Has anybody ever heard of a lock failure with a modern classic model 36 or has this phenomenon, while very rare, been pretty much only associated with the aluminum and scandium frame lightweight guns?

I had a model 60 that was made shortly after they started using the stupid locks. I had a part break in it - the problem is I don't remember what it was! I was wanting to say it was the pawl but I'm not so sure that's right - it could have been a lock part. Anyways I sent it back to the factory, they fixed it I sold it.

Honestly, you'll probably have less chance of the lock failing you than other parts of the gun. I hate the lock and will always jump on the opportunity to bash them just because I hate their looks and what they stand for politically, however its not likely to fail. There has probably been very few documented cases of lock failure and it just so happens that because everyone hates the lock so much and this day and age of internet, the few lock failure stories get blown way out of porportion.....Trust me, I hate the lock but I don't have to fabricate or embelish a reason to hate it, I can simply say I hate it for its stupid looks!!

I experienced a lock failure with a 22-4 1917 shooting standard hardball ammunition. I don't think the failures are limited to any specific weight or cartridge. The lock is a poor design, so it fails sometimes.

The easy fix is to simply remove the flag. Its still ugly, but there is no chance the lock will fail and lock up the gun.

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Hello Cleveland, Rock and Roll

I agree. Remove the parts. No more worries.

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Centennial Every Day

It's one thing to have a firing pin break - you can't do away with the firing pin. It's quite another to ADD a possibility of failure. Why not TWO unreliable locks? or THREE?

Sorry - they're not the same. The lock is near useless (in some circumstances, not completely useless), certainly not necessary like a firing pin, and there is no excuse for having it on the gun if it isn't 100% reliable, which it certainly isn't.

I don't have to fabricate or embellish a reason to hate them either, my Model 60 had a lock induced fail to fire episode. It only happened one time, but once is enough. I still have the 60 and shoot it often, it's worked like a charm since the lock "fell" out...

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"Shall not be infringed"

Gents:

No IL failure problems in my revolvers but I have not shot thousands of rounds through them (yet). I intend to do a little operating soon and this brings me to make a shameless plug (pun intended) for one of our members.....

If you have not seen the thread in the Lounge forum, our own "Bullseye Smith", Entrepreneur Extraordinaire, now has lock hole plugs for sale in a variety of finishes to fill the void left by the hardware that "falls out". Price is very reasonable, too. He is running an ad in the Misc. category, also.

Chris

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/at least she finds me handy.

model520fan,


Not sure I am understanding you. I never said the lock is just like the firing pin or a needed part, I think you may have misunderstood me. I agree with you that its not needed and if you have the ability, by all means remove it.

The parts to the IL are very small and delicate. A simple fall to the floor could disable your gun. The parts have fallen out of the revolvers that I have worked on too.
(If you get mugged, it's possible you may fall on your weapon, or during the struggle a blow could occur to the gun)

That's why I placed the lock removal information on this board and on another, so users now have a choice if you want to live with it or disable it.

You now have the knowledge: FAQ's

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NRA Benefactor Member

I agree 100%, when i first got my M66-6 2-1/2" it felt good when i worked the action, but once I shot it the hammer would start to have a bit of drag to it, and I had FTF's.
I pulled the flag/locklug out and found that it was rubbing on the hammer all the time.
since i removed it, I have had 0% problems with it and now use it as a carry gun with confidence.

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M 686-3

ive been wanting to disable the lock on my 637...but my question is do you just remove the flag or grind down the nod on the flag? ive read that if you just remove the flag other parts may come loose? any truth in this? also what tool do i need to grind down the nod if need be?

Just remove the lock arm. The other parts won't fall out. If you decide to grind the nub off the flag, use a dremel, sander, file, etc. This nub is so darn small nearly any too will work.

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NRA Benefactor Member

this would be a good time to buy a dremmel been wanting one anyways

RW,

Sorry, I think my cut & paste was a bit sloppy. I guess I was reacting to I was trying to point out that the above comparison was not valid, since the other parts are necessary and the lock isn't. I probably misunderstood what you were getting at.

520

Thanks for the feedback. Well, after hearing of a failure on a mod 60, I believe I will just stick with pre-lock models for now. One less thing to worry about.

Removing the flag/luglock and the mini spring that goes with it is very easy and will not! make your internals of your gun to become loose.
the locking lug is part of the flag, remove it and you solve the problem.

I may be lucky, but my 629 Mountain Gun has never failed. That said, I will soon remove the thing as soon as I figure out a way to cover the hole and the slot in frame.

My M29 Mountain Gun had a lock problem. Would shoot fine with 44 specials and then feel strange and the cylinder would be hard to open with 44 mags.

I probably shot at most 2 or 3 hundred specials and 100 mags. Local smith removed the flags, grumbling about delicate parts in the IL mechanism.

Bill

Removing the flag/lug plate is easy and does not! I repeat does not! loosen any of the rest of the internal parts of your revolver.
here is a very close up pic I took of the hammer area with the flag removed.
the open slot looks bigger then it really is because i took the pic so close to the gun.
In reality it is hardly noticeable when you hold the gun at a normal distance from your eyes.
I have put 1500 trouble free rounds through this gun since I removed it and carry it daily.

Attached Images

FLAG SLOT.JPG (104.7 KB, 71 views)

Looks like a deserted oil well whole. Don

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"Don't worry be happy"

Gads... not this again....

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Doug "N Frame Addict"
CO

I've never had a lock failure with any Smith & Wesson revolver I've ever owned but then I've never owned one with a lock.

When did they start adding the locks? I recently purchased a late '60's mod 36, is this an issue I have to consider or was this before the began adding the locks?

Thanks

Thought I'd update this note as more is known about my problem.

With some .44 special ammo now available, I fire a box of specials and everything is great and with a box of magnums, I can't open the cylinder.

Back to the gunsmith who examines the small parts of the cylinder latch and polishes them lightly thinking there is a burr somewhere. While he is at it he removes the cylinder and the cylinder pin is bent slightly.

He finds that to be odd. Polishes that too and off I go, knowing I may still have a problem.

Back at the range the cylinder latch feels great and it shoots fine with specials. With a cylinder of magnums, the cylinder is jammed again.

FedEx just picked it up for a trip to Springfield.

Bill

Holmes, this is totally off the point of this thread, but I'm curious: what type of magnums are you putting through the gun? Have you considered the possibility that the problem isn't a gun problem but is an ammunition problem? I'd check to see how deeply seated the rounds are in your brass. Is it possible that you have a batch that isn't seated correctly? And, if they are correctly seated, do the rounds remaining in your cylinder remain seated correctly after you've fired one or two of them? Is it possible that the force of discharge is causing other rounds to jump their crimp, backing the brass up against the recoil shield and jamming your cylinder?