the screws and tap on the opposite side of the gun with a rubber mallet or a piece of wood. That will pop the plate loose without damaging it.

[drgonzo]

Ok thanks. Now If I have noticed a bit of rust on my trigger and a bit on the hammer and have dumped a bunch of lube down the hammer and cleaned it as it comes out the trigger until I'm not getting any more rust residue.

Would it be safe to say it's cleaned out? It's only been rusting about three days but I'm just wondering if it would be worth the effort of going through the takedown if it's not going to be rusted inside anyways.

Btw, I have taken steps to see that this doesn't happen again. I bought some moisture absorbant stuff that will now stay in my safe.

[ken158]

stevieboy is correct when he says your revolver was not designed to be "field stripped". If you have been pouring oil inside, then I would believe it will gunk up at some time in the future. It probably does need disassembled and cleaned. Although it is fairly easy for someone that is experienced, there are a lot of tricks involved that would be too lengthy to detail here. Not sure where you are located but maybe near a forum member or even a gun shop that can do it and let you watch.

[Bullseye Smith]

I will try and tell you what to do, here goes.
1. Remove the grips
2. Take the three screws with a hollow ground screw driver that fits the screws.
3. take a wood hammer handle and holding the gun in your left hand with the inspection plate up.
4. Hit the grip frame (in the area where you can see the main spring and where the grip screw would go thur it), may take three or four times and the side plate will pop off.
5. the inside will look like this:

6. Remove the main spring.
7. Remove the hammer by taking it to about half cock and lift out.
8. Remove the hammer return spring (located above the middle screw, left of trigger).Use a small screw driver (best to put is a clear large bag so you don't lose the spring).
9. Pull the trigger back to half way and lift out.
10. Its time to clean .

[USAF385]

I wouldn't recommend it.

I've had my 681 for a while now, and still only open it up rarely and only when my uncle (a gunsmith) is there. Standard cleaning of the 686 is fine. I remove the cylinder every time, but that's not even necessary.

Clean your gun often, and once every year (or two) take it to a pro and have them do the inside if you really want it done. JMO

[alexcat]

The more you fool with the screws the worse they get. SW do not need alot of lube in the action . You could take the grips off and use a spray gunsrubber product or have it dunked in a cleaner. You can drop just a few drops of very good oil on the expose trigger and hammer thats enough. Less is better.

[Kevin G]

Perhaps a visit to a gunsmith to have your 686 cleaned and lubed might be a good idea. Kevin

[H Richard]

If you wish to "strip" the gun yourself, I would recommend obtaining the Video by Jerry Miculek on Trigger Job. It gives complete disassembly instructions, plus plenty of warnings of what not to do. As several have stated, the S&W is designed to run with minimal lube. Since you have dumped a considerable amount in the inards, I would recommend it be disassembled and cleaned out to keep it from gumming up. If you do not feel competitent with small tools and parts, please have someone who is trained do it. More S&W's have been damaged by well meaning owners.

[geoff40]

Based on what you're saying, I have to wonder if the rust on your trigger is really dried oil, which would be brown. It is difficult for me to understand how you could be watching a stainless hammer rust in 3 days without any rust showing up elsewhere on the gun.

[skeeterbait]

revolvers are a lot more complex than most people realize

[Lee in Quartzsite]

Watch this video. It's for the removal of the Internal Lock in a 640, but it will show you the proper way to remove the side plate. There are links to other videos there as well.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RVPYgohVCNM

I used this video to remove the IL in my 642...took me about 20 minutes.

[Titan]

That's a very well done video. Definitely going to my 'useful links' list.

.

[raincitywheel]

If you are new to taking apart revolvers, follow BullsEyeSmith's except:

1st, remove the front screw by the trigger and remove the entire cylinder assembly.

2nd, Stop at number 7. Even with a rebound spring tool, the trigger rebound spring housing is a real pain.